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Need to replace fresh water drain valves


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Hello. I'm new here and just purchased a 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit. The line drain valves that drain the fresh water system are leaking so I need to replace them. However, Winnebago doesn't make them anymore and the replacements they have don't fit. According to my original Winnebago parts catalogue, the original line drain valves had 1/2" F fittings. The replacement part that I was sent has 1/2" P fittings. They almost work, but the threaded plastic cap on my hoses won't screw onto the fittings on the line drain valve. I tried using the caps that came with the drain valve, but there is no way to secure the hose into the cap. It looks like I might have to replace all of my fresh water hoses but this seems like overkill and unnecessary. Maybe I could splice on some different hose ends that would work with the new drain valve fittings. Can someone suggest some solutions to this problem? I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

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thanks for the responses! a guy i talked to at winnebago suggested the same thing about the o-rings. i finally got the metal rings off (they were rusted) and extracted the o-rings. i am going to replace them tomorrow. i also had the thought of just cutting the valve portion out of the original fitting and then replacing it, like you did henry. both great suggestions! thanks.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hey there - I just drained the freshwater tank for the first time on my 91 Winnebago Warrior. The prior owner had filled the freshwater tank before the sale to demonstrate that pump, etc. were working properly. The thing is, once I pulled open the valve (ring on top) to the left of the pump below the lounge/couch, it started draining under the coach, which is great, but when I attempted to close it later while the water was draining, the water flow didn't stop. My guess is that the o-ring failed or popped out. I don't see the O-ring on the ground near the rig though. Any other thoughts? On another note, the manual shows that there are supposed to be 2 drain valves on this rig for freshwater, but I only find the one. Sounds from the above post that I can remove the ring on the top of the valve and push the assembly through the drain hose. I assume that it will simply fall out on the ground?

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In reply to this one, I did confirm that the valve will fall through the pipe if you remove the o-ring. Of interest is that this model has two valves near the freshwater tank and pump. I had only caught one and the other was still open.

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  • 1 month later...

rather than replacing the o-rings, since i was unable to find any that would fit, on the drain valves that are located under the oven and range, i just took the o-ring off and put a little teflon tape around the drain plug where the o-ring goes, then slid the o-ring back on. the teflon tape makes the o-ring "expand" to fit the drain tube better. however, one of the drain valves under the couch broke when i was trying to unscrew the lines from it. It's unusable now so it has to be replaced with something. if anyone has installed any replacement drain valves for a '92 itasca or similar model, i would love to know what you used. i'm still trying to piece it together without much luck so far. thanks.

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  • 9 months later...

Igive ball valves an a plus rating figgerd that is what i would use and i want to let you guys know there is a line of white compression fittings called flar it they work very well on the greay or the black tubing . my house is a double wide manufactored home and uses the same tubing that gave me exp fixing my rv plumbing. The flair IT fittings replace the old crimp ring fitings which are very problmatic .maybe not so much in rvs less preasure.

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PEX is the tubing for the job. the grey and black tubing POLIBUTYLEN IS no longer made. do too lawsuits never heard of big problems in the rvs but in manufactored homes many leak lawsuits. BUT THE REAL PROBLEM WAS NOT THE TUBING BUT THOSE ALUMIUM CRIMP RINGS on the old fittings are a constant cut out and change. the pex crimp rings are copper. plus i think over the years the plastic would shrink the never come apart but in the old mobile homes start spraying water for no reason. my 96 DOUBLE WIDE has the greay pipe but newer compression fittings never had trouble but my 2 kids 1970s homes a bunch.

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i thought the compression fittings i used were pex, opps. but they fit the pex as well as lots of other pipes with different outside measurements. my leak happened because of a failed fitting, clamp on type. i was lucky enough that i had enough excess line i could cut it out and replace with compression type fittings without adding hose. adding hose would have been easy enough, but one less thing for me to do :o)

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Hello. I'm new here and just purchased a 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit. The line drain valves that drain the fresh water system are leaking so I need to replace them. However, Winnebago doesn't make them anymore and the replacements they have don't fit. According to my original Winnebago parts catalogue, the original line drain valves had 1/2" F fittings. The replacement part that I was sent has 1/2" P fittings. They almost work, but the threaded plastic cap on my hoses won't screw onto the fittings on the line drain valve. I tried using the caps that came with the drain valve, but there is no way to secure the hose into the cap. It looks like I might have to replace all of my fresh water hoses but this seems like overkill and unnecessary. Maybe I could splice on some different hose ends that would work with the new drain valve fittings. Can someone suggest some solutions to this problem? I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

Hi! I had to replace all water lines in bathroom & kitchen except (knock on wood) incoming line from outside & around water pump under the couch, used from Lowes the white pex tubing ($25/100 ft), & the white push on fittings (very expensive if you need very many $4-$10 ea), but was really easy to work with!

For the drain valves under the oven by water heater I just T'd in a pc of pex thru floor & put a close valve on it. I had to replace the short pc of flexible hose goin from outside port to fresh water tank, naturally couldn't find the right size here, so forced the piece I could found at farm store onto it but think it leaked a little when filling tank, so if does this year I'm going to try the flexible wash machine hose, ( I refuse to take that couch out by myself again, darn near did me in!), I'm going to have my skinny neice shimmy under there.

So far I've only found one drain for fresh water tank & it is on outside, I'm going out there now to check for more under the couch!

Hope your repairs go good! TerrieO

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi! I had to replace all water lines in bathroom & kitchen except (knock on wood) incoming line from outside & around water pump under the couch, used from Lowes the white pex tubing ($25/100 ft), & the white push on fittings (very expensive if you need very many $4-$10 ea), but was really easy to work with!

For the drain valves under the oven by water heater I just T'd in a pc of pex thru floor & put a close valve on it. I had to replace the short pc of flexible hose goin from outside port to fresh water tank, naturally couldn't find the right size here, so forced the piece I could found at farm store onto it but think it leaked a little when filling tank, so if does this year I'm going to try the flexible wash machine hose, ( I refuse to take that couch out by myself again, darn near did me in!), I'm going to have my skinny neice shimmy under there.

So far I've only found one drain for fresh water tank & it is on outside, I'm going out there now to check for more under the couch!

Hope your repairs go good! TerrieO

I ended up replacing one of the drain valves under the couch that was leaking with a similar setup as you describe. Just used a T, a close valve and some pieces of pex to make it work. Pretty easy but I did have to drill a new hole in the floor for the drain tube exit, as the new setup would not allow me to use the existing drain hole.

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****Should there be low drains under the couch than just the one coming from the holding tank?****

The only drain valve I can find under the couch is a pc of that flexible white tubing like is used for sink or toilet water lines, it comes directly off side of holding tank at floor level & goes thru the floor to the drain handle on the side of the coach, then they have same type of line T'd off of that pc going to the water pump , coming out the other side of the water pump is the old grey line, (a few inches from the pump it T's to the wall to the outside water hookup), then runs under the elec converter then under sink, furnace & into water heater compartment, I didn't replace any of the grey line until water heater compartment as (knock on wood) it wasn't leaking yet,

BUT I could not find any other drains under the couch, ***Should there be?*** The 2 low level drains in water heater compartment were little T shaped handles that you have to pull up on were up against the wall by the shower pipes that were leaking, & I couldn't tell if they were leaking also so I had tried to replace them with pex pipe & fittings but the valves I could get are too large & both won't fit in that tiny place right (won't leave room for line to water heater which I hadn't got to yet when I prev posted above respnse) so I'm going to go back to the original drain valves (I kept them) & if I left enough tubing when I cut them out & they seal OK I'm just going to use them and pray hard they don't leak.

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