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1500 watt Inverter Install


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Boy oh boy. I certainly like the idea of an inverter but really never gave much thought on how significant the load can be. Right now I have an old 225 watt back-up unit that was used to power my computer during shut down when the power failed. I have the board on this unit wired to the coach battery and then the output wired to a dedicated outlet under the dinette. This unit should be fine for the Wifes laptop.

Like everyone, I am intriqued with having more power just in case. Think I would be inclined to mount any upgrade in the engine compartment. To keep it simple, at least in my mind, like Waiter, run a dedicated AC line to a couple of added outlets. Could I not gain a bit more flexibility in running 'off the battery' if I were to replace my standard truck battery with a deep cycle one. I know deep cycle is not designed for high discharge, but it does not seem to take much to turn over these 4 cylinder engines. I did some searching and did not find anyone starting their rigs with a deep cycle unit so my thinking must be askew. I would welcome your insights....... Thanks, Gerry

I for one LOVE Gerry's use of an old APC for this purpose* (*disclaimer I am an IT manager). With engine running it will probably have little problems providing clean power, but without it it was only designed for 45 minutes of use give or take; which oddly enough is all I get out of my 600-1200 watt inverter before it alarms and then ultimately kills the batttery if not shut off anyway.

The APC is superior because it will autoshutoff and can even shutdown the PC preventing loss of data and can be made to condition small SLA batteries and had a heads up display of thier condition; but will it run a drill? My concern with the APC would be what its continuous max watt rating is and my curiosity is does it have pure sine wave technology? I think the spirit of thier intended uses was for low wattage pc applications; but why stop there? Pure sine always trumps stepped in cleanliness. I am now eyeballing my old APCs...

http://nam-en.apc.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1356/~/the-use-of-non-computer-type-loads-with-a-ups-in-the-back-ups-line

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... Could I not gain a bit more flexibility in running 'off the battery' if I were to replace my standard truck battery with a deep cycle one...

Not really, This depends how the inverter is wired into the circuit. and that depends on how you plan to use it.

I believe you need to answer a couple questions, What will you use it for, When will be the main usage (stopped or traveling), How do you plan on re-charging the battery.

If you plan on using the the inverter while the truck is running, and mainly for heavy loads, then it would probably be better to wire it to the truck battery, but through its own isolator. If this is the scenario, you would most likely be upgrading the wiring and Alternator to support those high current loads. I think we had a member here that was using his high power inverter to charge Bike batteries while traveling.

I would guess that most people will use the inverter while stopped, and mainly for light loads. i.e. the computer or cell phone charger. with occasional heavy use, i.e. the microwave or coffee pot. The battery will be re-charged when the truck is running. This configuration will probably make up the vast majority of inverter installations.

Some installations that boondock for long periods may use "Solar Power" to re-charge their batteries. I simply hit the "Remote Start" button and run the truck for 15 minutes. (You can install a remote starter in your truck if you have Fuel Injection)

By wiring the inverter to the coach battery, you don't need to worry about running down the truck battery.

Important - The inverter draws a small amount of current, even when turned off. It will run down a coach battery in about three or four weeks. Currently, I disconnect the coach battery if I'm storing the MH for more than a few weeks. A better solution would be to add an Isolator solenoid to supply power to the inverter, maybe I'll do this in the summer.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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  • 4 months later...

Im copying most of what you have done

Im starting with this inverter

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003R7EGO4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

shooting for, 700 watt microwave and 500 watt coffee maker.

a laptop, kind of a gamer model is the main use though.

Im getting the wiring kit. Im also buying 2 deep cycle batteries.so ill have a little more capacity than you.

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You might be at / over the limit on the Microwave, if the 700 watt is a cooking power, not the microwave consumption power.. a 700 watt cooking would probably be around 1000 - 1200 watt consumption. Look for the data tag, it will list Voltage (probably 120) and Amps (probably 8 - 10). Multiply the Amps times the Voltage to get watts.

You will probably not be able to run the microwave and coffee pot at the same time. ALSO - After the coffee pot is done brewing, turn it off so the heater that keeps it warm is not running.

Keep the wires from the battery to the inverter as short as posible, I mean SHORT i.e. less than 24 inches.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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well most of the amazon customer reviews were using a 700 watt microwave.

It is about the smallest you can get to use a 700 watt microwave.

theres a review that says itt doesnt work with a 900 watt microwave.

the coffee maker Im not sure I have a half pot one.

There are 12 volt coffee makers

and theres a 12 volt recepticle in the back too so I could skip any inverter.

I would go about 10 to 1 that recepticle is meant just for 12 volt coffee makers.

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