flatspin Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 On an otherwise spectacular trip down at Kirk Creek campground south of Big Sur, CA this week, I managed to leave the fridge on just a little too long while we got things set up on an unfortunately steep campsite. Wow, that's a lot of ammonia. We wound up sleeping out under the awning half the night while the air cleared. It smelled like Mr. Clean had a rave in the back of the Sunrader. Which leaves me in the position to repair or replace the Dometic 2401. I see a bunch of options for replacement coils online, as well as some options for a newer (but not necessarily better) unit. Any suggestions on repair or replace? And is the coil replacement a reasonable driveway repair? Thanks all. -andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 Try these guys they have remanded units for $400 with a 2 year warranty complete replacement. http://rvfridgestore.com/dometic-cooling-units.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Sounds like it sprang a leak and most likely had nothing to do with level or not. The leak would have occurred even while level at some point. So don't beat yourself up over it. One consideration about a new complete refer is that its just a matter of sliding the old one out and the new one in. Replacing the cooling assembly is a far far bigger and longer job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatspin Posted November 27, 2010 Author Share Posted November 27, 2010 Sounds like it sprang a leak and most likely had nothing to do with level or not. The leak would have occurred even while level at some point. So don't beat yourself up over it. One consideration about a new complete refer is that its just a matter of sliding the old one out and the new one in. Replacing the cooling assembly is a far far bigger and longer job. Well, what I really wanted to hear was that replacing the cooling assembly was relatively easy. Ack. Any recommendations on the best options for a replacement unit before I open the wallet? Thanks -andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Well, what I really wanted to hear was that replacing the cooling assembly was relatively easy. Ack. Any recommendations on the best options for a replacement unit before I open the wallet? Thanks -andrew Not really. Just shop around for something that is the same size. If there is room above maybe a bit bigger unit. A new one is probably $700 and up plus shipping. That might make replacement of the cooling unit more attractive. Google for RV refrigerator repair and see what you get then give someone a call and ask the experts whats involved in swapping the unit out. If you have some mechanical skills it can be done. I know someone who did it with the refer in the isle and it was a pain for him, the cooling unit did not fit just quit the same and so he had to do some modifications to get it in and sealed where the freezer part inserts into the case. He had wished that he had taken the refer out of the coach. Most have to come out the passenger side of the truck with the seat removed. Here are some instructions on the cooling unit replacement. Read them and decide if its for you. http://www.rvcool.com/Dometic%20Instructions%201.htm It looks like the units go for around $400 plus shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatspin Posted November 27, 2010 Author Share Posted November 27, 2010 Not really. Just shop around for something that is the same size. If there is room above maybe a bit bigger unit. A new one is probably $700 and up plus shipping. That might make replacement of the cooling unit more attractive. Google for RV refrigerator repair and see what you get then give someone a call and ask the experts whats involved in swapping the unit out. If you have some mechanical skills it can be done. I know someone who did it with the refer in the isle and it was a pain for him, the cooling unit did not fit just quit the same and so he had to do some modifications to get it in and sealed where the freezer part inserts into the case. He had wished that he had taken the refer out of the coach. Most have to come out the passenger side of the truck with the seat removed. Here are some instructions on the cooling unit replacement. Read them and decide if its for you. http://www.rvcool.co...uctions%201.htm It looks like the units go for around $400 plus shipping. Hmmmm... That looks like quite a project, and one that could easily leave me in the hole 400 bucks and still needing a new fridge. Thanks for all the advice and resources. I'm thinking a new Norcold is pretty appealing at this point. Especially if we could make a slightly larger one fit. I'd have to deal with the heating duct work that currently goes underneath the fridge... -andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Aggie Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Before buying a new one come up with a plan to get the old one out and new one in. It won't be going through the coach door on a Sunrader. Removing the back window may be an option. You might be able to remove a front door and seat and go through there. Or you may decide that fixing the old one is a better option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 Which leaves me in the position to repair or replace the Dometic 2401. I see a bunch of options for replacement coils online, as well as some options for a newer (but not necessarily better) unit. Any suggestions on repair or replace? And is the coil replacement a reasonable driveway repair? I replaced mine from PPL motorhomes - they shipped to my RV lot - I had to remove the front seat (easy - 4 bolts) to get the old out & the new in, (Winnibago warrior). Your options are to change the cooling unit or the whole unit. When I shopped, it was only about $150 more for the whole thing. (I had a 2410, cost $629 + 125 shipping - the whole unit has to ship by truck, I think the cooling unit can ups). JI would call them & do the internet search. just found this http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-refrigerators/dometic-compact-refrigerators.htm Attached is a replacement chart I downloaded a few months ago. RefrigeratorsReplacementChart.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatspin Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 Which leaves me in the position to repair or replace the Dometic 2401. I see a bunch of options for replacement coils online, as well as some options for a newer (but not necessarily better) unit. Any suggestions on repair or replace? And is the coil replacement a reasonable driveway repair? I replaced mine from PPL motorhomes - they shipped to my RV lot - I had to remove the front seat (easy - 4 bolts) to get the old out & the new in, (Winnibago warrior). Your options are to change the cooling unit or the whole unit. When I shopped, it was only about $150 more for the whole thing. (I had a 2410, cost $629 + 125 shipping - the whole unit has to ship by truck, I think the cooling unit can ups). JI would call them & do the internet search. just found this http://www.pplmotorh...frigerators.htm Attached is a replacement chart I downloaded a few months ago. Thanks for this... The 2401 is a 3 way and the 2410 is just AC/Propane. I only ever use Propane on the road... is there any compelling reason for 12v? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Aggie Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Versatility. If you run out of propane you could use 12v to keep things cool while on the road. If you ever go through a high altitude area and your propane won't stay lit. If you ever travel north in the winter and your summer propane won't light/stay lit it buys you time to get winter propane. Are these things likely to happen? Not often. Is it nice to have the backup capability? I think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Thanks for this... The 2401 is a 3 way and the 2410 is just AC/Propane. I only ever use Propane on the road... is there any compelling reason for 12v? the 12vdc option only works when the engine is running - it is a high draw itmeem that will kill the cabin battery when the engine alternator is not online. That said it is a nice feature when you are traveling. My new frig uses very little propane so I just leave it unless i have the camper stored. I understand these things are rather sensitive to being kept level - otherwise the ammonia/ hydrogen gets trapped and after 5-15 minutes bad things can happen. the R717 (ammonia-hydrogen) is reputed to be very corrosive. If I have to leave mine unlevel I turn the frig off until we get underway again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpchoochoo Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 What I got from the RV shop person is that when unlevel the flow stops and this makes the anti-corrosive stuff start to crystalize which then blocks the plumbing up. Once crystalized it will never return to its proper state. I was told if you run it unlevel it's only a matter of time before it stops up. I then looked online some and it seems to be true. Good luck with getting it fixed whatever way ya go. Have great day GP the 12vdc option only works when the engine is running - it is a high draw itmeem that will kill the cabin battery when the engine alternator is not online. That said it is a nice feature when you are traveling. My new frig uses very little propane so I just leave it unless i have the camper stored. I understand these things are rather sensitive to being kept level - otherwise the ammonia/ hydrogen gets trapped and after 5-15 minutes bad things can happen. the R717 (ammonia-hydrogen) is reputed to be very corrosive. If I have to leave mine unlevel I turn the frig off until we get underway again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougj Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I know I'm late in the game here, but if you still need it fixed try Cranes refrigeration in Vallejo. Ca. They will have you out the door for 500.00 with a new cooling unit. took about 3 hours for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatspin Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 That is a compelling option. I will check it out. I love the good Dr. in Sacramento,but Vallejo is a lot shorter hike! Thank you kindly -andrew I know I'm late in the game here, but if you still need it fixed try Cranes refrigeration in Vallejo. Ca. They will have you out the door for 500.00 with a new cooling unit. took about 3 hours for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 The guys at Cranes are the best. Propane fridges are all they do and they do them well. Had mine done almost 6 years ago and it still works perfect Linda S y That is a compelling option. I will check it out. I love the good Dr. in Sacramento,but Vallejo is a lot shorter hike! Thank you kindly -andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatspin Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Not to mention 60 miles closer (x2 for a round trip) closer to my house. On the other hand, an excuse to go visit the good Dr. is compelling too decisions, decisions. And many thanks for the recommendations. Extremely helpful. andrew The guys at Cranes are the best. Propane fridges are all they do and they do them well. Had mine done almost 6 years ago and it still works perfect Linda S y Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 I ran our Sunrader reefer on 12vdc while travelling. I set up a lighting relay in the reefer compartment with a switch on the dash to turn it on and off. It was also connected to the ignition so the ignition had to be on in order to get power. I also ran a separate wire to the dash that brought power to a led. It was connected on the reefer side of the relay so I could see that the relay was actually supplying power in case it failed. And as someone mentioned using 12vdc will drain the battery quickly. Thus the relay and ignition only on option. The switch was for disconnecting the reffer in stop and go traffic where the engine does not generate enough charge to keep up with the reefer draw on 12vdc. Our Gulfstrean reefer does not have the 12vdc option. The pilot light has blown out on us a couple of times. I would like to have a way to monitor that the flame is actually on from the dash. If anyone knows of a flame sense circuit that will light up a led please post it. I am still looking for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatspin Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 I know I'm late in the game here, but if you still need it fixed try Cranes refrigeration in Vallejo. Ca. They will have you out the door for 500.00 with a new cooling unit. took about 3 hours for mine. The guys at Crane's are awesome (not to mention pretty entertaining). Refer is back online and fully operational. 2.5 hours and yer done. Quick just like that. Thanks to all who recommended this option. -andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Just an fyi and an old trick to make a dead fridge live provided it hasnt leaked out; pull it and run it upside down for half hour with 30 amp... Melts the crystals. Flip rightside and put back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I've seem many mentions of turning the fridge upside down and have read a couple. Haven't noticed any that say to actually run it while inverted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I've seem many mentions of turning the fridge upside down and have read a couple. Haven't noticed any that say to actually run it while inverted. pardon me, i meant run it for 30 minutes then flip it. the boiler needs to heat up the ammonia prior to inversion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Ah, in that case I'm glad I asked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman2020 Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 So....my fridge RUNS on both a/c & gas, gets chimney warm, but doesn't cool the fridge. Crystalized in the lines? You saying I can take it out, run it on 110 for a while to warm coils, unplug, turn upside down, let sit for half hour. ...and it may then work? Sure sounds better than service call to a shop, or replacing it. Appreciate your help, I'm new to this RVing and my first encounter with gas/electric fridges. Just bought the home and PO tells me he hasn't even run the fridge for a few years! Yikes! Also have a problem with my furnace fan not starting, even while plugged in to 110. My interior lites won't work when on 12 v only. They do work when plugged into 110. My wall monitor doesn't function at all either way. Could there be a problem with my voltage converter, not allowing juice to those things? All fuses are good, and I've found no loose connections. Thanks for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 actually I would run it on the propane for a while as it has a much higher heat output to the coils than the 110 but if 110 is all you can get at then that would beat 12 v. and yes let it run for a day then shut it off and "flip it as soon as you can" from what I have read you should get the fridge such that you can do a "dry run" test flip then do the heat up and flip process. the idea is just as you have postulated; the hot ammonia dissolves the plaque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 So....my fridge RUNS on both a/c & gas, gets chimney warm, but doesn't cool the fridge. Crystalized in the lines? You saying I can take it out, run it on 110 for a while to warm coils, unplug, turn upside down, let sit for half hour. ...and it may then work? Sure sounds better than service call to a shop, or replacing it. Appreciate your help, I'm new to this RVing and my first encounter with gas/electric fridges. Just bought the home and PO tells me he hasn't even run the fridge for a few years! Yikes! Also have a problem with my furnace fan not starting, even while plugged in to 110. My interior lites won't work when on 12 v only. They do work when plugged into 110. My wall monitor doesn't function at all either way. Could there be a problem with my voltage converter, not allowing juice to those things? All fuses are good, and I've found no loose connections. Thanks for any input. You have a few things going on there it would be better to post them separately . Good luck with the fridge. There must be a demand for heat for the fan to run, under your thermostat there is an on/off switch make sure it is on. Your power issue is most likely a stuck relay inside of the converter and the panel you'll have to check for voltage after you get the converter fixed. Best thing you can do with the converter is replace it with some thing modern you'll be glad you did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Your frig must be level or it will not work. It can take 30 to 60 minutes to start getting cold in the freezer.. Sounds like the coach battery is DOA. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kensandiego Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 So if you flip the fridge and it works again will this continue to happen? Do you have to flip it once or twice per year? Thank you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 So if you flip the fridge and it works again will this continue to happen? Do you have to flip it once or twice per year? Thank you!! I have never heard of this actually working. If you google it you will find that it supposedly works on fridges from the 70' s to early 80's. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.