nolan Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 For those in need. also note they give some torque specs on first page, the lugnut torque has always been a subject of debate, but it shows 170# YOW!!& #33;[attachment id=81] Attached thumbnail(s) For those in need. also note they give some torque specs on first page, the lugnut torque has always been a subject of debate, but it shows 170# YOW!! Click on the picture to enlarge, then click on arrow in lower right corner to enlarge again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picklebill Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Hi Nolan - On the paperwork that came with the 1 ton upgrade axle for our 18 foot Sunrader, it gives a figure of 140 Ft. Lbs. I have always tightened the lug nuts to this value and have had no problems - 170 Ft # does seem a little much. On a couple of unrelated subjects, there seems to be some confusion on the issue of lubrication of the rear wheel bearings on the Toyota full floating axle - do the bearings get lubed by the differential oil or do they need to be packed weith grease like the front wheel bearings? On my Ford P. U. (Dana full floater) Ford recommends that you coat a new bearing with grease which just serves to lube it until the differential oil gets to it. The other thing that concerns me is the brakes - in a panic stop, the front brakes lock up WAY before the rears. In fact, I cannot get the rears to lock up at all no matter what ( except with the emergency brake). I have adjusted the variable proportioning valve to the maximum rear brake cylinder pressure, and no difference. Do you know of anyone just removing the proportioning valve and if so, did it work? I have spoken with other Sunrader owners, and this seems to be a common problem. Thanks for any help on these issues. Best regards, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Yo Pickle. I hear you on that proportioning valve thing. Mine was leaking so I decided to just remove the stinking thing. I removed the valve and put a connector between the Prop valve supply line and the rear axle supply line. I then went up front and removed the "T" connection in the line at the right front wheel supply. I then connected the right front supply line to the rubber hose to the right front caliper. I just left the rear to front brake vent line from the Prop valve in the vehicle. Nothing in it. I was worried that the rear brakes would lock up before the fronts after the repair, so I panic stopped the vehicle from about 35-40 miles per hour on a gravel road. No loss of control, no rear wheel lockup. You don't want them to lock up ! On the rear axle question, the rear wheel bearings need to be packed like the fronts. The axle shafts do have a seal around them installed in the outboard end of the differential tube , sealing the differential lube in the rear axle housing. No lube from the differential is possible. Takes about a good 1/2 pound of grease per side in my experience to adequately pack the rear wheel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolan Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 Hi Bill, I know what you mean, the 170# lug torque seems a bit excessive, BUT thats what the factory service manual has stated so thats all I know about that I too don't torque mine that much either for what its worth and have had no problems. I know that some of the campers did have torque spec stickers above the wheelwells like you mentioned so maybe they no something Toyota don't. I suppose if a person was really after exact torqueing figures theres probably a formula for figuring out the correct torque with the bolt diameter, thread pitch, bolt alloy, ect. but I,m too lazy to go to that trouble until one falls off The prop valve is pretty much useless in my mind with the weight of the camper on the rearend, adjusting it to full pressure full time seems to work fine, I,ve never had any wheel lock problems either as Shoprat mentioned with his setup. Easy enough to do a little trial and error, unhook the rod, raise it to the full up position and maybe wire it in place for a trial run, if you have problems then start adjusting from there. The prop valve has a piston that moves up and down, the rod going to the axle controls the piston, when the rear is down and loaded the rod is pushing the piston up increasing brake pressure, in a hard brake situation, the nose dives down, the rear of the rig raises up, the rod pulls the piston down decreasing brake pressure, they worked reasonably well on a pickup that varied from loaded to empty in the bed, but figure a motorhome as a fully loaded pickup bed all the time. Again as Shoprat stated, the Toyota 1ton floater rear axle is a grease packed bearing setup, its similar in appearance to a 3/4 ton or bigger full size truck with the large axle hub, but the innards are built different and aren't gear oil lubed like the full size rigs. Now this is only my own observations from what times I have had them apart packing bearings. I keep thinking that one of these days when I have time I'll do a little more investigation into the idea. The axle tube has a seal that seals the axle shaft so gear oil can't get to the bearing area, but the way the bearing assembly is arranged with the other seal riding on the spindle section, just like the grease seal on a front wheel setup, provided it sealed well enough, and the axle hub on the other end was sealed, any gear oil in there wouldn't go anywhere. If the gear oil level in the axle housing was deep enough to provide adequate oil to the axle tubes and bearing area, no restrictions to keep the gear oil from flowing easily, removing the axle tube seal might make a oil lubed bearing setup quite easily. This is only an idea so anyone reading this proceed at your own risk. Ok enough of my rambling, later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Yo Nolan. I rolled the same question about the axle shaft seal / no oil bearings around in my head while I was packing the rear wheel bearings also. And I think came up with two answers. (1) If the inner hub seal fails with an oil lubed bearing, it goes directly into the brake area. I used to work on school buses and they had the oil lubed bearings. The main reason the inner hub seal failed was the rear axle vent would plug from road dirt and not allow the air expansion from heat to escape. The resulting pressure would blow the seal, and Voila, oil saturated brakes. (2) The axle shaft seal also acts as an insurance policy to keep water out of the differential area. Just a couple thoughts . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picklebill Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Thank you both very much for the great info regarding the brakes and rear axle. There is a local specialty shop here that builds custom and race cars from the ground up and I will take our rig to them for the proportioning valve removal. I do alot of the work on our rig myself, but modifying the brake system I'm not comfortable with. I guess I have the wheel bearing packing job to look forward to. Since I have no manual that covers the Toyota full floating axle, can you guys tell me how often you have to repack the bearings? Okay, heres one last question - is there a way to look at the back brake shoes for wear without pulling the hub/drum assembly? Our old VW camper had a slot in the backing plate that had a rubber plug that you removed and you could look at the edge of both shoes. I have looked on the Toyota but nothing is obvious. Thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Yo Pickle. As far as to how often to repack wheel bearings, I would say you could do it every 60-70 thousand miles. I have seen bearings go 100 thousand with no trouble. Frankly, just pack 'em every brake job, they'll probably be fine. As far as the inspection port thingy, I don't remember seeing one on my Sunrader either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom and Katz Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Could someone post these again, please. It looks like this is an old thread and they are no longer hosted. Thanks in advance, Katz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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