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The Simple Fix for worn extension housing bushings?


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Bodybagger - you said "The thing I would do before your trip is get under it and yank side to side on the yoke coming out of the transmission and check for a worn extension housing bushing! If it wiggles side to side even a little bit, DO NOT go on your trip until you get the simple fix"

Did I find The Simple Fix in the sticky for The A43D Automatic Transmission? Spungo says:

"I'd pull that asscone every few years as part of routine maintenance. Drop the driveshaft, pull the speedo, six bolts holds the tail on. The bushing only costs a few bucks, cuts out easily with a hacksaw blade (large oil channels under it make damaging the bore a nonissue), and presses in easily. Make sure you line up the oil hole just right. A shop shouldn't dream of charging more than $100 to do the whole thing, or $20 to press the bushing. If the bushing looks really bad, check the driveshaft and u-joints"

I just replaced a bad front u-joint, and I Do have some slop in the output shaft. Obviously needs the bushing.

Is this bushing located in the extension housing itself? We are not talking about the oil seal, are we? I have no oil leaking. The diagrams in the Toyota manual do not clearly show any bushings for the extension housing.

Just looking for a bit more info before I tear into the housing. It may be obvious when I get there...

Thanks.

John

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Yes there is a bushing in the tail shaft housing. Get a new seal too it has to come out to replace the bushing.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Simple, of course, turns out to be relative.

The bushing actually rides on the outside of the U-Joint Hub's shaft. I was expecting something on the output shaft itself.

Shaft measures 38.00 mm. Old bushing measures 38.30 mm. New bushing, before installation shrinkage, measures 38.15 mm. Alas, I do not have proper tool to reach down to measure the bushing once it was installed.

Teardown:

1. Drain tranny oil.

2. Drop drive shaft.

3. Speedo housing bolt. Pull speedo gear, wrap in baggie.

4. Support tranny. (Getting the tranny jack last year has paid off several times now. Many uses.)

5. Remove rear tranny mounting bracket. 8 bolts.

6. 6 bolts on extension housing. 4 long, 2 shorter.

7. Breaking the seal was a bit stressful. Whacking around the output end with a soft hammer did the trick.

8. Pull out the oil tube and rubber bushing. The tube holder ring is staked in, so scrape off enough of one attachment to be able to wiggle it out.

9. Outside of the oil seal is a thin metal cap/disk covering a fiberous washer. It will come out with the oil seal.

10. Drive out the oil seal/washer/cover with a long (aluminum) drift.

11. A hacksaw blade would probably work for getting the bushing out. I used a punch and hammer, back and forth down the oil grooves. (Many small hits are better than fewer big hits.)

12. Clean, clean, cleaner.

Re-assembly:

WARNING: Toyota changed the design of the replacement bushing (also now $46.33). Before, the oil groove was bi-directional. Now it goes one way. Probably the other way. Got rushed, and did not think it through enough until later... This all may have been practice... OK, looking at the timing marks, BTDC is to the Left of the TDC mark, so looking aft, the driveshaft is going Clockwise. So looking at the front end of the extension housing, I need the oil groove going Clockwise, oil hole at the top and the groove going down the Drivers side. Counterclockwise looking from the back end, groove going to the Left... Yep, I have it backward. Maybe. So:

1. Set the extension housing in front of you. Line up the oil hole in the bushing with the appropriate top oil slot. Have the oil groove in the bushing going down Counterclockwise as you are looking at it.

2. Drive/Press the bushing into the housing. (Very Carefully. Do Not Ding Up the Bushing. Another good use for the hydraulic press. So glad I got that a couple years ago.) Re-check your oil hole alignment as soon as you get it started. You will Not be able to adjust it's position. Press it flush.

3. Drive/Press the Oil Seal into the housing. (This you can tap in with an punch and hammer if you are careful.

4. Install the fiberous washer and it's cover.

5. Re-stake the oil tube holder with a dull chisel. Just enough that it will not fall out.

6. Insert the oil tube and rubber bushing.

Re-Installation:

0. Test fit the new bushing/housing on the Drive Shaft BEFORE you re-install the housing. (That may have helped me later.)

1. Permatex #2 for re-sealing the gasket. (gas/oil resistant, unlike RTV) Just a thin layer - mine came off pretty cleanly.

2. Tighten the 6 bolts in a crossing pattern.

3. Re-install the mounting bracket. I had to run a tap through one hole that was being stubborn. Pull the jack.

4. Re-install the speedo gear. I was able to undo the speed cable at the weird cruise control fitting, to be able to move the gear so it would mesh. Probably could have turned the output shaft too. Whatever.

5. Lube the splined shaft. Lube the outside sliding surface of the drive shaft with lots of tranny fluid.

6. Slide the drive shaft into the housing. The new bushing will make this a much tighter fit. Here is where your bushing installation skills will be graded. Any ding or mushroomed edge will make this major. See step 0.

7. Finish drive shaft installation.

8. Add tranny oil to Cold levels. Check after all is warmed up.

Startup:

Since I am not a machinist and do not have an adjustable hone, I had a tight fit between the drive shaft and the bushing. So, I drove around a bit at Very Slow Speed, to let the bushing get used to the drive shaft gently. Checking the temp's of the housing has shown that so far, I may have not scr.....d this up.

The drive shaft no longer has the slop at the front U-joint.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Just curious. I am having the same bushing problem on my 1985 Toyota Bandit. The trans guy said that this was a common problem with the toyota campers and that replacing the bushing would fix the problem short-term and the bushing would just wear out again unless I replaced the case and part of the shaft. Has anyone who just replaced the bushing found this to be true? He is also said it would be extremely hard to find the parts. Sadly it seemed like he knew what he was talking about and had dealt with Toyota campers quite a bit in the 90s. Any info would be much appreciated.

I found the invoice for the bushing.

Toyota part # 90999-73139 BUSH,BIMET $46.33

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello if anyone needs a rear trans bushing try this company, I did and got parts in two days bushing $2.19 plus shipping. A CHEAP PRICE WILL SEE IF ITS THE RIGHT ONE , Transmission Parts USA

2715 Crag Street

Fort Myers, FL 33901- Phone: 239-790-5401

so far so good a little over 3,000 miles and seems fine no leaks

take care RICHARD

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  • 8 years later...

Richard is correct, as a former Transmission Shop Owner, now retired........if you pay more than 3 or 4 bux for this bushing, you are getting hammered..Federal Mogul or one of their subs make a LARGE % of these aftermarket bushings..........donnie

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  • 2 years later...

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