Bone Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 1. I take the wheels off. 2. Remove the bolts off the axle cover. 3. ??? How does the cover and the axle come off now that the bolts are off? 4. Or just how do i change the axle seal that is leaking? Thanks Tom H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 The axle has small tapered cones that are behind the nuts they can be a bugger to get out. Try tapping on the edge of the axle next to the studs often that is enough to pop them out. If it's any thing other then the paper seal on the axle leaking the bearings and the entire hub/drum assembly has to come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bone Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Thanks for the info. Tom H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COYota Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Hi Tom, Removing those cone washers can be a booger. Mine had been painted over and were essentially glued in place. I ended up needing to tap around the outside edge of them with a chisel and hammer until they popped loose. Be aware that when they come loose they may go flying off to parts unknown. I lost two of them 'cause I didn't watch them close enough. I was going to replace all of them with new until I found out that the Toyota dealer wanted about $5 each for them. -Brad The axle has small tapered cones that are behind the nuts they can be a bugger to get out. Try tapping on the edge of the axle next to the studs often that is enough to pop them out. If it's any thing other then the paper seal on the axle leaking the bearings and the entire hub/drum assembly has to come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bone Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 Hi Tom, Removing those cone washers can be a booger. Mine had been painted over and were essentially glued in place. I ended up needing to tap around the outside edge of them with a chisel and hammer until they popped loose. Be aware that when they come loose they may go flying off to parts unknown. I lost two of them 'cause I didn't watch them close enough. I was going to replace all of them with new until I found out that the Toyota dealer wanted about $5 each for them. -Brad Any one know what size the 2 service bolts are?? These are the bolts you screw in to get the axle to come out. Thanks Tom H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 I just looked at mine it's 6MM and only has one. Don't expect it to pull it out if you just crank on it, it probably will brake but it sure can help you along with a hammer and patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COYota Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Not sure what size the bolts are, but once the cone washers are out, you may not even need to use them. If you haven't gotten the cones out, you can crank on those bolts all you want and the axle's not moving. Brad Any one know what size the 2 service bolts are?? These are the bolts you screw in to get the axle to come out. Thanks Tom H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdrhound Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Success!!! I got three cone washers out! Failure !!!!!!!!! No way the other nine are coming out. Yes, the first one popping out was encouraging. Kind of like that one good golf shot - you learn that you Can do it. But it is not to be repeated often. By now, I have pretty well deformed the tops of the washers. Since I am doing this as the 103K mile rear brake job, and I have just started to hear a bit of brake noise, I have no choice but to get them out. I can not put this off any longer. Even SiliKroil has failed. Heat gun - no effect. Dig out the drill motor, 1/8" bit and 1/4" carbide tip bit. Amazing how easily the cone washer popped out after the stud was drilled through. A call to Toyota: A full set of cone washers and studs are arriving Friday. About $75. Drilling out the other eight tomorrow. Not expecting them to all go as well, but there is an exit path after all. I feel hopeful. I have been wanting to see these brakes for a long time. Should be fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 My trick on the cone washers is to put a socket (like a 14mm) over them and give the back of the socket a medium hit and the cone washer will usually pop out and land inside the socket (vs on the ground)... Sometimes the last cone washer might need a heavy hit or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdrhound Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 This is probably a bad by-product of thousands of miles on snow/ice/salt/solution covered roads. Really well bonded. Successfully got all the other studs drilled and all cones out. Amazingly, with 103K miles on the brake shoes, they were worn less than one millimeter. Still had an even 4+ mm of shoe. So it was the cylinders leaking that was the source of the lower level in the tank, not worn shoes. Oil all over the plates and shoes. Back together tomorrow. Have to be ready to go to Dunderberg Peak for October patch skiing this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdrhound Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Marithon day. Installed the new LH stud I have had in the toolbox for three years. Nowhere have I seen anything about having to grind down the staked portion of the stud. Not difficult with the Dremel, but not expected. The horizontal press made the swap easy. Should have gotten that tool years ago. My lady picked up the studs (1.74) and cones ($3.99), I had her get the axle gaskets, too ($1.74). The other gaskets have been with that stud, waiting. All the bearings look fine. Cylinders and brakes went on OK. Have not figured a good way to get the parking brake lever off of the cable. Was easier on the other side to leave it on the cables and do the lever swap right there. The leaf spring brackets are just in the wrong place. Can not see the slot, Tightened them by feel. Need just a bit shorter screwdriver... The only problem during the road test was my failure to reduce the air bags back to 45. They ride like a rock when they are are at full maintenance height pressure. Those couple inches make the jobs much easier. At last, I have seen my rear brakes. I feel better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 A handy tip to all trying this (cone washers are on 4wd front locking hubs as well) DO NOT BEAT ON THE EDGE TO POP THEM OFF - sorry if I offend anyone on this subject but you can ruin the seal the flange/hub bolts to. This is how to remove them when "frozen" in place, (similar as above advice using a 14mm socket) and it will work every time, get a 5/8s or larger BRASS drift (a brass rod) then place drift againt stud as if you were trying to drive it in deeper and tap progressively harder and it will pop off and be kept in place by the drift. Whacking the side of that flange will dent /deform and possibly crack it. The cone washer is an excellent design and does a great job. It is what transfers all the torque from your axleshaft to that massive brake drum and dual tires to get you rolling. Just those six studs and 2 pins transfer all that torque to all that weight.....see why you dont want to dirrectly whack the flange? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 if you look around there are several threads on this forum on this subject. Several have links to the toyota manuals which are quite useful. If you squirt wd40 (or similar) into the stuck cones & let it sit then strike the sides of the axle at the cones they will come out - if you are sitting there have eye protection on, if not have something there to stop them from taking off to parts unknown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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