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Hi everyone,

I just bought an 84 dolphin with the 22R engine. I'm really happy with it, but I don't understand how the electrical is supposed to work. First of all, the only way there is power in the back right now (interior lights, furnace blower, etc) is if the ignition switch is turned on (the position for starting the motor). This isn't right is it? In accessory position the radio and cigarette lighter in front have power, but nothing in back.

Secondly, I'm having charging issues. I put a new, tested alternator in it and I'm still not getting 13.5 or more like I should. I had the starter battery charged and tested and it's fine. Even if I put a tester right on the red alternator pole, it just shows 12.5v and less as the battery drains. I'm going to take it to a mechanic this week if I don't solve it soon.

Thanks,

John

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hi john,

i have an 84 phoenix so i think i can start you on your journey. I too have the no charging issue in my rig, i bought an alternater that was no good first and no difference, took it to the mechanic and he found that the fuse on the passenger side under hood fuse block did not have power/wiring issue so he jumped it from another source to the affected fuse slot. he then told me my alternator was bad so i took it back and bought another one. at this point i had them test it before i bought it and they read 15.5v. once i installed it and started it up i was getting 15.5v at the battery, you should typically see between 13.5 and 14.5, any higher and you boil your battery and it dies. The 1984 toyota 22r has (at least on mine) an external (from the alternator) voltage regulator on the driver fenderwell, I just ordered a new one today, hopefully that will get it to the proper voltage AND turn off the brake and charge lights that are on when the engine is running.

As far as the wiring in the coach only working when the key is on.... do you have a coach battery bank? if you have a battery isolator under the hood try disconnecting it from the isolator, if everything does not work at this point I think you really need to look into where the coach battery is or was and see if there is a place to connect a house battery. in my phoenix in the rear of the coach on the passenger side there is what looks to be generator5 or battery compartment with a locking door accessed from the outside. I had to rewire over half my coach electric and I also added a bunch of 12v syatems as well as solar panels and a mppt charge controller. my swamp cooler runs off the solar panel alone in the day time.

regards,

rick

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John,

Your coach seems to be wired wrong, under no circumstances should the rear be hooked to the truck battery especially through the ignition switch. The truck battery and the coach battery are hooked to a common point which is the isolator, either solid-state or mechanical solenoid. This allows your alternator to charge either or both batteries and isolates so that the coach battery does not discharge the truck (starting) battery and vice-versa. Everything in the rear is connected to the coach battery for 12 VDC. If you're hooked into shore power the 120VAC powers your 120VAC outlets, roof air, etc and is converted to 12VDC to power all of your 12 VDC appliances in back and saves your coach battery from being discharged. You should be able to sit in the back and have lights, etc without ever having to put your key into the ignition switch.

I have attached a link to a typical coach wiring diagram (this happens to be a Winnebago but all are similar): http://tinyurl.com/yjqxs58

It sounds like the problem is somehow around the isolator and maybe a missing coach battery?

Good luck,

Allen

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Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it. I do have two batteries. One is obviously the truck/starter battery and one is a deep cycle marine battery. They're both under the hood. I'm guessing you're right and the isolater and possibly the regulator as well are shot. Although I didn't think these things had external regulators. Thought that was integrated into the alternator. I'm probably going to want to add another battery in one of the rear compartments. going to add solar as well.

The truck is also hard to start when cold. I have found the trick is to hit the gas pedal once before trying the ignition. Must be some sort of fast idle or choke issue. I need to get a good repair manual.

Thanks again for the hints,

John

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Like doktasoohs said if the only way you can get power to the back end is turn on the key there is some thing wrong with the coach battery or connections for the coach battery you are feeding the back end through the isolator from the truck battery. The isolator is doing it's job if turning the key on gives you power in the coach it means its working but your coach battery is not for some reason. If the alternator is not working neither of the batteries will charge, the isolator connects them together only when the keys is on. You have a relay type isolator other wise you would not get power to the coach by turning the key on. My guess your coach battery is toast or the connections are dirty the back end is not working off that battery that's where you need to start try switching the batteries. As far as the regulator it depends when your truck was made some where in that range they went to internal regulators.

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  • 10 years later...

Does anyone know what the little 2 post block is mounted inside driver fender well. The #8 wire from the 3 terminal switch is landed here on 1 side and then a separate #8 wire goes from Second block to the coach battery. I have power from the switch to block but not from block to coach battery. The diagram from dolphin owners manual does not show this block, it shows a continuous wire from terminal switch to coach battery. 

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