Gulfstream Greg Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 My speedometer decided to die on me. Started making this whining noise and reading 80 when I was doing 40. So in need of replacement I decided to see if it was possible to convert to a gauge cluster which had a tachometer. I took my cluster with me to a local wrecking yard and pulled a tach cluster from a 1991 4Runner with an automatic. The non-tach assembly has 4 plug in connectors on the rear. Comparing the 4Runner side by side the 4Runner has the same exact connections. Looking good so far! So I bought the cluster and brought it home, plugged in all the connections and I had a working Tachometer. Oh ya you read it correctly, it works. I connected up the rest of the cables to the dash parts (ECT, Hazard, dash light dimmer) and found that everything worked just fine. ECT light came on, direction signals, over drive etc all worked. I then took it for a test ride and discovered something missing. There are no park, drive neutral etc lights in the tach cluster. The 4Runners have the shifter on the floor and that is where the associated symbols are. Also the tach cluster has an oil pressure gauge which also is non op. My guess is the sensor I have on the engine is the wrong kind (old dash just has a warning light I think) or there is a different connection and sensor that I will need to find and rectify. Any how I will have to research that. As for the park drive neutral lights I compared the circuit boards of the tach and non tach cluster. The tach cluster has the plug-in for the harness but no related circuitry like the non tach (lights etc). So using the non tach as an example I was able to see how each contact on the connector connects to the associated lights. On the circuit board each is labeled P N R D 2 L. There are also two diodes and a resistor in the circuits. I will post a schematic later. I took some cat5 cable and soldered a wire to each of the connectors (6 in all) on the circuit board. That's as far as I have gotten. I do not know if the connector is supplying power or ground to activate the lights. I left my multi tester at work so I can not test what's there in park drive etc. But the diodes that are in the circuit are in the direction of supplying power to the lights. So my plan is to build a separate small light box for the park drive etc lights and mount it on the dash somewhere. I am going to supply grounding from the chassis and not the cluster as I am unsure what would be ground on the cluster. I am also kicking the idea around of having a single led readout that changes to the appropriate letter for each gear. That will be more difficult than 6 separate lights except that with 6 separate lights that has to be built also with letters that are back-lit possibly with different colored leds. I will post some pics and more info probably tomorrow eve when I get my multi tester in hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 The older Toys have the gear indicator in the steering column. If you could make yours small enough it would be good there too. How about a floor shift??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Thanks. That could be useful info for me some day. Just an idea, and I don't have the two panels in front of me, but would it be possible to cut the needed lights from the old panel and graft them on to the new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 The older Toys have the gear indicator in the steering column. If you could make yours small enough it would be good there too. How about a floor shift??? I think the steering colum is the best choise as dash space is limited. As for a floor shift way too much work to change out all the linkage and I have a couple of 2way radios in that area. Thanks. That could be useful info for me some day. Just an idea, and I don't have the two panels in front of me, but would it be possible to cut the needed lights from the old panel and graft them on to the new one? Not enough room in the tach cluster and much of the lower area is allready filled with other info lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COYota Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Hi Greg, I'm planning to do the same swap on my Sunrader once it gets to the top of the priority list. You are correct about needing a different oil pressure sending unit. The one for the idiot light is pretty much just an open/closed switch. The one for the guage sends a variable voltage. Unfortunately, from what I've heard, connecting the analog gauge to the idiot light sender will fry the gauge. I've seen several sets of instructions for this swap floating around the web. There's a pretty good one here: http://yotatech.com/f116/sr5-gauge-cluster-swap-how-pics-179106/ Brad '84 Sunrader 180RD FtC CO My speedometer decided to die on me. Started making this whining noise and reading 80 when I was doing 40. So in need of replacement I decided to see if it was possible to convert to a gauge cluster which had a tachometer. I took my cluster with me to a local wrecking yard and pulled a tach cluster from a 1991 4Runner with an automatic. The non-tach assembly has 4 plug in connectors on the rear. Comparing the 4Runner side by side the 4Runner has the same exact connections. Looking good so far! So I bought the cluster and brought it home, plugged in all the connections and I had a working Tachometer. Oh ya you read it correctly, it works. I connected up the rest of the cables to the dash parts (ECT, Hazard, dash light dimmer) and found that everything worked just fine. ECT light came on, direction signals, over drive etc all worked. I then took it for a test ride and discovered something missing. There are no park, drive neutral etc lights in the tach cluster. The 4Runners have the shifter on the floor and that is where the associated symbols are. Also the tach cluster has an oil pressure gauge which also is non op. My guess is the sensor I have on the engine is the wrong kind (old dash just has a warning light I think) or there is a different connection and sensor that I will need to find and rectify. Any how I will have to research that. As for the park drive neutral lights I compared the circuit boards of the tach and non tach cluster. The tach cluster has the plug-in for the harness but no related circuitry like the non tach (lights etc). So using the non tach as an example I was able to see how each contact on the connector connects to the associated lights. On the circuit board each is labeled P N R D 2 L. There are also two diodes and a resistor in the circuits. I will post a schematic later. I took some cat5 cable and soldered a wire to each of the connectors (6 in all) on the circuit board. That's as far as I have gotten. I do not know if the connector is supplying power or ground to activate the lights. I left my multi tester at work so I can not test what's there in park drive etc. But the diodes that are in the circuit are in the direction of supplying power to the lights. So my plan is to build a separate small light box for the park drive etc lights and mount it on the dash somewhere. I am going to supply grounding from the chassis and not the cluster as I am unsure what would be ground on the cluster. I am also kicking the idea around of having a single led readout that changes to the appropriate letter for each gear. That will be more difficult than 6 separate lights except that with 6 separate lights that has to be built also with letters that are back-lit possibly with different colored leds. I will post some pics and more info probably tomorrow eve when I get my multi tester in hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Will the tach/spedo etc. fit in the old cluster? I'm thinking the board is the same for the instruments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Hi Greg, I'm planning to do the same swap on my Sunrader once it gets to the top of the priority list. You are correct about needing a different oil pressure sending unit. The one for the idiot light is pretty much just an open/closed switch. The one for the gauge sends a variable voltage. Unfortunately, from what I've heard, connecting the analog gauge to the idiot light sender will fry the gauge. I've seen several sets of instructions for this swap floating around the web. There's a pretty good one here: http://yotatech.com/...ow-pics-179106/ Brad '84 Sunrader 180RD FtC CO I don't think it will fry the gauge but who knows. Not even sure its using the same circuit. I will investigate more. Will the tach/spedo etc. fit in the old cluster? I'm thinking the board is the same for the instruments. The cluster is the whole enchilada. One comes out and the other goes back in. As far as the same circuit, yes it gets the info from the 4 different harness plug-ins, same pin-outs as the original cluster except for the gear lights which do not exist circuit wise on the tach cluster. When I post some picks it will be more clear. The instruments and lights are laid out in completely different geographically on both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 OK I guess that answers that thought maybe the tach etc. might fit the old cluster. I would not worry about the oil gauge it will go full scale when you start the engine with out the resistive pressure sender but it should not harm it just unplug it until you get the new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Aggie Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 My brother recently did a successful swap of an SR5 cluster with tachometer into his 1990 4x4 22RE 5-speed pickup. I'm not sure which set of directions he used but it did specifically say DO NOT even install the dash without first unhooking the old oil pressure sensor. The writeup also talked about some trucks having the tach wire in them and some not having it. He got lucky and had the wire. He swapped the oil pressure gauge, swapped the cluster (after replacing all the bulbs as preventative maintenance), fired the truck up and all worked well. I left out that his donor was from a 6 cylinder and there is a toggle switch that had to be flipped to work on the 22RE. Just confirmed he used the same instructions as previously posted. I believe he purchased his cluster from a member of the Yotatech forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 My brother recently did a successful swap of an SR5 cluster with tachometer into his 1990 4x4 22RE 5-speed pickup. I'm not sure which set of directions he used but it did specifically say DO NOT even install the dash without first unhooking the old oil pressure sensor. The writeup also talked about some trucks having the tach wire in them and some not having it. He got lucky and had the wire. He swapped the oil pressure gauge, swapped the cluster (after replacing all the bulbs as preventative maintenance), fired the truck up and all worked well. I left out that his donor was from a 6 cylinder and there is a toggle switch that had to be flipped to work on the 22RE. Just confirmed he used the same instructions as previously posted. I believe he purchased his cluster from a member of the Yotatech forums. I have the new sender for the oil gauge but #$#@ if I can get to the old one to remove it. I do not have a socket the right size nor can I get a crescent or pliers on it. I have been trying to do it from the front with the alternator bracket removed. Chilton's says through the side wheel well. We are going on a short trip so it will be with out the oil gauge this trip. My plan is actually to have both sensors and use the original as a switch to set off an alert buzzer. On another note I have put together the P R N D 1 L lights and mounted it to the steering column. One thing I am looking forward to is the trip odometer in the new cluster. I will post some pics of the whole thing maybe this week while on our trip if I can get WiFi somewhere. Until then, Hitting' the road with the new cluster! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted August 17, 2010 Author Share Posted August 17, 2010 I finally got the oil sensor replaced. Had to pull the alternator to do it. And I can verify that if you leave the old sensor connected and turn on the ignition it will blow the oil press gauge. So make sure you pull the wire loose from the old sensor before you apply power. Lucky for me I had two clusters and was able to replace the gauge. I now have a working oil pressure gauge. I promise to post some pics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 Here are some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Lookey what I found for a winter project.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 What is it out off?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 What is it out off?? Toyota T-100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 Does it look like it'll fit in the earlier pickup dash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Does it look like it'll fit in the earlier pickup dash? Yes, it looks like it will be a direct swap, all connectors are the same. I'll be changing over the speedometer to metric, then I'll swap the oil pressure sender, and install it to test some time soon (Soon with kids = within a month I hope ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 Lookey what I found for a winter project.... I like that, much better idea than building a separate gear light box. Yes, it looks like it will be a direct swap, all connectors are the same. I'll be changing over the speedometer to metric, then I'll swap the oil pressure sender, and install it to test some time soon (Soon with kids = within a month I hope ) You could just pull the wire from the sensor for testing. Its not an easy swap out. I considered putting in a tee and running both sensors with an added idiot light in the cluster somewhere or a blinking red led. Might even be possible to have the led shine through the gauge and even maybe add a buzzer. Let us know how the dash and gear lights work out. I may be looking for one myself now. How much did that one cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 I paid $20 from ebay (I screwed up on the shipping so i had to pay $30 just for that) I got one from a 1998 T-100 because I'm planning on a newer engine, but they are also available from 1993 and 1994 with the 3VZ so it should just plug right in. (With the new oil pressure switch) EDIT * Make Sure You Don't Get The Electronic Speedometer Version * I found one from a 1993 with that and I could not hook it up directly. I believe you can convert the cable to the electronic signal, but too much work for me... Anyway, here it is with all the plugs in and power on: (without me changing anything) I unplugged the the oil sender (Thanks Greg, I almost forgot!) I have to replace the light under the 'D' and still find a Canadian Spedo to swap in, but I ran out of time for now... the rain is coming and I had to put the cover on, so I will be working on the rest through the winter, and finishing up the install in the spring! EDIT Here is a picture of the Electronic Speedometer Version from the back, note no spedo cable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Bingo, the Holy Grail has been found Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Looks very promising. I take it you didn't get a chance to drive it with they new speedo? I'm just wondering if possibly the 'gearing' of the speedo might be different in the T-100 speedo. Different axle ratio (don't know)? Different tire sizes (15" vs 14")? I hope not, but just thought I'd mention the potential problem before everyone goes and buys one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Looks very promising. I take it you didn't get a chance to drive it with they new speedo? No, no test drive... Just a quick test to see if the lights work when switches are turned and pressed.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 I paid $20 from ebay (I screwed up on the shipping so i had to pay $30 just for that) I got one from a 1998 T-100 because I'm planning on a newer engine, but they are also available from 1993 and 1994 with the 3VZ so it should just plug right in. (With the new oil pressure switch) Anyway, here it is with all the plugs in and power on: (without me changing anything) I unplugged the the oil sender (Thanks Greg, I almost forgot!) I have to replace the light under the 'D' and still find a Canadian Spedo to swap in, but I ran out of time for now... the rain is coming and I had to put the cover on, so I will be working on the rest through the winter, and finishing up the install in the spring! When I was working with mine I dropped one of the little bulbs. Killed it. Guess they are sorta fragile. I believe there are some led replacements but doing them all would be pricy. As for metric isn't there a KM scale below the Mph scale? Looks very promising. I take it you didn't get a chance to drive it with they new speedo? I'm just wondering if possibly the 'gearing' of the speedo might be different in the T-100 speedo. Different axle ratio (don't know)? Different tire sizes (15" vs 14")? I hope not, but just thought I'd mention the potential problem before everyone goes and buys one. Mine came out of a same year 4 runner which run 15 inch tires. A recent trip up north gave me the answer as they have radar speed readouts on the highway at curves and other places. I found that it was always just a smidgen low. The pointer can be moved on the shaft. Which is a point I forgot to mention. I moved mine by accident while working on the cluster. I re adjusted it to center on zero and its been fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 As for metric isn't there a KM scale below the Mph scale? Yes, but the Canadian model has the KM scale with the Mph below... Also this is the excuse i used to justify the swap to my wife Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Yes, but the Canadian model has the KM scale with the Mph below... Also this is the excuse i used to justify the swap to my wife A few years back I was looking for some items for my ford ranger and ran across replacement cluster faceplates. They came in assorted colors with replacement bulbs for new colors. Might be some out there for our toys. I did a quick search but found nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Like this, perhaps? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-1995-TOYOTA-4RUNNER-Glow-Gauges-89-90-91-92-93-94-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5f576596QQitemZ250707666326QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Those white ones do look nice... But even if they come in KL/H the odometer will still read in miles.... It will be easy for me to just buy a local cluster from a scraped 4runner or truck and swap it over... I have a local private wrecker that says he has one for me for $15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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