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I hate to even attempt this as to suffer the ire of both of you.

No ire here. I worked in place that rebuilt automotive and medium-duty truck torque-converters. Not a very high-tech job. Boring and tedious, yes. Cutting them apart (most are welded together), replace most of the guts, weld back together, and balance. Nothing really high-tech about it. I only mentioned it to indicate I know how a torque-converter works and know what they look like inside. Also rebuilt many of the big bolt-together ones like used in off-road equipment. Especially with Clark or Allison transmissions. Again, nothing very high tech; No small parts and diagnosis was easy once apart. Hardest part is keeping up with the updates to parts, if necessary. Auto torque-converters for the most part are hardly even cost-effective to take apart and rebuild anymore. New ones are amazingly cheap. Many things going that way.

I did not bother to answer the "hypothetical" question because I was at the time, and am still not, in the mood for a "thought experiment." I prefer to concentrate on real problems that are discussed here about little RVs. Kind along the same reason why I don't ask anyone here what the roller-to-roller max-fuel setting is for a C-code, GM 6.2 diesel with a rotary-distributor Stanadyne injection pump. A tedious question that can make the brain hurt.

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Hi. I came across this forum in search of solution to transmisson problem (22re engine and a43d transmissiin) hope to hear something helpful. .. we are traveling in 86 pickup motorhome and it quit on me in Arizona ... motor Is running but transmission only pulls few hundred feet before it loosing grip ... and after 5minut or so it runs again for a min or so... I'm at option of rebuilding it..(or is there other way to drive it home about 1200miles?). .. and came across this site ... lots of random info but can't seems to figure out what to do with my rv ...any way it will drive on higher gear if I keep pushing gas harder? Or should I change oil to dex 6 ..I did noticed that trany fluid over hot level in stick ...and hot level is above cool on deepstick..... do I have to pull engine and trany out? And take everything apart on a side of a road? Is there any other way?if yes..I have to..what's best way? Do I have to get torque converter ? Rebuilt kit? Or just take it apart and than see what I need?

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Are you checking the fluid with the engine running? If so, and it's overfull, that usually indicates that the filter (screen) is restricted. You might try dropping the pan, cleaning or replacing the screen, and then adding fresh fluid, but it sounds like the trans is toast.

If it is toast, it's not exactly something you can rebuild on the side of the road.

That's my $0.02 worth. Others may have other ideas.

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With engine running. I ll definitely check filter. I was running truck with stick pushing gas pedal last 500 miles between 50...65 mph .. going up hill speed was dropping to 50..than I heard engine running harder and up on 65 it was switching to quet run ...and so on ... OD button stopped working about 1500 miles ago alone with fuel light on and emergency break . I was told this truck didn't run long when I got it..month ago ...had to change rotor and caliper on passenger side and put new muffler Caz old one had holes in it...and about 500 miles ago ..harmonic balancer pulley started to spin on it rubber base ..so had to change that..Caz that belt was pulling waterpump and altinator. Now. Some squicking noise coming from engine area ...probably staring pump Caz belt seems shaking. . And I did cut air conditioning belt to see if that's airconditioner ...it wasn't. . So...now..not totally on a side of a road ..it parking lot of a store ..I can get all kinds of tools... and oder parts from napa and o'reilly.

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Update ..after 3 days sitting in walmart I drain 1.5qt of transmission fluid and it runs fine so far drove 5 miles and no sign of slipping.

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-

Donnie, please continue. I know a lot about auto transmissions and understand stall speed, but don't have the answer to your example (although I think I know most of the answer).

I finally have a new monitor & am back in circulation: I'd like to ask 2ndopinion if I was able to give you a satisfactory answer to your question.. If you would like to discuss further ideas on either transmissions or converters, I'm pretty sure that you want to make the correct selection when choosing a REBUILT converter for you project car..Having read all that you have done, I think that your are well on your way & I agree with all of your choices....filter brand, filter local, cooler line routing etc. You may want to PM me ...to avoid any more hassles about buying a NEW converter vs. having one built to perform the way you like...donnie

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torque-converters for the most part are hardly even cost-effective to take apart and rebuild anymore. New ones are amazingly cheap. Many things going that way.



I did not bother to answer the "hypothetical" question because I was at the time, and am still not, in the mood for a "thought experiment." I prefer to concentrate on real problems that are discussed here about little RVs.



Maris, the torque rebuilding industry is not going the way of the master cylinder, water pump, or the doe-doe bird..Why don't you call 15 or 20 ATRA shops & see how many of them are using "NEW" converters


I believe it was Linda who was having a "real problem" back in post # 60 that started this whole mess. I simply stated that a special converter could be built to address her situation. I started talking about STR's


and That seemed to go right past you.. Instead of giving me a little credit for knowing my vocation, you popped up with your knowledge about factory units from Toyota, or whatever source material you were quoting from. I have never heard you admit that you did not know the answer to ANY question that was ever asked on here, be it car, truck, tractor or whatever...YOU ALWAYS have to have the LAST word...on any subject.


After you check out the ATRA shops, or chains, or independents or whom ever you choose....skip on over to the TCRA site, & see how much activity is there...I gained a vast amount of my knowledge from Mike Ratner who founded Tri Components & Jim Beatty who built the ATI empire..RIP Jim..I hope there is a drag strip in the sky, just for you... got a little off topic there as Jim was never too busy to take time out for a visit from me when I would drop off my wife at her mothers & cruise on over to his shop & BS for awhile...As Jim always said, anyone can cut open a converter, replace parts & weld it back together...but "it takes a bit more to design a converter & build it to do what the car owner is needing to WIN...I'm going out now so you can have the last word.....donnie WHOOPS ! I forgot to paste in the topic...may still do it in the next post


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Donnie, yes, you did answer my question(s), and most of your answer is what I thought it'd be. Thank you!

Most people forget what the nomenclature "torque converter" really means. It is not just a "fluid coupler".

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American English relies on context and not all words mean the same things to all people in all places. In my background and places I've worked - "fluid couplers" - although used years ago in some cars - were never "torque converters." Torque converters use stators and can multiply torque. Since the early 80s (more or less) - "torque conveters" with added mechanical couplers have become the norm in autos and light trucks. Not trying to set any word "rules" here but am explaining what I mean, when I use the words here on this Toyota forum. All the Toyota RVs we've been discussing, to my knowledge - only came with "torque converters." No "fluid couplers" and no added "mechanical couplers" inside the TC shell. That is unless some of the newer 3 liter Toyota RVs came with lock-up clutches. I never had one, nor have I ever worked on one and cannot say I ever researched the subject.

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I'm not saying a fluid coupler is even comparable to a torque converter. I'm just saying that most people don't realize how a torque converter works, especially when you include the stator, and that the torque multiplication can be changed, not just the stall speed.

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Funny but when TCs first got installed in farm tractors and log skidders - they were commonly just called "oil heaters." A very fitting name.

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not the subject your talking about, but does this trans have a speed sensor, and if so where is it located in 1985 a43d?

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No, it does not have a speed sensor, as there is no TCM (transmission control module), and the ECM has no input from/to the transmission. 

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2 hours ago, a2ndopinion said:

No, it does not have a speed sensor, as there is no TCM (transmission control module), and the ECM has no input from/to the transmission. 

Thanks for the response, that's what I thought, installing cruise control, it said connect to the speed sensor, I'll need to connect to coil instead.

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