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I hate to even attempt this as to suffer the ire of both of you. Donnie, sometimes you have to parse the words that are written. Sort of like, up to 50% off. What was stated was the he worked in a shop that did converter rebuilding without any other details. Look I worked someplace that did brain surgery. Spent 6 months working at a hospital. As a electronics specialist, I even was called to go into operating rooms to swap out gear that would act up. Often times in the middle of surgery. The experience gave me quite a bit of insight into many medical things. However, it doesn't make me a brain surgeon. See what I mean? This is not meant to disparage anyone. It is just that I see many posts go off the rails where someone says that this person said this or that. Then I read the post further and it is not exactly what they said.

JDE, I don't know specifically what your resume holds but certainly you have a deep basis of knowledge in the mechanical field. Forgive me if I parse only one sentence to illustrate my point. In addition to indicating you worked at a shop that performed converter rebuilding you also used "we'd cut them apart". It does leave the door open as to the what exactly the we part of the statement means.

I try to follow along when possible. Learn a great deal and have a great deal of respect for those with knowledge I don't have. This is the internet though. “Doveryai, no proveryai.” Reagan

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OK Maris, here is a hypothetical for you: Customer brings you a S10 pick up with a 4 or 500 hp engine, running nitrous. Engine stalls at 4 grand right where his power band is. He's happy with that. His rear axle ratio is correct as he hits the traps at the desired RPM.

But his 60 foot time sux, he sits there burning his 16" slicks and watching the tail lights of the guy beside him leaving. He comes to you for help what would you do? ....................................donnie

Donnie, please continue. I know a lot about auto transmissions and understand stall speed, but don't have the answer to your example (although I think I know most of the answer).
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Now my input.

With my '81 Corona wagon with an A40D trans (currently), I've added an inline filter (spin on, Ford type - Purolator 30001, NAPA/Wix 51515, Fram (heaven forbid) PH8a...) on the hot side of the cooler line (hot fluid filters better), then through a huge aftermarket cooler, then through the factory radiator cooler. I've had many people tell me that it should go through the factory cooler first, but my reasoning is that in cold weather, the factory cooler can actually warm the fluid, as 170 seems to be the ideal temp for trans fluid. Colder, it doesn't have the correct flow rate, and warmer begins excess wear. This car has towed many other RWD Celicas, Coronas, a utility trailer, a couple Mk I Supras, and a Cressida, and with a built 22R has been severely abused, but with probably 350,000 miles, still works great!!!

BTW, I use the same Purolator filter on the engine, and on the 1UZ in my Lexus. I always figure that if I can fit a bigger filter, use it!

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Donnie, please continue. I know a lot about auto transmissions and understand stall speed, but don't have the answer to your example (although I think I know most of the answer).

The answer that I was looking for was a stator replacement. since the pickup is lighter in the rear, getting the engine torque to the asphalt can be a problem.. I am assuming that all other criteria has been addressed....That includes rear end geometry, weight transfer, axle ratio, tire size & rubber compound etc. etc............in other words all that can be done other than the converter has been done...AND, since we were talking CONVERTER, I would opt for a stator change.. Some others may not agree, sure you can go to another set of Diff gears, alter tire pressure or change rubber compound and on & on...BUT WE WERE TALKING CONVERTER.....so I would like a SOFTER launch....

Since the early 1980's... the converter of choice for street / strip cars has been the GM FWD 10inch converter....some builders call it a 9 1/2"

because that is the turbine size.....And smaller is better..huh? Everyone recalls the 8" Opal. Almost everyone is using that core.....it was used in all FWD GM cars with the 125------thru the 440. or from the 2.0L engine to the 3.8 v6 & cores are EVERYWHERE & CHEEP>

There are 8 different Impellers, about 1/2 of them can be identified by a single digit # stamped near the hub..If there is no # available the the fin angle must be determined by the builder......There are 4 positive & 4 negative angles.. There are also 5 different stators & these ARE numbered...

Using this core,STR'S or torque multiplication ratios are available in many options from about 1:66 to 2:70 with many variables in between. Also Billet fronts, & heat treated turbine centers, flanged hubs, steel srtators & everything else that is needed to build what you need is available

Hope this makes sense & is readable as my monitor screen is heading south Big fade in the center..& I can just barely see what I am typing

.....................................................................................donnie

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Yep I remember Vega converters were the hot lick lasted for a few races! Interesting device goes from a torque amp to a fluid coupling.

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I hate to even attempt this as to suffer the ire of both of you.

No ire here. I worked in place that rebuilt automotive and medium-duty truck torque-converters. Not a very high-tech job. Boring and tedious, yes. Cutting them apart (most are welded together), replace most of the guts, weld back together, and balance. Nothing really high-tech about it. I only mentioned it to indicate I know how a torque-converter works and know what they look like inside. Also rebuilt many of the big bolt-together ones like used in off-road equipment. Especially with Clark or Allison transmissions. Again, nothing very high tech; No small parts and diagnosis was easy once apart. Hardest part is keeping up with the updates to parts, if necessary. Auto torque-converters for the most part are hardly even cost-effective to take apart and rebuild anymore. New ones are amazingly cheap. Many things going that way.

I did not bother to answer the "hypothetical" question because I was at the time, and am still not, in the mood for a "thought experiment." I prefer to concentrate on real problems that are discussed here about little RVs. Kind along the same reason why I don't ask anyone here what the roller-to-roller max-fuel setting is for a C-code, GM 6.2 diesel with a rotary-distributor Stanadyne injection pump. A tedious question that can make the brain hurt.

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Hi. I came across this forum in search of solution to transmisson problem (22re engine and a43d transmissiin) hope to hear something helpful. .. we are traveling in 86 pickup motorhome and it quit on me in Arizona ... motor Is running but transmission only pulls few hundred feet before it loosing grip ... and after 5minut or so it runs again for a min or so... I'm at option of rebuilding it..(or is there other way to drive it home about 1200miles?). .. and came across this site ... lots of random info but can't seems to figure out what to do with my rv ...any way it will drive on higher gear if I keep pushing gas harder? Or should I change oil to dex 6 ..I did noticed that trany fluid over hot level in stick ...and hot level is above cool on deepstick..... do I have to pull engine and trany out? And take everything apart on a side of a road? Is there any other way?if yes..I have to..what's best way? Do I have to get torque converter ? Rebuilt kit? Or just take it apart and than see what I need?

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Are you checking the fluid with the engine running? If so, and it's overfull, that usually indicates that the filter (screen) is restricted. You might try dropping the pan, cleaning or replacing the screen, and then adding fresh fluid, but it sounds like the trans is toast.

If it is toast, it's not exactly something you can rebuild on the side of the road.

That's my $0.02 worth. Others may have other ideas.

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With engine running. I ll definitely check filter. I was running truck with stick pushing gas pedal last 500 miles between 50...65 mph .. going up hill speed was dropping to 50..than I heard engine running harder and up on 65 it was switching to quet run ...and so on ... OD button stopped working about 1500 miles ago alone with fuel light on and emergency break . I was told this truck didn't run long when I got it..month ago ...had to change rotor and caliper on passenger side and put new muffler Caz old one had holes in it...and about 500 miles ago ..harmonic balancer pulley started to spin on it rubber base ..so had to change that..Caz that belt was pulling waterpump and altinator. Now. Some squicking noise coming from engine area ...probably staring pump Caz belt seems shaking. . And I did cut air conditioning belt to see if that's airconditioner ...it wasn't. . So...now..not totally on a side of a road ..it parking lot of a store ..I can get all kinds of tools... and oder parts from napa and o'reilly.

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-

Donnie, please continue. I know a lot about auto transmissions and understand stall speed, but don't have the answer to your example (although I think I know most of the answer).

I finally have a new monitor & am back in circulation: I'd like to ask 2ndopinion if I was able to give you a satisfactory answer to your question.. If you would like to discuss further ideas on either transmissions or converters, I'm pretty sure that you want to make the correct selection when choosing a REBUILT converter for you project car..Having read all that you have done, I think that your are well on your way & I agree with all of your choices....filter brand, filter local, cooler line routing etc. You may want to PM me ...to avoid any more hassles about buying a NEW converter vs. having one built to perform the way you like...donnie

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torque-converters for the most part are hardly even cost-effective to take apart and rebuild anymore. New ones are amazingly cheap. Many things going that way.



I did not bother to answer the "hypothetical" question because I was at the time, and am still not, in the mood for a "thought experiment." I prefer to concentrate on real problems that are discussed here about little RVs.



Maris, the torque rebuilding industry is not going the way of the master cylinder, water pump, or the doe-doe bird..Why don't you call 15 or 20 ATRA shops & see how many of them are using "NEW" converters


I believe it was Linda who was having a "real problem" back in post # 60 that started this whole mess. I simply stated that a special converter could be built to address her situation. I started talking about STR's


and That seemed to go right past you.. Instead of giving me a little credit for knowing my vocation, you popped up with your knowledge about factory units from Toyota, or whatever source material you were quoting from. I have never heard you admit that you did not know the answer to ANY question that was ever asked on here, be it car, truck, tractor or whatever...YOU ALWAYS have to have the LAST word...on any subject.


After you check out the ATRA shops, or chains, or independents or whom ever you choose....skip on over to the TCRA site, & see how much activity is there...I gained a vast amount of my knowledge from Mike Ratner who founded Tri Components & Jim Beatty who built the ATI empire..RIP Jim..I hope there is a drag strip in the sky, just for you... got a little off topic there as Jim was never too busy to take time out for a visit from me when I would drop off my wife at her mothers & cruise on over to his shop & BS for awhile...As Jim always said, anyone can cut open a converter, replace parts & weld it back together...but "it takes a bit more to design a converter & build it to do what the car owner is needing to WIN...I'm going out now so you can have the last word.....donnie WHOOPS ! I forgot to paste in the topic...may still do it in the next post


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Donnie, yes, you did answer my question(s), and most of your answer is what I thought it'd be. Thank you!

Most people forget what the nomenclature "torque converter" really means. It is not just a "fluid coupler".

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American English relies on context and not all words mean the same things to all people in all places. In my background and places I've worked - "fluid couplers" - although used years ago in some cars - were never "torque converters." Torque converters use stators and can multiply torque. Since the early 80s (more or less) - "torque conveters" with added mechanical couplers have become the norm in autos and light trucks. Not trying to set any word "rules" here but am explaining what I mean, when I use the words here on this Toyota forum. All the Toyota RVs we've been discussing, to my knowledge - only came with "torque converters." No "fluid couplers" and no added "mechanical couplers" inside the TC shell. That is unless some of the newer 3 liter Toyota RVs came with lock-up clutches. I never had one, nor have I ever worked on one and cannot say I ever researched the subject.

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I'm not saying a fluid coupler is even comparable to a torque converter. I'm just saying that most people don't realize how a torque converter works, especially when you include the stator, and that the torque multiplication can be changed, not just the stall speed.

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  • 1 year later...

not the subject your talking about, but does this trans have a speed sensor, and if so where is it located in 1985 a43d?

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No, it does not have a speed sensor, as there is no TCM (transmission control module), and the ECM has no input from/to the transmission. 

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2 hours ago, a2ndopinion said:

No, it does not have a speed sensor, as there is no TCM (transmission control module), and the ECM has no input from/to the transmission. 

Thanks for the response, that's what I thought, installing cruise control, it said connect to the speed sensor, I'll need to connect to coil instead.

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  • 1 year later...

I have finally and painstakingly installed a new block. oh she purrs. but alas I am not done. the new problem is transmission related I suspect. the issue is while driving acceleration does not match the revolutions as it should. the motor roars but the trans eeks along. last driven a quarter mile in the Colorado in the city. travelling on flat surface the gas pushed to the floor(not really) the truck tops out at 35 mph and the engine sounds like it is roaring at about 3500 rpm. I have parked it for the season but I fear that I will have to rebuild or replace the transmission. I am not ready to take this next project on. please any info on buying, maintaining or replacing the A43D transmission.  my Rig is a 1987 Dolphin with the 22re and A43D.

Thanks y'all

 

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Before you panic make sure the TV cable is not stuck it is connected to the throttle linkage it sounds like it's not shifting. It is the lower cable the smaller one if it's slack at idle it's stuck it will make the trans think you have your foot to the floor all the time.

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1 hour ago, Maineah said:

Before you panic make sure the TV cable is not stuck it is connected to the throttle linkage it sounds like it's not shifting. It is the lower cable the smaller one if it's slack at idle it's stuck it will make the trans think you have your foot to the floor all the time.

i think that sounds likely! the trans sounds just like that it is not upshifting to the next range. are there 'dummy' checks for the linkages? could it be my cable travelling down the drivers side into the tranny? of course I do not have a smarty phone and my digital camera files are too large to just drop here. and thank you maineah. I hope to be able to meet more enthusiasts during toy jamborees or some such. good folk! a certain kind of character likes these vehicles.

I think I will have to make a vinyl sticker that is the hitchhikers guide "DON'T PANIC" just to remind myself.

Yes I think that the cable does have slack at idle. but It is stored for the cold season. can I interweb videos to adjust the cable?

Edited by flipper the 87 dolphin
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12 hours ago, flipper the 87 dolphin said:

i think that sounds likely! the trans sounds just like that it is not upshifting to the next range. are there 'dummy' checks for the linkages? could it be my cable travelling down the drivers side into the tranny? of course I do not have a smarty phone and my digital camera files are too large to just drop here. and thank you maineah. I hope to be able to meet more enthusiasts during toy jamborees or some such. good folk! a certain kind of character likes these vehicles.

I think I will have to make a vinyl sticker that is the hitchhikers guide "DON'T PANIC" just to remind myself.

Yes I think that the cable does have slack at idle. but It is stored for the cold season. can I interweb videos to adjust the cable?

If it's stuck it's bad it does require dropping the trans pan but it's not a really hard job. Yes the cable runs down the side of the trans from the throttle linkage to the bottom of the trans  pan. They get water in them occasionally  and the innards rust then they bind up.

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  • 1 year later...

I have a 91 DLX pickup 22re and a43d auto trans. It has just started leaking fluid between the bell housing and the case. I have searched everywhere online for the oring/seal and a possible part number/availability. No such luck. Does anyone on here happen to have any info on this or maybe you can point me in the right direction of where to look. Thanks.

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They were unchanged for years and should be readily available. If you need the pump "O" ring it may included a lot of other seals. That trans was all so used in Volvos. Same goes with the Toyota crank seal there are millions of them still out there. Just went on line there were dozens of hits. 

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The torque converter seal and pump seal are both listed here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1991,pickup,2.4l+l4,1277861,transmission-automatic

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  • 3 months later...

I recently picked up my 86 Mirage and at the time needed repair and a decent amount of work done to it. When I got it it was not in driving condition and I have just recently gotten it registered and insured so I can begin driving it and working a few things out. When driving it and trying to get it up to speed I have not been able to get it out of first gear. It has the a43d automatic tranny and has been sitting a couple years. Reverse works but I can not get it out of first. The fluid looks pretty clean and is at the right level. The camper has 47k miles on it with the 22RE. Not sure what I should be trying to do. I have called a few transmission shops to try and find out some possible causes but they all want to look at it first. I figured I would post on here first to get some advice before I bring it anywhere or if anyone has had a similar problem. 

 

I appreciate any responses greatly, 

Brody

Edited by BB8811
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There is a small cable on the throttle body left side facing the engine make sure that it is not stuck in the extended position. It has a small stop on the cable and that should return to the end of the outer cable at rest. if it is sticking out at rest the cable is bound up. It is called a TV cable (throttle valve) it controls the shift points in relation to the engine speed. 

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41 minutes ago, Maineah said:

There is a small cable on the throttle body left side facing the engine make sure that it is not stuck in the extended position. It has a small stop on the cable and that should return to the end of the outer cable at rest. if it is sticking out at rest the cable is bound up. It is called a TV cable (throttle valve) it controls the shift points in relation to the engine speed. 

Your right! Thank you. Mine is stuck in the extended position. It seems like it is not connected at all because it freely came out about a foot but I did not want to pull it all the way out. I tried tracing the cable down but it seems to go on top of the transmission and I cannot see where it ends. I am going to do some more research and see if this is something I can do on my own or If I have to bring it somewhere. Thank you again. 

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If it freely came out that far, the end inside the trans must have broken off, but that’s odd, because the part it’s connected to should be spring loaded to the point that the trans would be shifting very early. The pivot is visible with the pan removed, but is a major PITA to work on while under the vehicle. 

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It's probably broken from water intrusion ( cable rusted) and held in the extended position if it just snapped it would shift way too early. The throttle cable is much stouter than the shift cable so a good stomp on the gas snapped the inner cable in the extended position. They are pretty good transmissions and they were used in different configurations for decades. It's not a bad job to replace the cable (oily yes but) Toyota at least gave you a drain plug in the pan.  The ideal is to replace the cable adjust the upper end until the stop is close to the end of the outer cable. You may need to change the adjustment after a test drive if it shifts too soon adjust the outer cable inward too late slacken it. Now here is the next hint if the fluid is dark do not get carried away and have it flushed just replace the fluid you lost it may take around 4 qts.do not buy into the SYN oil scheme just plain vanilla trans fluid. There is no real filter just a fine screen easy to clean and reinstall. 

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On 6/20/2020 at 5:45 PM, Maineah said:

It's probably broken from water intrusion ( cable rusted) and held in the extended position if it just snapped it would shift way too early. The throttle cable is much stouter than the shift cable so a good stomp on the gas snapped the inner cable in the extended position. They are pretty good transmissions and they were used in different configurations for decades. It's not a bad job to replace the cable (oily yes but) Toyota at least gave you a drain plug in the pan.  The ideal is to replace the cable adjust the upper end until the stop is close to the end of the outer cable. You may need to change the adjustment after a test drive if it shifts too soon adjust the outer cable inward too late slacken it. Now here is the next hint if the fluid is dark do not get carried away and have it flushed just replace the fluid you lost it may take around 4 qts.do not buy into the SYN oil scheme just plain vanilla trans fluid. There is no real filter just a fine screen easy to clean and reinstall. 

Thank you. I was able to find the new cable and is going to come the fastest directly from toyota. Is there somewhere in the forums I can find the part number for the transmission pan gasket? I have been trying to find it but have not been successful. 

-Brody

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Any auto parts store should have the kit - gasket an a new screen. Just tell them it’s a Toyota 2WD pickup so they don’t get confused trying to find a motorhome. 

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There are still millions out  there NAPA etc. will have one. Hint the gaskets are soft so when they are tightened it has a tendency to raze the pan around the bolt hole so while you have it off place the pan edge on the edge of a bench, 2X4 or what what ever place a small ball peen hammer over the transmission side of the pan over the bolt hole and give it a tap with another hammer.

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