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OK, you guys are now talking my language, reamers :-) (I have a few reamers for my benchrest barrels).

Derek et Maineah, gotcha large shops are too rigid and not interested in small jobs, that is my experience also.

but to gauge $$$, I use large shops to get estimates for worst case.

I am asking cuz I might be buying another toyo to use while I fix my 90 winni. $$$ is pretty tight.

JDE et Maineah, thanks for the details. I can visualize the issue and the parts from reading the posts!

So as long as we keep the tranny topped off, a little leak on the rear (other than polluting) is not going to harm the tranny.

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So as long as we keep the tranny topped off, a little leak on the rear (other than polluting) is not going to harm the tranny.



NO !


Find an independent shop that can replace the bushing WITHOUT removing the extension housing.....There are bushing pullers that can reach in and grab the bushing (they have 4 expanding jaws that will fit over the output shaft & a bolt that contacts the end of the shaft to push on)....any good shop will be able to replace the bushing & seal in 10 minutes after removing the drive shaft out of the way...With the correct tools it is easy.


If you can feel any play when trying to move the yoke, Replace the bushing & seal...FM makes this bushing available in either brass clad or babbit / alloy.....either is fine...Brass will last longer.. When checking for movement, make sure that the trans is not loaded against the parking pawl


if the wheels are on the ground, block them so the truck can't roll & put the trans in neutral


If your shop insists that he has to remove the housing to replace the bushing & seal....Find another shop.......donnie

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It is the only support for the output shaft the splines fit inside of the yoke the bushing supports the yoke there is no bearing at the back. A trashed yoke bushing will soon cause the governor rings to dig into the case. By the way there is also a reamer and bushing available to repair a damaged case, If it's leaking most likely the bushing is bad but if you like to live on the wild side leave it alone. The bushings are available make sure the oil hole is lined up.

No bearing in back?? All four of my Toyota RVs have ball-bearing center-supports in the middle of the driveshafts. Are you saying you have one that does not?

As far as the bushing goes, yes there is a standard and oversize available. Not something easily by a "backyard" mechanic.

As I mentioned earlier, all transmissions that I know of, that use slip-yokes to take up the fore and aft movement of the rear axle. will eventually get some wear and leak out the back. You mentioned the idea of using a roller bearing in back instead of a bronze or babbit bushing. Such a bearing would not work because of the fore and after movement.

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any good shop will be able to replace the bushing & seal in 10 minutes after removing the drive shaft out of the way...

Not quite always THAT easy, but I get your point. That bushing is only part of wear area. Often a chronic leaker will also need a new driveshaft yoke. That is not a 10 minute job to change.

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This is a fine example of how conversations get discombobulated : my post #37 was made in reference to post # 36 by shibs.

Where in his last line, he seemed to think that a small leak was OK.... I wanted to say that a small leak is not OK.......but.....

My copy & paste method is obviously not done correctly as it does not appear in a "box" as all others do.

I have no one to show me, so I just do the best I can......pushing buttons & making mistakes

The grand kids who could show me a lot are a 1000+ miles away & I only see them every other year.

Same with photos, I would be glad to post photos if I knew how.....as I said before, I only started learning computer after I closed my shop.

Before, I had someone else to take care of this stuff & I spent very little time on the computer....I know, I should have paid more attention & probably should get a newer phone as the old rotary phone is a hassle when making calls that require "push one" for English :lol: ......donnie

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You are doing fine Donnie :-)

I spend 16 plus hours in front of a monitor some days, not cuz I want to, cuz I have to.

Back on topic:

I am going to swing by the Toyota dealership and ask them for quote on labor, I am curious.

I like my Toyota service guys, but sells guys are rude knuckle heads.

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Does anybody make for a speedy sleeve for the yoke???

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the old rotary phone is a hassle when making calls that require "push one" for English :lol: ......donnie

Hey .. rotary phones are great for some things. Like working in an unheated shop when it's below 0 degrees F. Try using a touch-tone phone with gel-pad buttons to make a phone call when it's that cold and see how far you get. 20 years ago I was trying to find a push-buttom phone to replace my rotary in my barn that would work in the cold like my rotary did. After many failed attempts I called the phone company as asked them how the heck they get pay phones to work so well outdoors. I was told that outdoor payphones use mechanical buttons now called "heavy duty" but share the same technology as the old Princess pushbutton phones. The tech guy told me to start looking at yard sales and buy one and try it. I did. Paid $10 and my Princess phone has worked at 25 below zero. So, I finally unhooked my rotary.

In regard to a "small leak" in the back of the trans being OK or not? Such a small leak is welcome on my GM plow trucks and they all do it. Small amount of oil gets flicked around by the driveshaft and keeps the metal underneath from rusting out. I think every GM 4WD I ever owned with a New Process 208 or 241 Transfercase leaks small amounts of oil from that slip-joint area. My 1978 K5 Blazer with the cast-iron 205 case does not but that is because in the 70s, the back of the trans or transfercase was NOT used as an in-and-out slip joint. A splined joint in the driveshaft was used instead.

Anyway, my point being my GMs have had those small leaks for 20-30 years and never got worse. Not something I want on my Toyota RV though.

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No bearing in back?? All four of my Toyota RVs have ball-bearing center-supports in the middle of the driveshafts. Are you saying you have one that does not?

As far as the bushing goes, yes there is a standard and oversize available. Not something easily by a "backyard" mechanic.

As I mentioned earlier, all transmissions that I know of, that use slip-yokes to take up the fore and aft movement of the rear axle. will eventually get some wear and leak out the back. You mentioned the idea of using a roller bearing in back instead of a bronze or babbit bushing. Such a bearing would not work because of the fore and after movement.

Nothing to do with the drive shaft everything to do with the transmission. I think you are thinking about the governor repair bushing inside the case. The case has no bushing the reamer was used to enlarged the case then a bushing was installed to repair the damage done by the governor rings. I do not know of any oversized tail stock bushing. If the tail stock was trashed by a bad bushing and joke it was replaced. They are not a tight fit a punch will easily drive them out and a seal driver will drive a new one in.

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So as long as we keep the tranny topped off, a little leak on the rear (other than polluting) is not going to harm the tranny.

NO !

Find an independent shop that can replace the bushing WITHOUT removing the extension housing.....There are bushing pullers that can reach in and grab the bushing (they have 4 expanding jaws that will fit over the output shaft & a bolt that contacts the end of the shaft to push on)....any good shop will be able to replace the bushing & seal in 10 minutes after removing the drive shaft out of the way...With the correct tools it is easy.

If you can feel any play when trying to move the yoke, Replace the bushing & seal...FM makes this bushing available in either brass clad or babbit / alloy.....either is fine...Brass will last longer.. When checking for movement, make sure that the trans is not loaded against the parking pawl

if the wheels are on the ground, block them so the truck can't roll & put the trans in neutral

If your shop insists that he has to remove the housing to replace the bushing & seal....Find another shop.......donnie

Next one I'll race you I can have the tail stock off before you find the puller! A puller makes it a bit harder for a back yard'er if he has to go buy one.

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Posted Yesterday, 07:02 PM

Does anybody make for a speedy sleeve for the yoke???Posted Yesterday, 07:02

Does anybody make for a speedy sleeve for the yoke???Posted Yesterday, 07:02 PM NOPE, that didn't work :-) no BOX???

Does anybody make for a speedy sleeve for the yoke???NOPE, neither did that, but your answer appears below

NO, because the sleeve would oversize the OD of the yoke & then it would not fit inside the bushing.
Those sleeves are for yokes that need to be repaired to fit a seal only ....................................................as in the pinion seal, or harmonic balancer on the front of the engine....There are no bushings involved in this area & speedy sleeves can save the day on these 2 places.........Donnie
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Next one I'll race you I can have the tail stock off before you find the puller! A puller makes it a bit harder for a back yard'er if he has to go buy one.

Not me, all I need to do is open a drawer, a shade tree, yep, I'll admit these bushing pullers can't be rented from auto stores.....

I was under the impression that the original poster was looking for a small shop to do the repair....I may be mistaken, too lazy to go back & look

But I finally found out how to get the "box"...my copy & past was more work........Just hit Quote...........DUH..... :blush:

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I can't recall if someone asked about the gov. bore repair sleeve.. I bought the tool from Trans-tool a LONG time ago & they also supplied the sleeves.

They were bought out by Hayden the cooler people & became Hayden-Trans-tool....who then became, I think ATEC Trans -Tool.. Last I bought anything from them was years ago, a few sleeves for the Ford AOD...which came out in 1980.. This was a big $$$ maker for us as these gov. rings wore the cases on 75% of the "drive it until it won't shift crowd". The repair in my shop was probably 20 Fords to 1 A40 series trans....I sold the tools & sleeves when I retired, I still have the bushing pullers & installers for most sizes & a complete seal installer set...

Also anyone looking for bushings for ANYTHING....Omega bushing in Sacramento...will have what you need or CUSTOM MAKE ONE for you.

He saved my bacon many times on weird or rare case's....mostly FWD or transfer boxes with spun bushings or other severe case wear.

...........................donnie

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  • 4 months later...

For awhile now I've had this slight drip of tranny fluid and about 1/8th inch play in the propeller shaft. I took her into the shop today and had the bushing and seal replaced. They gave me the old bushing to show the wear it had. My Toy has 94,000 miles on it and I'm pretty sure the bushing has never been replaced before. I do think the slight leak and play are the signs.

Cheers!

post-6384-0-45899900-1438232486_thumb.jp

post-6384-0-97627900-1438232453_thumb.jp

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IMHO if it has a leak replace the bushing and the seal don't take a chance that it might be OK it's not that much more work.

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Gary, if the bushing that you are showing in your photo is the one that was replaced in your trans, I would be suspicious that the yoke has some wear also. Was the yoke replaced? Or just polished? Are you still experiencing a LEAK ?........If you have no leak now & the unit is shifting correctly..YOU ARE LUCKY..donnie

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Donnie - they looked at the yoke and checked the driveshaft. All is good, no leaks and the tranny always shifted great. Just me doing my checks for leaks and giving the driveshaft a shake.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My 86 Sunrader just lost reverse, basically it is just like being in neutral, just revs up nothing happens. I got it to lurch kind of jump backwards with a bad noise once, pulled into a camp spot, but that was it, no more backing up. First thing I need to know is where is the trans ID tag located ? Can I get a unit from a wrecking yard that was in a Toyota car that would fit in? What are my options?

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  • 2 months later...

Lee & Joan - I'm going to assume that since you posted your question over two months ago that you've already had your trans issue resolved, but to answer your question, if you have a 22R/RE, the A40D out of a Celica or Corona ('81-'85) will work, but your driveshaft might be a couple inches too short. The A43D behind a 22R is only found in trucks, but your bellhousing could be substituted to an A43D out of a Supra or Cressida that used an M series engine.

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I would like to add that the A43D planetary gears are larger than planets in an A40.... in addition no what others have said about length etc.

The A43D was beefed up for trucks.............donnie

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I should also add that stall speed & torque ratios...I.E. Impellar & turbine fin angle & stator multiplication ratios are vastly different between lightweight cars & much heavier trucks....All converters may look the same on the outside, but there are MAJOR differences on the inside ...donnie

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I should also add that stall speed & torque ratios...I.E. Impellar & turbine fin angle & stator multiplication ratios are vastly different between lightweight cars & much heavier trucks....All converters may look the same on the outside, but there are MAJOR differences on the inside ...donnie

Same non-lockup torque-converter is used for the A43D and some A40s in pickup trucks as well as some Celicas and Corollas. Same stall speed, 6 pad mount, and 1.25" pilot stub.

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I know the A40D isn't as strong as the A43D, but if in a pinch, which is kinda what I was assuming from the OP...

I'm building an A43D for my Corona wagon with a higher stall converter, better clutches, modified valve body... The stock A40D doesn't like the built 2xR hybrid's increased power!

jdemaris - I have found info saying there are some stock converters with different stall speeds depending on the application, although stall speed is relative to torque, and a 2 or 3TC in a Corolla doesn't have near the torque of a 20R, which has less than an early 22R, which has less than a later 22RE, and much less than a 5M, which all use an A4x_ trans.

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I looked into changing the stall speed on my 22re with A43D trannie after getting stuck in the mountains one time. Turns out that change would increase the heat in the transmission by a lot and heat is death to the A43d trannie especially with so much weight we have

Linda S

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Linda, you are correct in stating that increasing the stall speed of a converter will increase heat, but changing the stall / torque ratio will not create more heat. These are changes that are seldom addressed except by converter builders.. Maris makes no mention of anything else except the stall speed, mounting pad configuration & the pilot hub dia He seems to think that there are no internal differences inside the torque converter, which is normal thinking for someone who is not in the industry.. "If it fits-it ships" is general knowledge......the buzz word, even among sales people who sell converters is STALL SPEED....... there is a hell of a lot more engineering inside a converter than a few extra parts... After building converters for 20+ years I do feel qualified to discuss this in detail if any one cares....... Motorhome or drag car....Ask your sales person the next time you order a converter "what is the stall torque ratio of the converter that you are buying & watch the blank stares. You will get "you mean stall speed?" Back to you Linda: you mentioned getting stuck in the mountains...... what exactly happened? I'm guessing that you did not have the power to pull a steep grade, if this is correct, you need to increase your stall torque ratio & not your stall speed Maris is out to lunch if he thinks that you can install a converter & trans from a Corolla into a 5,000 pound motor home and make it all the way to the dance & BACK.....................donnie

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Maris makes no mention of anything else except the stall speed, mounting pad configuration & the pilot hub dia He seems to think that there are no internal differences inside the torque converter, which is normal thinking for someone who is not in the industry.. ....donnie

That sounds like a bit of hyperbole or nonsense to me. Define "not in the industry" please. I've been in the repair industry for 50 years. I've also worked in a shop that did, in-house torque-converter rebuilding. Both the big ones that are bolted together and the smaller automotive ones that are welded together. With the latter - we'd cut them apart, replace what was needed, weld back together, and balance them.

I made a few simple general statements. One is that Toyota sometimes used the same torque converter in some cars, bare pickups, and dual-wheel motorhomes when it comes to the A43D and the 22RE. One torque converter - direct from Toyota - that fit them all. Toyota parts verifies that. So do my OEM Toyota transmission manuals. Yet you say it is not true and I guess, I'm either "ill informed" or lack experience??

Torque converters are usually marked with a combo of marks, numbers, colored dots, etc. so you can tell what they are when removing.

Also on the subject of truck transmissions versus car transmissions. Sometimes same basic model transmissions have huge differences. One example is the 700R4/4L60 series from GM. When used in some cars and small trucks like S10s - some parts are lighter duty and some clutch disks are left out. NOT the situation with the A43D. I've seen no variation in parts when it comes to the clutches, planet-pinion, etc. regardless if used in a small Toyota car or a dual-wheel box truck or motorhome.

On the subject of stall speeds - Toyota (Aisin) offers low, medium and high stall speed converters for the A43D. Seems to me the higher the better when it comes to a Toyota motorhome with a low-torque 22RE. Not unless you get rid of the 4.10 to 1 rear and up the ratio numbers. My 1988 - with a 22RE and at a dead stop on a very steep hill - could barely get moving again from 1st gear. That's when it had a 4.10. Has a 4.56 to 1 now which makes it much better. Year's back - Chevy had a mess with gas powered K5 Blazers and TH350 transmissions and low stall-speed torque converters. Put the Blazer on a very steep hill in low - and stop - and it would not be able to get moving again. But unlike my 1988 Toyota RV, most Blazers were 4WD and had dual-range transfercases. So all had to be done was shift the case into low gear.

To be fair - even some manual transmission rigs had the same problem. Point of clutch engagement is similar to torque-converter stall-speed. I had a brand-new 1987 Nissan Sentra that was an el-cheap "special" for $5700 brand new. Came with a 4 speed man. trans instead of a 5 speed. I found out quick that on a steep hill - it would not go. No matter how I slipped the clutch and rev the engine - it would stall. We found out the first week we had it when we tried to stay at a motel that had the parking lot on the 2nd floor and we had to drive up a ramp. We could not do it. I suspect had the car had the 5 speed - 1st gear would of been lower and it would not have been an issue.

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Here is one example of one converter direct from Toyota fitting several cars and trucks. This is the correct one - according to Toyota - for my 1988 dual-wheel Minicruiser with a 22RE and A43D.

post-6578-0-32317800-1446146976_thumb.jp

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Do they make special torque converters (heavy duty ones) for RVs?

I remember reading you could have beefier torque converter make (????) what are the advantages of a beefier torque converter?

There are many companies that make HD torque-converters for trucks and RVs that have "lock-up" torque-converters. The lock-up clutch is the weak-link that often does them in when used hard in "lock-up" mode. Not an issue with a Toyota A43D that has no lock-up clutch. I suppose that's why Toyota left it out when used in trucks made to work hard. Conventional torque-converter failures are very rare. They certainly can fail after a trans goes bad and all the debris goes though the converter. It also why no reputable trans rebuilder will warranty a transmission unless the torque-converter is cut apart and checked out - or replaced.

There are a few torque-converters that had weak design. Like GM used on 80s diesel that only had three bolt-mounts and lugs. So a GM 6.2 diesel came with three bolts and lugs holding the torque-converter on - yet a little Toyota A43D up against a four-cylinder gas engine has six bolts and lugs. In the case of the GMs - you could buy upgraded 6 lug torque-converters.

I'm not aware of any complaints or upgrades with any of the torque-converters used OEM for the A43D. That being said - Toyota increased the size of it over the years (for the A40 series). Previa van with the A43D had a 10.3" diameter converter. 1976-1995 Cressida, Supra, Celica, Corolla, and pickup trucks used 10.5" diameter converters. Around 1995 - Toyota started used even bigger 11.3" converters in some trucks with A43D transmissions.

I've got a 2002 Chevy Tracker 4WD with a V6 engine and a A43D electronic-controlled lock-up version. It has nearly 300K miles on it and the trans/converter is original. I find that pretty impressive.

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OK Maris, here is a hypothetical for you: Customer brings you a S10 pick up with a 4 or 500 hp engine, running nitrous. Engine stalls at 4 grand right where his power band is. He's happy with that. His rear axle ratio is correct as he hits the traps at the desired RPM.

But his 60 foot time sux, he sits there burning his 16" slicks and watching the tail lights of the guy beside him leaving. He comes to you for help what would you do? ....................................donnie

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(you said you see no variation in parts when it comes to clutches, planets, or etc. Regardless if used in a small Toyota car or dual wheel box truck or motor home.)

I would like to note a few facts concerning the above statement. The 3 speed A40 with SMALL planetary gears was used in cars made up to August 1981. Then Toyota changed some seal rings and made changes to the SMALL planetary gear. They now call this the A41. In some trucks you will find an A43 which is the A41 with LARGE planetary gears. Their first 4 speed transmission goes back to the basic A40 with an overdrive stuck on the front. Toyota now calls this the A40D. D meaning overdrive. The A43D has LARGER planetary gears. Then Toyota wanted a lock-up clutch so they added one to the A43D and called it the A43DL. As you might have guessed L means lock-up. Toyota also had a A42DL. These have SMALL planetary gears. In 1986 Toyota engineers changed the overdrive gear ratio and gave the transmission a new name. The A45DL. I could go on and on but I think you get my point. If you are still thinking "if it fits it ships" maybe this info will help you understand that All parts are not the same

.......................................donnie.

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(you said you see no variation in parts when it comes to clutches, planets, or etc. Regardless if used in a small Toyota car or dual wheel box truck or motor home.)

If you are still thinking "if it fits it ships" maybe this info will help you understand that All parts are not the same

.......................................donnie.

I don't know what sort of point you are trying to make. I never said there were "no" differences between different model transmissions - did I? My comment was about one model - the A43D. Also where does this " if it ships it will fit" nonsense come from? Certainly not from me. If you are somehow trying to speak "down to me" and "educate me" - I'm waiting for you to tell me something I don't already know. Or point out some specific fact I've stated that is incorrect. You are the one who has made some incorrect statements here about A43D torque converters. As to that - Toyota Company does not agree you. Maybe you need to contact them and give them some "education."

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Geez Maris, I didn't know that you were a converter builder too,, "If it fits-it ships" was meant to be a response to your claim that if the Toyota book says it fits.........they will ship it....no more no less... Myself I don't buy converters, I build them... I don't care what the Toyota book offers, if they offer only 3 then it must be so.. I'm not disputing that. .Did you ever stop & think what could be done to the converter to give you a bit more "stuff" when you are out of power on a steep hill? This is what I mean by building converters, not just cutting them open & replacing parts. But designing the modifications needed to remedy a situation....sure, I agree that dropping the rear end ratio is a Good remedy...but we are speaking torque converter here, NO???

POST # 67...I offered you a hypothetical situation that we builders often run into....If you were / are a converter builder...I wonder why you glazed right over that post... You have had time now to do some research...wanna give it a go?????????????........................

I was kinda thinking that you would jump right on it................................donnie

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