Derek up North Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 And don't overtighten the pan bolts. They just have to be tight enough for it not to leak, not hold then engine together. I'm sure there's a torque spec somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BB8811 Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Turns out I did not find the right cable. I have talked to my local Toyota dealer but they were not much help and could only tell me that the right part I thought I had did not match with my VIN. It seems like the cable is also called a detent cable but I have only been able to find them for 4 runners of the same year. I am going to call some local transmission shops to see if they have any ideas or sources. If anyone reads this and has any suggestions it would be great. The part number that I thought would work is 3552035030 but Toyota told me otherwise.  Any help would be awesome. Thanks. Brody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 And they couldn't use your VIN to find the right cable for you? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Looks like I can't copy and paste the website I use for parts anymore but your part number is 35520-22021 The exact part number for our 86's has been discontinued but it says this earlier one will fit. Available from Toyota Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BB8811 Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 5 minutes ago, linda s said: Looks like I can't copy and paste the website I use for parts anymore but your part number is 35520-22021 The exact part number for our 86's has been discontinued but it says this earlier one will fit. Available from Toyota Thank you so much. I will be spraying the new cable very often after the headache this has caused me. Thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Well don't thank me yet. I can't find that part number available on any other website. Can't find any aftermarket ones either. The best I could find is a universal cable but you would need to have all the parts of the old one to measure exactly https://www.jcwhitney.com/results/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=Throttle+Cable&tahsearch=1&tahgroup=UGS&tahrank=171400&tahscore=5.50773 Damn I had better go lube mine since they are no where to be found Linda S Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Used on ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/85-86-87-Throttle-Cable-Assembly-Toyota-Hilux-Pickup-Truck-4Runner-84-88-37/254537327361?_trkparms=aid%3D1110012%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOIPOST%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200420083544%26meid%3De4418867f63442e2bdec1cd5647ba19a%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D352936755327%26itm%3D254537327361%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2%26brand%3DToyota&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 1 hour ago, linda s said: .... your part number is 35520-22021   Are you sure?  https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~cable~assy~throttle~35520-22021.html  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 That's where I found it but it's discontinued on every other Toyota site I checked. Maybe they have some. I use that site to find the part numbers. As far as actually buying I can't really recommend them. Sometimes they are good and sometimes not. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 But I'm thrown off by the 89+ years in the applications. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 Yes I don't understand it either but it does come up for the dual wheel truck in 1986  https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/parts-list/1986-toyota-pickup/power_train_chassis/throttle_link_valve_lever_atm.html?Filter=(d=USA;1=22REC;3=T1;4=DLX;5=ATM;6=4HC;7=RCB;9=HVY;10=WT;12=EFI;13=IV;0=RN75L-SDTEA3W)&PNC=35520 Maybe if it fits later trucks too they do have it. I have no idea. Truth is I don't know why the first part number he found wouldn't work. For a regular truck but the front of our trucks is the same as a regular one. Shouldn't be a difference in length as far as I know Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BB8811 Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 I had originally went through and ordered the  35520-22021 one from Toyotapartsdeal only for them to tell me after waiting 3 days that it was no longer available. I have someone who possibly able to make me a new one based off the old broken one but would like to have that as a last resort. I am going to try and call my other local Toyota dealership and see if the parts person there is anymore helpful or could point me in another direction. The one on ebay looks like it will work too but I would rather get a new cable and not have to deal with this again. Thank you for everyones help. I orginally thought that the 3552035030 part number would work but gave up on it when the Toyota parts person told me it would not. I thought it should work because it is for an 84 truck but I will see what the dealer says tomorrow. Thank you again for all the help and everyone make sure you keep yours lubed up. -Brody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Ask the dealer if they have specs on the length of the cable and if the original part you thought would work is different that the one that's discontinued. If they can give you the exact length you need yes one can be made to fit Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Well I found the right cable. The actual correct part number for your rig. Only thing is it's in Dubai. Others on this site have ordered discontinued parts from them before with good results. Shipping is pretty cheap too, 15 bucks. Total is 68 dollars. Just in case your interested https://carmarka.com/en/toyota-cable-35520-35080 Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Basically you need to know the length it is the only thing that is important even if it's longer that's ok too short obviously won't work. The engines and transmissions were pretty much the same in the Toyotas so if the ends match and the cable is long enough they it should work. Try ebay they list a lot of Toyota cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2ndopinion Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I should look and see if the cable for my LS400 is the same.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 Yeah there is no magic it's just a cable pull one end the other moves the same.There was some differences in the mounting but pretty obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster87 Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 Hello all I apologize in advance if for revitalizing a such an old thread. I really appreciate the breadth of knowledge on here and im hoping someone can bestow some of that knowledge my way. I am taking off on a several month trip and am trying to take care of a few laundry list items on the rig before they become bigger problems. The transmission on my 85 sunrader (75,000 miles) has a small leak on what I have learned is referred to as the manual valve lever shaft seal. I believe that this leak has been present for a while, and although there has been a presence of fluid, I keep a close eye on the level and rarely if ever have to add any. I ordered a seal from the toyota dealership and hope it was the correct one because the guy at the counter was of very little help. My questions are A. Does anyone know the correct part number(?) so if I did get it incorrect I can quickly re-order the correct part. B. Has anyone had luck removing this seal without removing and or disassbling the transmission? And if so do you know what specialty tool(s) i will need to tackle the job? C. Any other tips and or things I should be aware of before diving in? D. Am I being overly cautious in thinking this is something that needs to happen now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 Here's the part I come up with. You do need 2 of them.  90311-11001 - Toyota Parts Deal Linda So is your Sunrader an 85 or 86. I think it makes a difference. Need production date to know if factory dual wheel or upgraded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 is that part used on both type of transmissions? I have a leak that I thought was the gasket, its not. Curious where my leak is coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster87 Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 40 minutes ago, linda s said: Here's the part I come up with. You do need 2 of them.  90311-11001 - Toyota Parts Deal Linda So is your Sunrader an 85 or 86. I think it makes a difference. Need production date to know if factory dual wheel or upgraded Its an 85' but the rear end was never taken care of by the original owner, I sourced out the full floater and installed it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster87 Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 (edited) I think that is actually the correct part, thanks Linda S you're a savior! Hopefully someone can help with some installation tips?? Edited May 5, 2021 by Rooster87 I added inaccurate info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 You can remove the seal with a small screw threaded into it and plyers. Drive the new one in with an deep socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster87 Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 1 hour ago, Maineah said: You can remove the seal with a small screw threaded into it and plyers. Drive the new one in with an deep socket. Oh yea that makes a lot of sense. Thank you! Should I pre-lubricate or pack the open side of that seal with anything before trying to press it in? All of the diagrams have only shown one as far as I can tell. Is this the case? Also I found this resource that could be very helpful for someone, it appears to be a digital copy of the factory service manual https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/18124477/a43d-transpdf This wasn't exactly helpful to me since it describes a complete tear down. Maybe this resource is already well known but I thought I would throw it out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 Your seal on this diagram is 35506F. It shows one at each end of the shaft. One being pressed into the housing and one where the lever goes over the shaft. Better to have 2 on hand then wait until your taking it apart and go oh damn that's where that other one goes. THROTTLE LINK & VALVE LEVER (ATM). Toyota | Toyota Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 Any idea where the leak on this one might be coming from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 I'm going to say it's where the trans cooler line where fit into the trans. The right angle fitting fits into the trans the nut on the fitting has a copper washer behind it. The washer maybe be fine the nut holds the fitting in place at the proper angle if it's loose it will leak. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted June 26, 2021 Share Posted June 26, 2021 Detention Cable. I know some members have had trouble finding this cable as it’s been discontinued. I pulled this quote from another Toyota site. I know nothing about the auto transmission but wanted to put it out here.  I recently rebuilt my 22r engine and while reinstalling the engine and auto. trans discovered my detent\kick down cable was not functioning. Upon further investigation found the ball on the end of the cable inside the transmission had worn off. Then, I also discovered Toyota has discontinued the 84-88 detent cable. After retro fitting a number of different cables discovered that the 1990-92 Toyota Land Cruiser Cable to fit into my 85 pickup and worked great. The cable is a little longer but once it is fasten to the hold down fitting on the intake manifold it works just as good as original. The part number for this cable is Parts Geek----1990-1992 Toyota Land Cruiser Automatic Transmission Kickdown Cable - Pioneer Cables CA-2015......  https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=Part+#:+CA-2015 or https://tinyurl.com/6mm32s7b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 (edited) Mechanic said a seal on the side is leaking. Just wondering if IÂ should bother with it or just let it be and keep topping the fluid off when low? Edited August 9, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 Did he give a price? If it's reasonable get it fixed. Slow leak can turn into a fast leak with no warning and tranny rebuild is very expensive. Couple of years ago I know of a woman who paid 4 grand in Oakland for one Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 (edited) No. I brought it to him to finish my pinion seal, change the wheel studs, fix the brakes and install the leaf springs. He supposedly fixed the pinion seal and changed the studs. He told me he didn’t want to install the leaf springs and really didn’t fix the brakes. I didn’t bother asking him about working on the transmission. I brought it to another shop who has had it for over a month and was complaining about having to remove the holding tank to remove the leaf springs and I tried to explain to them you can take them off without removing anything. They don’t service transmissions and I don’t want them to touch it anyways. They are suppose to fix the brakes and adjust the steering. Why don’t people want to work on these vehicles it seems anytime I try to bring it somewhere it turns into a huge ordeal. The rv is still in Fresno and I’m in the east Bay Area. I have to wait for the other shop to finish and drive it back with flat leaf springs and finish it myself. After that I have to bring it to a muffler shop and then maybe I will have someone quote me on the transmission. Sorry I know most of this post is not about my transmission, but working on this thing has been quite a task! Edited August 10, 2021 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_M Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 Hamkid,  Yes shops tend only specialize and do not get into other repairs. My rear transmission seal was leaking and I had to take that to a specialized shop for repair. As for the springs I'm going to use a shop that specializes in spring repair. I also worked with Les Schwab that will do my brakes, bearings and tires. I had to give them time up front to procure the parts then they will tell me bring it in.  I'm also going to replace the head gasket and timing chain, not sure if I'll do that myself or get a shop to do but again no-one is going to do it all, you have to work at it.  Good luck! Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 Both shops I brought it to claim to specialize in trucks, frames, and wheels. For some reason the shop it’s at now can’t seem to realize you have to remove the bushings to remove the shackles then it will jimmy out while barely hitting the holding tank. I’m not even a mechanic and I could do it. I’m sorry I’m done ranting about anything that’s not a transmission on this feed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 (edited) These old RVs are a ton of work, and I feel your pain, hamkid... I mean, I get a kick out of working on 'em and keeping things alive—man-vs-machine and all that. Also, don't know about you, but there's no way in hell I could ever afford to have somebody do all the work that's needed on this rig! (And mine's just a '91.) And like you've noticed, it's "hard to find good help," as they say, and not getting any easier.  I'm sure opinions vary, but I would never recommend a 30+ year old motorhome to anyone who's not at least a decent shade-tree mechanic (or has one or two in the family!). To the general public, I would say: If you don't have the necessary repair skills, health, and time to keep up with constant, ongoing repairs—then you're probably better off spending bigger money on a newer, nicer rig in the first place. Edited March 30, 2023 by Ctgriffi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 Well I would have finished everything myself except I had to leave the place I was working on it at. Everything was not finished and I had to leave it with a mechanic which is turning out to be horrible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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