Shoprat Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 I found out the Load Sensing Proportioning valve was leaking. The fluid was going in the boot on the valve. Then when the boot couldn't hold anymore fluid, it would seep down the link rod to the rear axle. It never showed a leak this way as the rod is also black. Does anyone know of a good place to order a new valve that is cheaper than the dealership ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolan Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Don't know of any aftermarket sources for an exact replacement valve, but there are many aftermarket valves available that could be plumbed in, most speed shops and or street rod shops sell different sytyles and types, most are manual adjustable to set the brake bias you want. Personally I would probably just eliminate or bypass it as the function is pretty well useless on a motorhome that is loaded down on the rear suspension already making the valve work in the full pressure setting as it is, they worked alright on the pickups they were used on originally that varied between empty to loaded to help control brake pressure to avoid rear wheel lockup when empty. Just my 2 pecso's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 What Nolan says, I've just put a big kink in the control rod so that I get full rear breaking all the time. My rear axle weight is heaver than most Toy pickups, so I figured I was OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picklebill Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 On our 18 foot Sunrader, the front wheels were locking up way before the rears, and then I realized that when I inflated the Firestone Ride Rite airbags, it lifts up the rear and the proportioning valve thinks there is no load in what it thinks is a pickup truck. I adjusted it for max pressure at the rear brake cylinders, but its still is not enough. Has anyone actually just removed the proportioning valve and does this work? Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 On our 18 foot Sunrader, the front wheels were locking up way before the rears, and then I realized that when I inflated the Firestone Ride Rite airbags, it lifts up the rear and the proportioning valve thinks there is no load in what it thinks is a pickup truck. I adjusted it for max pressure at the rear brake cylinders, but its still is not enough. Has anyone actually just removed the proportioning valve and does this work? Bill Well- I'm gonna find out ! I removed the link rod and the proportioning valve, then bypassed the brake line that bled off the "excess" rear fluid to the front brakes. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Bypassed ???? On my setup the valve just limits pressure to the rear, so a simple coupler would be all thats needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 Bypassed ???? On my setup the valve just limits pressure to the rear, so a simple coupler would be all thats needed. My valve had three lines attached. One from the master cylinder, one to the rear axle hose, and one going forward to the front brakes . The prop valve bled pressure off by putting it back into the front brake circuit. Because my valve was leaking and it really isn't needed anyway, I decided to eliminate the thing. I could connect the line from the master cylinder to the rear rubber hose with no problem, but the front brakes would leak badly if I left the bleed line open. There is a tee in the front brake circuit by the right front brake caliper hose frame support. One line comes from the master cylinder, one from the bleed line , and one going a few inches to the right front caliper hose. I disconnected the line from the master cylinder at the tee, removed the caliper line entirely, and then directly connected the master cylinder line to the caliper hose. This took the whole bleed line out of the circuit. So, guess my choice of words here was wrong. I didn't bypass the prop valve, I eliminated the whole set-up. Now I have just a plain, old fashioned brake system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 OK and how does your basic old fashioned brake system work??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 I tried it out today doing about 35 miles per hour on a gravel road and did a panic stop just to see what would happen. Straight line stop and didn't feel as though any wheel locked up. Tried it on pavement and with the slotted rotors and the new fully functional rear wheels the stopping distance is in my estimate, 30 percent better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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