TurboBernard Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Hello - I could use some advice on the best way to carry / tow an inflatable with outboard. I have a 1986 18' Sunrader 4x4 with 22 RE turbo-charged automatic. The axle is the 1 ton floating. The rear bumper has been extended by about 2' with heavy duty 2"x3" steel tubing to accommodate two plastic cargo boxes. Tying into these two channels, under the bumper I've welded another 2"x3" steel tube between the extensions and then welded a 2" hitch receiver to that. The hitch receiver is visible right under the bumper, not touching the bumper since that's only sheet metal. I would like to carry a 11' inflatable that weighs 95 lbs, a 15 hp outboard that weighs 115 lbs and gas weighing in at 40lbs. I'm looking at three options and would like to get some thoughts on the best approach. My criteria are: 1) what will be least stressfull/harmful the Sunrader; 2) what will be easiest to drive and handle (we sometimes like to go off on fire roads and find remote lakes. The options I'm considering are: Option A - purchase a cargo rack to fit into the 2" receiver and modify it to hold boat, engine, and gas. Weight including rack would be 300-310 lbs. Option B - build steel outboard engine mount to fit into 2" receiver. Weight including modified mount would be 125 lbs. Then build a stronger roof rack and carry inflatable and gas on roof (135 lbs on roof) Option C - use my Rackandroll aluminum trailer (weight 160lbs) and tow everything behind the Sunrader. Total tow weight, including trailer (460-470 lbs). Thanks for any thoughts or other options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Option C gives a tongue weight (if properly balanced) of less than 50 lb, and this in turn results in an increased rear axle load of about 100lb. Best structurally, but would sure hamper travel down fire roads. Option A places the full load's center of mass about 3 additional feet behind the bumper (12 inches for hitch and 2 more feet to centerline of load on the rack), and will increase the rear axle load by approximately 700-750 lb. In addition to this, the 2' frame extension would see an increased static bending moment of 1500+ ft lb (300+ at 2+3 feet), and an increased dynamic bending moment of 3000-4500 ft lb (200-300% after impact factor). Bad idea for the frame and the rear axle. Option B is bad because the roof has a hard time taking any sustained load, and it's already pretty high anyway. Loading questions are always a toughy. They're pretty close to the limit as it is, and there is of course, no free lunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBernard Posted August 24, 2009 Author Share Posted August 24, 2009 Thanks for the detailed response. I knew that the cargo carrier would add more weight I just didn't know the overall impact. Looks like the trailer is the best way to go aside from putting everything on the inside in the aisle and pretending its a linebacker along for the ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 Thanks for the detailed response. I knew that the cargo carrier would add more weight I just didn't know the overall impact. Looks like the trailer is the best way to go aside from putting everything on the inside in the aisle and pretending its a linebacker along for the ride. This is my first time on this forum but thought I would throw in my 2 bits worth. Just got back from a 4000 mile trip to AirVenture at Oshkosh, WI with our 84 Sunrader. It has the 22R engine and 4 speed. I have a cargo tray on a custom rear bumper that I made that carries my generator (100 pounds plus the weight of the tray). I welded an 1 1/4 inch receiver tube into the 2 inch tube and pulled a 4'x6' inclosed trailer the whole way. It does make it sit back a fair bit from the motorhome but pulled true. I carried 4 bikes, 10 gallons of gas and a First Up style canopy tent, along with some other odds and ends. I also have Air Ride suspension on the rear axel which helps keep things level. We didn't have any problem pulling the trailer, although you do notice the drag when you get quartering head winds and on this trip we did get down to 1st gear going over Wolf Creek Pass where usually we only get down to 2nd. If you would like any pictures I would be happy to send them to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 In addition to this, the 2' frame extension would see an increased static bending moment of 1500+ ft lb (300+ at 2+3 feet), and an increased dynamic bending moment of 3000-4500 ft lb (200-300% after impact factor).This really hits home at why big heavy objects shouldn't be added to the back of motorhomes that are already cantilevered way out past the rear axle. Watch out for the bumps! What about the front bumper? What kinds of nasty numbers and bad effects would that cause? I've seen many an offroad camper toting their motorcycles up front. Mostly because they had slide in campers and didn't want to block the back door prob tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nibs Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 We towed a small enclosed trailer for 10,000 miles behind our Sunrader last winter, the trailer weighed in at 1,000# when we left home, and in Seattle we added perhaps another 200#, the trailer was no bother at any time, except parallel parking. It was fine on all sorts of roads some as high as 12,000 ft. I did extend the tongue of the trailer an extra 12" so I could jackknife the trailer, you wont have any problems on dirt roads except if you need to turn round. If yours is an automatic, do not use top gear, unless you have a supply of trannies. Biggest problem with the extra wght is down hill, Just stay in the same gear that you used to go up when coming down. If I can afford it, I will put trailer brakes on before our next big trip. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 The only thing that worries me is the turbo. With a trailer its going to be working the engine harder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D. Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 We towed a small enclosed trailer for 10,000 miles behind our Sunrader last winter, the trailer weighed in at 1,000# when we left home, and in Seattle we added perhaps another 200#, the trailer was no bother at any time, except parallel parking. It was fine on all sorts of roads some as high as 12,000 ft. I did extend the tongue of the trailer an extra 12" so I could jackknife the trailer, you wont have any problems on dirt roads except if you need to turn round. If yours is an automatic, do not use top gear, unless you have a supply of trannies. Biggest problem with the extra wght is down hill, Just stay in the same gear that you used to go up when coming down. If I can afford it, I will put trailer brakes on before our next big trip. Tony You did not say what size your motor is. Also with a automatic did you add a cooler for the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freedom Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 I have my Zodiac deflated and rolled up on the roof along with the empty flexible fuel tank. This has not caused any problems at all. My 9.9 outboard just gets moved around. I dont have a permanent spot for it yet. I keep fuel in a metal jerry can by the doorway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tundrawolf Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 These are good things to know. I was going to suggest a very small and lightweight single axle trailer, having a small bed to hold it all, with tiedowns, etc. Maybe even fit it with some electric brakes for minimal stress on the rvs brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Melton Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 I don't understand why you want to carry 40 pounds of fuel for any distance. Can't you just carry an empty container and fill it when you are near your destination? Or, you could carry a siphon pump and borrow fuel from your Toy tank. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freedom Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Well the reason I carry gas for my little ol' 9.9 is due to the fact it is a 2 stroke. Sure I could just fill the tank and mix the oil every time I get to my destination but what would I do if I had gas left over when I decide to leave? Also a lot of the places I go i would not recommend buying gas... if you can even find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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