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thetoyotadude

Refrigerator recall?

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The fridges in these things predate the recall unless they were replaced with new 2 door models ones for some reason.

If it's not a 2 door, it's not in the recall.

If unsure, look for the SN on the unit.

Full text:

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Report Date : July 8, 2009 at 04:15 AM

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 06E076000

Equipment Brand Name / Part No. or Model No.: Production Dates:

DOMETIC / NDR1062 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM2652 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM2662 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM2663 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM2852 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM2862 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM3662 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM3663 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM3862 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

DOMETIC / RM3863 APR 01, 1997 - MAY 31, 2003

Manufacturer: DOMETIC CORPORATION Mfr's Report Date: AUG 28, 2006

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 06E076000 N/A

NHTSA Action Number: N/A

Component: EQUIPMENT:RECREATIONAL VEHICLE

Potential Number of Units Affected: 926877

Summary:

CERTAIN DOMETIC TWO-DOOR REFRIGERATORS MANUFACTURED BETWEEN APRIL 1997 AND MAY 2003: SERIAL NOS. 713XXXXX THROUGH 752XXXXX; 801XXXXX THROUGH 852XXXXX; 901XXXXX THROUGH 952XXXXX; 001XXXXX THROUGH 052XXXXX; 101XXXXX THROUGH 152XXXXX; 201XXXXX THROUGH 252XXXXX; 301XXXXX THROUGH 319XXXXX, INSTALLED IN CERTAIN RECREATIONAL VEHICLES AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND SOLD AS AFTERMARKET EQUIPMENT. A FATIGUE CRACK MAY DEVELOP IN THE BOILER TUBE WHICH MAY RELEASE A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF PRESSURIZED COOLANT SOLUTION INTO AN AREA WHERE AN IGNITION SOURCE (GAS FLAME) IS PRESENT.

Consequence:

THE RELEASE OF COOLANT UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS COULD IGNITE AND RESULT IN A FIRE.

Remedy:

THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF RECREATIONAL VEHICLES THAT HAD THE REFRIGERATORS INSTALLED AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND DOMETIC WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF THE AFTERMARKET REFRIGERATORS. DOMETIC WILL INSTALL A SECONDARY BURNER HOUSING FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN BETWEEN APRIL AND JUNE 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DOMETIC AT 888-446-5157.

Notes:

CUSTOMERS MAY CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY: 1-800-424-9153); OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

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I am tod by old experienced RV'r friends of mine that fridges in RV's rarely last more than 10 years..And that woud be under perfect level conditions and with regular use. Hope that gives you something to go by...I am having to replace mine and when I do will keep it plugged in and going most of the time on low. If there is a strong ammonia smell when running... it is gonzo...

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I am tod by old experienced RV'r friends of mine that fridges in RV's rarely last more than 10 years..And that woud be under perfect level conditions and with regular use. Hope that gives you something to go by...I am having to replace mine and when I do will keep it plugged in and going most of the time on low. If there is a strong ammonia smell when running... it is gonzo...

Mine is now about 23 years old. It seems to be going strong

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We have a 1982 rig with the original fridge and it still works fine. In our previous rig, the fridge was 30 years old when we sold it, and was still working fine. The important thing is to never run them if they are not level. We have always turned them off when we are not using the rig and that does'nt seem to hurt them.

Bill

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There really is not too much that can go wrong other then rust and running them when they are not level. Mine is 23 years old and will freeze stuff in the lower part if the weather is in the 40s. Yeah I have to clean the gas tip once in awhile but that's about it. I had a full size gas fridge in an apartment I rented years ago that the owner said was 45 years old.

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I went to check out the harbor freight generator.

Its a small engine hooked to a car alternator. Definitely.

I mean a chinese alternator no doubt. Larger than I thought it would be. I have seen the same one sold as 1100 watts from other sources

Looks good and putting a cooler over it for weather protection is boss. I'm just afraid all the winos will. Open it looking for beer

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My Dometic in my 1973 Travco works fine and has never had to be serviced ??????? . When playing festivals every weekend I let it run on gas full time...........never ran it on 110??????????..I bought it in '90, so it is at least 24 years old.........large unit single door.

This truck is now for sale on the Travco site, if anyone is interested

NORCOLD has a LIST of recalls......I just picked up a used one for one of my Chinooks & sure enough, when I checked the model & serial # it was on the recall list ...<<fire hazard on gas DO NOT USE.>>>>....I called the Norcold #....gave them the model & serial number.. They were most helpful.

Verified that the recall fix was done in 2006 by 4 seasons.....I called corporate first, & they gave me another # that handles only RECALLS..Donnie

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I am tod by old experienced RV'r friends of mine that fridges in RV's rarely last more than 10 years..And that woud be under perfect level conditions and with regular use. Hope that gives you something to go by...I am having to replace mine and when I do will keep it plugged in and going most of the time on low. If there is a strong ammonia smell when running... it is gonzo...

10 years of actual age or 10 years of continuous use? Either way - that figure does not reflect what I've experienced with them. I still have a used Japanese three-way I got in 1979 and it still works fine. Came out of a big truck camper and is now used in a summer camp - every summer. The OEM Dometic in my 1973 Jayco still works well. I bought a 1977 and 1978 Toyota Chinooks in the past few years. Both still have the original Dometic 3-ways and both were pretty easy to clean up and get going. Burners needed cleaning and electric switches bad. Just minor issues. I just bought a rotted out 1980 Coachmen truck camper that I'm stripping for parts. The big original Dometic 3-way is the only thing in it that works. I suspect many 3-ways get condemned for minor issues.

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Hello JD, maybe you have a tip for me.. I would love to keep the 3 way Dometic in my 78, but I've tried all the tricks that were suggested on you tube & by friends...super leveled the unit, took it out inverted, tapped on the lines, looked all over for ammonia residue, cleaned out the gas orfices, has a nice flame, flue is clean.. I just bought a used Norcold to replace it.but would love to keep the original...The Norcold is a 323, the cheapest one that they make

& I don't really like it...got any ideas?............thanks for reading , Donnie

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What "festivals" and what are you "playing"?



Hello Zach, I play Bluegrass Guitar & play with a regional band near home, within a couple of hundred miles..I quit the band that I was playing with last 4th of July due to some trivial internal typical band BS & am now homeless, I MEAN bandless :-).....The front man just called me last week & asked if I want to play a few gigs this summer as the hot shot banjo player that was causing the conflict has left...I said I would.

I also play some acoustic Blues with a local friend of mine..Coffee house stuff...Not a big deal...just a LOT OF FUN...thanks for asking..Donnie

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Hello JD, maybe you have a tip for me.. I would love to keep the 3 way Dometic in my 78, but I've tried all the tricks that were suggested on you tube & by friends...super leveled the unit, took it out inverted, tapped on the lines, looked all over for ammonia residue, cleaned out the gas orfices, has a nice flame, flue is clean.. I just bought a used Norcold to replace it.but would love to keep the original...The Norcold is a 323, the cheapest one that they make

& I don't really like it...got any ideas?............thanks for reading , Donnie

Pretty much if the boiler is hot is should work. Beyond that a new cooler unit.

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Nice. I'm a banjo player but definitely not "hot shot".

One of the reasons I bought my camper was to use at weekend jams where all the old folks have nice huge campers and I was sleeping in the back of my truck...Now I'm not quite so jealous.

The Chinook would be perfect for hitting some of the big festivals with jam scenes, or for if I got solid enough to play solo.

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Speaking about fridges I just install a D/C fridge for a friend today. I had all ways wondered about 12 volt compressors well guess what they aren't! Low and behold there is a little inverter inside that runs the compressor found this out when I pulled the wrong cover to land the 12 volt wiring. The compressor is 120 volt A/C I never could understand how they got the power figure so low on 12 volts now it all makes sense it's a very efficient dorm fridge with it's own inverter. Am I convinced? Nope I'll stick with my gas one it's much easier to carry gas than it is to make electricity I know my fridge will run a month or more on a 20 # tank.

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Yep. Running on "high" almost constantly, and using my stovetop and occasional heat from the furnace, and my 20# tank lasts almost a month. And costs only around $7 to fill.

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My driveway is on an angle, so I shouldn't even run my dometic 3 way fridge on 110v while it's not level? Or is that ok? Sometimes I hook up the night before and get the fridge cold before travel. Does it need to be level running on electricity too?

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My driveway is on an angle, so I shouldn't even run my dometic 3 way fridge on 110v while it's not level? Or is that ok? Sometimes I hook up the night before and get the fridge cold before travel. Does it need to be level running on electricity too?

Unfortunately yes. The problem with off level is the ammonia in the cooling unit doesn't circulate properly and crystals form and clog the pipes. It doesn't matter what source is heating it. Is the angle side to side or front to back. I can usually get mine level enough with the air bags, adding or removing air and some simple crank up levelers. Lay down some boards on your driveway, buy some of those yellow leveling blocks. If you use the same space all the time for your camper it's worth it to set it up so it's an easy drive on reasonably level space.

Linda S

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They have been making changes to the 12v compressors in the last few years to make them use less power so they can run more efficiently on solar. So the old units are not necessarily the same as those in previous years.

I will have to discuss what you said about the converter in them with a local dealer in my neighborhood who sells and services the units that have Danfoss compressors. It will be interesting to see if that is still the case with the newer compressors such as the BD 35 series that is more efficient than previous technology and the newest model the BD micro. Danfoss was recently bought out and is now a company called Secop but for now they are using some crossover names to avoid confusion.

The new micro sized compressor is 60 percent the size of the BD 35 and uses less power. They are using it to power travel boxes of 14 to 18 liter capacity. These are not thermoelectric units, they can be used as freezers. They are more energy efficient than previous versions of small portable 12 volt fridges. For now though it only looks as if Webasto is using that micro compressor. Seems like a good choice if you don't need a large fridge, want to be off grid on solar panels and don't have the room for a large battery bank.

The Engel company that makes 12v fridges for recreation also has a different style compressor they call a swing motor that is energy efficient.

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I am told by old experienced RV'r friends of mine that fridges in RV's rarely last more than 10 years..And that would be under perfect level conditions and with regular use. Hope that gives you something to go by...I am having to replace mine and when I do will keep it plugged in and going most of the time on low. If there is a strong ammonia smell when running... it is gonzo...

I've got seven three-way refrigerators all working fine. The oldest is a Japanese-made Trav'ler that was made in1969. My newest is a Dometic made in 1986. I have three Dometic RM211s from 1976-78 Toyota Chinooks. Also a bigger Dometic from my 1971 Jayco that works great. I also have a German-made propane RV unit made in 1962. It also works. Where does your "old experienced RV friend" get his info from? I have repaired many of these propane units with minor issues. I have never had one that needed an entire cooling unit

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About angles . . we rarely if ever are able to find a flat-level camping spot and I never jack up our camper to make it level. So far, all my propane refrigerators have worked fine on slight inclines. My general rule-of-thumb has been - if the camper is level enough to sit in and sleep in, it's good enough for the refrigerator. I've never had my RVs so level that the bubble-indicators said I was "good to go." I bought my 1971 Jayco back in 1979 and it has a big Dometic three-way in it. I've had it on ground so uneven it would not cool - and I'd have to stick a board under a tire just to get the frig working. Been using that refrigerator for 35 years and haven't ruined it yet. Seems my record is pretty damn good considering others claim these units only last 10 years.

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