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1995 3.4L 5sp 4x4 Bajarader (Put the sawzall down)


bajadulce

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Those peltier coolers are a great deal less expensive that's for sure. Do you use yours as an auxiliary fridge to your propane one or just for road trips in your car/truck for snacks/drinks? The 52qt Kooltron sounds like a great deal and would definitely do great for keeping beer and soda nice and cold (the important stuff right!). Not sure if I like the idea of chicken or milk sitting for a few days in 45 degrees (85-40). The amp draw looks about equivalent to a compressor driven fridge as well?

Derek, would I need a key to get to the key if it resided inside the compartment door? You can't latch or unlatch the door without a key.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a thought, if you have a friend helping, and if it is a "LSD, limited slip differential" / "posi traction differential" where as Eric suggests that one (1) tire revolution will supply the ratio results, http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

Try rotating the tire ten (10) revolutions for better accuracy, while counting the number of turns / spins on the drive shaft. The results could easily be divided by 10 by simply moving the decimal one place to the left in the results.

39.0 = 3.90

41.0 = 4.10

45.6 = 4.56

48.8 = 4.88

52.9 = 5.29

you wont have a limited slip differential unless someone installed it aftermarket.

Toyota didnt offer limited slips in their trucks or SUVs they did however offer front and rear electric lockers in 93-97 Landcruisers and in the rear of some Tacomas/4Runners 96 and up

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Those peltier coolers are a great deal less expensive that's for sure. Do you use yours as an auxiliary fridge to your propane one or just for road trips in your car/truck for snacks/drinks?

We use ours more as a heater, works well with Meatball subs.

WME

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  • 2 months later...

2 members have inquired about the latch/lock mechanism and so uploaded a few pictures. The deadlock and latching mechanism fit into a door frame just like a standard door w/ a recess etc. I believe the door was made a tad wider as well. Sorry all of this was so long ago. These pics aren't the best, but hope gives an idea.

Ended up buying one of those glow-in-the-dark scissor ladders as suggested by Randy for use when camper is on the truck. It's mounted in a way that it can fold under the truck when not in use.

Here's a picture of the mounting system finally came up with as well. A heavy gauge piece of aluminum L bracket is bolted to the backside of the perimeter floor joists. This bracket is then bolted to some angle iron that is welded to the flatbed. Alignment is relatively easy as the camper can shimmy a bit when freely supported by jacks.

Added some more paint for fun as I really like Terry's (WME) 2 toned rig. Camper doesn't look so tall (9'6"" to solar panels) with the two tones or so it seems to me.

Nothing really new to add these past few months other than just tightening things down on the interior for road use as well as gathering up all the camping gear and finding the best place to store things.

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Like 2 tone do ya? You have a perfect styling line at the dividing joint, make the whole bottom the color as the hatches. You could even use the cab color and a few stripes.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Kevin:

Thnx. The interior was finished for the most part last year. Tho recently I built a new table out of ABS pipe that swings under the back window when not in use. Someday hope to be able to respond to your "Real world MPG's figures wanted" thread over at Expo's hardsided campers. I doubt this rig will get the #'s some of those full size diesel trucks get, but hoping for the high teens! The truck without the shell gets about 23ish highway which seems decent for full size 4x4 truck... tho I do drive like a grandma.

Terry:

Ya thnx I really enjoy the 2 tone green. I did add a black pin stripe to match the black cab as you suggested. Did I read somewhere that you've bought a 2nd motorhome (Class C 30' ish?) Sounds luxurious.

David:

Thnx, the project is definitely custom and homebuilt. You, Andy (Flatspin), Stephen, and of course Shandamac are the artistic bunch on here and enjoy checking out your personal touches. Wish I had just a little of that creative flair you guys have. Don't know how to classify my customizations... definitley not "artistic".

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Ya got a little bigger one. A 26ft class A, only 10mpg, but it has 6 storage bins and a cargo capacity of 2500lbs and 70 gallons of fresh water with 40 gal ea black/gray tanks. Did a 6500 mile 30 day trip with it this summer. From Wy to ST Augustine Fl and back via every tourist trap we find, including Graceland. The larger storage and freshwater came in real handy as we could Walmart for 4 days before a holding tank dump. The 60 gallon fuel tank is nice too, that is until you have to fill it.

WME

Terry:

Ya thnx I really enjoy the 2 tone green. I did add a black pin stripe to match the black cab as you suggested. Did I read somewhere that you've bought a 2nd motorhome (Class C 30' ish?) Sounds luxurious.

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That sounds like a really comfy rig. The extra cargo capacity, space, storage, and fresh water/holding capacity would seem ideal for touring. Maybe you can tow a small car for longer trips?

I took my disc sander to the fiberglass again today ... had some extra PVC from some gardening work we did :)

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Buckets of water w/ string holding frame in place/level.

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1/2" pipe passes thru 3/4" fittings forming nice rust free hinges!

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No turning back now.

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Some extra knobs for hanging things like towels, wetsuits, fishing rods.. blah blah

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view from inside. Look at all that shade on table!

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support block for legs.

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The reed can be rolled up and put in a carrying bag. Used this type of material for years for shade and works well (prob better than tarps) as it can hold up to wind really well, breathes, and doesn't make much noise flapping around on those windy nights. Cheap too.

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The main awning is a little more involved (and substantially beefier) Basically it flips over the camper and rides high so that it clears the door while allowing some decent pitch.

So lots of "plumbing" in my camper now! Awnings, gutter, table, mirrors.

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Plan to rebuild the front hatch out of PVC pipe and FRP as not crazy with the current brass hinges and redwood frame. Think I can do lighter with PVC. Might even build a storage box for the rear out of PVC. If had the space, I'd build an entire camper framed of PVC, rigid insulation sandwiched between frp just to do it.

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I have normal rv pull down awnings. Very handy for easy setup. I drive a 40 ft bus for a living, so a 26 ft is easy to get around in. Some times parking is a problem. While in the French Quater I just put monery in two parking meters. A normal toy would have to do the same. Your shorty wouldn't

You homestead in one spot for awhile, so your idea is very good, whats 15 more min setup when your going to be there a week? Your replacement "canvas" is way cheaper too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hey thnx John. What's nice about the Flickr site, is you don't have to read all the blabbering!

Terry:

26' must feel like driving a car for you compared to the 40' bus.

Ya 15 minute setup sounds about right. The 2 awnings over the back windows are very simple, but the main awning is a little more involved and could easily take 15 minutes on its own. The awnings didn't quite turn out as aesthetically pleasing as I had envisioned, but they work. They're relatively light and cheap that's for sure. Definitely one-of-a-kind and not bought, which is always fun. :)

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After spending many days in hot, very miserable places, may I recommend Camo Netting for your big shade. It shades well and the wind doesn't bother it very much. Letting it hang on the sides for even more shade It comes in different shapes. Should be cheap at a surplus store

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Those nettings are great. I owned something similar and seem to recall it was sold in different UV protections similar to sunscreen? A friend suggested doubling up and using both the screen and rollout reed/bamboo.

@15 minute setup:

Wife didn't like the idea of the smaller awnings being permanent so had to spend another 10 bucks on PVC pipe/fitting and come up w/ a new design. Now, all the crossmembers slide onto pipe that then slides into the "hinges". Pic of all the dissassembled pieces to come another date.

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The "real Camo Netting" is rated on RF reflectivity, infrared blocking, and pattern. Don't know about UV :calm: You would want winter or snow patern.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well Crap! The truck's paperwork states 7K GVWR, but the door stamp 5.5K. This was one of the first things I asked about. The seller read me the paperwork over the phone and I too just glanced @ it when I bought the car. I had also done a quick google search for "GVWR 1995 Toyota" prior to looking into the car and it too came up as 7K. Turns out, only the 4x2 Xtra cab is rated at 7K. The 4x4 is a mere 5.5K. So I've lost 1.5K worth of payload with this oversight/mismatched paperwork which is pretty devestating for what I had planned.

The smaller 94 truck had a GVWR of 6K and so I didn't question the 7K paperwork of the "bigger" 95.

I'm a little bummed about this. I put a lot of effort into making this shelter as light as possible, but the truck end of the project has been the weak link. First it was the crappy 3VZE, now it's a GVWR 500#'s less than the smaller truck! Ya, the truck rides great, is stable, quiet, relatively peppy, and roomy as heck, but I probably can only legally haul a few surfboards, a pair of shorts, pillow, and a blanket.

The point of owning a motorhome, is the luxury to be able to bring along a lot of goodies! Even at 7K, this kind of long term adventure is probably cutting it close, but seemed doable. A 5.5K limit is as stated above, is pretty deflating at this point.

Anywho... I'm going to start a 2nd thread to continue this discussion and will link back to it here: What's your rig's weight FULLY LOADED, and do you care if it's over the legal limit?

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Weigh it and then go get the door sticker from a 4x2 and install. Then you will have 7k truck :clown2:

Check some PN and see what difference there is in springs, shocks and brakes. That will allow some real comparisons and let you figure out how much you would be over in reality.

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@ altering the tags! :)

Wouldn't be the first time I fudged some numbers when it came to registering/owning vehicles... (Did I just say that?)

I was just letting out some steam at being so lazy and not checking the door tag when I bought this truck. I'm not really that frazzled by the fact that I prob won't fall into the "legal" limits now. It's the same truck regardless of these new findings.

I made this rig 2' smaller to shed some weight + just make it be able to fit on the truck a little easier. And there's a lot of things that could have been done differently to be sure, but it seems to have worked out ok in the end. I just find it rather funny that I went to a "bigger truck" and got shafted 500 #'s less payload... Tho to be fair, I just assume my 94 v6 was a 6K GVWR. I'm now reading that toy 4x4's are typically 5.5K max, not 6K.

There are plenty of mid 80's & 90's full size diesel trucks out there that could have easily been candidates for this shell with tons of payload, towing, and equivalent if not better gas mileage. Reliable as a toyota tho? And there's the catch.

I've read that my truck is actually made by a subsidiary of Toyota called the Hino company. Which is kinda interesting.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Steve, What type of paint are you using on your Sunrader RV after doing mods?

Roy in Florida

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Steve, I have a few questions when you get a chance please...

1) I see you used $30 a gallon Rustoleum gloss white paint with "hemp" tint. Did you roll it or spray it?

2) Do you remember the brand of the primer you used?

3) How thick is the original fiberglass body of the Sunrader?

4) Regarding post #77 on page 1 of this thread where you glassed in the area where the front windows were... Its confusing when I look at the photos because it looks like you cut off the front over-cab area where the windows were thus making the bed area much smaller. Is that what you did? Did you glass the sheets in place with polyester resin or epoxy? You said you laminated two FRP sheets together and then glassed two layers of cloth on to that. What kind of cloth did you use? Was it mat, or was it 'S' or 'E' cloth? And what weight was the cloth?

5) How thick is that R-Tech foam insulation? Did you glue on to the fiberglass with Liquid Nails?

6) What is the white paneling made out of that you used in your first version and how did you adhere it to the walls/foam insulation? Just asking because I don't see wood stringers on the wall surfaces.

7) Did you replace the roof because it was too rotted from rain?

Thanks

Steve

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Been on vacation so took awhile to respond:

@Giant:

Eventually some lightweight storage would be nice for underside, yes. Am about to build a fiberglass box for the rear of the camper out of PVC and FRP to hold all the awning materials (poles, screening etc) plus some basic things like rake & shovel that I don't want to carry indoors. Maybe even dirty clothes.

@Roy/Steve

Yes the Rustoleum High Gloss paint sold @ Home Depot in liquid form. Rolled on w/ foam roller. Paint has held up well including sheen. The plan is to paint every 5 years or so depending on how beat up the camper gets while in use. With as much bodywork as this entailed, there were plenty of scratches, dings and waves that never got the full prep attention as ran out of patience as you can imagine. And so some of those might get fixed next go.

Rustoleum Primer sold in the gallon can was used as well (rusty metal brown as they were out of gray) applied w/ a roller. This primer coat was then wet sanded w/ 400 before the 2 coats of Gloss rolled on. This type of paint is very thin and self-levels very well. This is the 1st time I've rolled on an "automotive style" finish and was skeptical, but had freinds paint sailboats w/ rollers and was impressed w/ results. It is a camper after all bottom line. Not a show car.

No idea how thick sunrader fiberglass is, but its pretty darn heavy and prob could have been made thinner. Being "shot" with a chopper gun tho, I'm sure the thickness and quality varies depending on the worker. Here's best pic have of thckness which doesn't really show much detail:

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@ front windows:

I think read somewhere that there were 2 sizes of windows for the sunrader (the older ones being larger I believe)? Mine happen to be the 1980 syle and maybe the huge void including the center piece removed make it look as tho the overhead cab dimensions have been altered, but they havn't. True, the overlap of the clamshell construction is gone as is the side window moved further forward w/ the absence of the wrap around. But still the same stock interior overhead dimensions.

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@laminating 2 sheets of FRP together:

Never did that, but that's a great idea and would have worked well! Didn't think of that. For the roof panel and the panel that covered the window, 2 layers of matted glass were added to the roughed up textured side applied w/ a roller. Sorry no idea of the thickness (a friend uses it for a waterproofing business on decks) Maybe 8oz? Its pretty standard looking if there is such a thing. Not the woven, but chopped up looking mat. For the majority of fiberglassing, used cheap Home Depot polyester resin. For the roof, floor, and wrap-around window panel, diluted the resin w/ some acetone for roller application otherwise used straight w/ brush.

Here's picture of roof panel w/ 2 layers of glass rolled on drying in the sun:

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Used 2 sizes of R-Tech for insulation. They sell 2 sizes at Home Depot. The majority of use was the thicker for walls and immediate ceiling. The thinner was used in the overhead compartment ceiling as well as sandwiched under the additional frp subfloor below the mattress. Also the 2 transitional areas rear and forward ceiling.

No, didn't bother gluing any of the foam to the walls, but it prob would have been a good idea. The foam fits extremely snug and tight and there just didn't seem a need. Also the R-tech has this layer of plastic that might delaminate anyways on the one side if glued to. I just used it as one would in a home building project. Condensation between the foam and shell? I don't think so as it is very tight fitting as mentioned. But it wouldn't hurt to use glue that's for sure.

The first go around before cutting the camper in half, the walls were made of cheap laun that was used identical to the now FRP interior walls. It was glassed around the perimeter (ceiling, floor, seams etc) and there was no need for any stringers. The cabinetry, windows, and benches seem to do a good job keeping it from "bowing" out if that's a concern. There really wasn't any need for additional wood stringers and the walls feel very solid. Yes, the ceiling and wrap-around window replacement panel have studs and beams that the interior panels are glued and screwed to. The 2 transition areas use "nailing surfaces" in the form of PVC pipe as well. The 2nd go around, FRP panels made more sense for all the fiberglassing and was much easier to work w/ than the laun.

The roof was replaced originally because an AC unit had severly damaged the rear ceiling:

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And the 2nd go around it was redone for several reasons. One being that the camper was cut in half and both the floor and roof being removed made it simpler to join the 2 halves. Also, the camper would be portable and be able to stand on its own so the floor needed joists and some structure. This meant the already cramped interior headroom was going to be even shorter. And so the roof was redesigned as it was with a little inspiration borrowed from the SuperCamper's roof lines. I believe the interior was measured to be 6'3"? I haven't met anyone who can't stand upright in the camper.

Hope that answers all.

Thnx. Always appreciate the interest/feedback.

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Nice job on the Sunrader, can we see finished pictures of the skylight/hatch over the sleeping area. Does it open? I like the way you fixed the low, sloping roof over the sleeping area.

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Steve has a ton of photos in his Flickr account. See the link to it in his signature.

Nice job on the Sunrader, can we see finished pictures of the skylight/hatch over the sleeping area. Does it open? I like the way you fixed the low, sloping roof over the sleeping area.

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Hey Steve, thanks for being so generous with your time in sharing all of this information about your project here. I might be buying a fixer-upper 84 18'er Sunrader tomorrow and might gut it so this thread with all your photos and descriptions has been really helpful in figuring out how I should proceed if I do buy this.

I have a few more questions when you have the time please...

1) How smooth did the Rustoleaum finish turn out from using a roller? I assume its not nearly as smooth as if you sprayed it, right?

2) How long has it been since you applied the Rustoleaum and do you think it has lost any of its shininess since you rolled it? Is the place you store your Sunrader outside and exposed to the elements? Have you applied wax to it?

3) If I gut the Sunrader and start over, I'm a little concerned about upper cabinets falling off from being driven on long washboard Baja roads. Do you think screwing the uppers into horizontal 1 x 2's that have been glued to the inside of the coach with epoxy or Liquid Nails would work to keep the cabinets from falling down? Just concerned about NOT having the 1 x 2's pull away from the inside...

4) I don't remember now if you discussed this already (and if you did then tell me and I'll do a search on this thread), but what did you replace the sub-floor with? Is the bottom of the coach and the subfloor starting from the outside like this? Solid fiberglass Sunrader coach bottom with 3/4" plywood or 3/4" particleboard and then some kind of flooring?

Thanks again.

Steve

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  • 2 months later...

Heya Steve. Been meaning to respond, but just been so preoccupied.

1) How smooth did the Rustoleaum finish turn out from using a roller? I assume its not nearly as smooth as if you sprayed it, right?

As mentioned, was very skeptical of "rolling" on an auto finish, but was floored by the results. Again my thinking is that it is meant to be a camper, not a show car. Knowing that I can easily touch up any major scratch or ding by simply breaking out my can of paint and roller is comforting. Google the $50 dollar paint job Derek always alludes to and you can make it as "smooth" as you want it to be depending on elbow grease exerted. Make a test run on a similar surface (prime/wetsand primer etc) and you might be surprised as well.

2) How long has it been since you applied the Rustoleaum and do you think it has lost any of its shininess since you rolled it? Is the place you store your Sunrader outside and exposed to the elements? Have you applied wax to it?

Never waxed it, rig is in full sunlight every day for past few years (3 I believe?). Pressure washed it last year, but other than that has held up decent enough. Has lost a little sheen, but plan to repaint every 5+ years or so to pickup some of the bodywork missed as well as any dings/scratches from general use.

3) If I gut the Sunrader and start over, I'm a little concerned about upper cabinets falling off from being driven on long washboard Baja roads. Do you think screwing the uppers into horizontal 1 x 2's that have been glued to the inside of the coach with epoxy or Liquid Nails would work to keep the cabinets from falling down? Just concerned about NOT having the 1 x 2's pull away from the inside...

You should definitely fasten them somehow! I fiberglassed galvanized light weight L-framing brackets to the ceiling and then nut and bolted cabinets to these about every 2 ft. There is also a ledger. The doors and "shelf" are 1/4", the frames 3/4". It's a challenge to refrain from stuffing these cabinets without regard to weight as the overhead storage is just so convenient. But really try to stick to keeping the lightest stuff up there. Save the pots, pans, and batteries for the floor! :P

Dunno what to say about washboards, 10 miles now and then won't be an issue, but after 100+ miles of washboard, there's not much you can do... things WILL fall apart.


4) I don't remember now if you discussed this already (and if you did then tell me and I'll do a search on this thread), but what did you replace the sub-floor with? Is the bottom of the coach and the subfloor starting from the outside like this? Solid fiberglass Sunrader coach bottom with 3/4" plywood or 3/4" particleboard and then some kind of flooring?

I don't have many detailed pictures of the subfloor, but it is 1/2" 5ply plywood glued/screwed to redwood 1x joists that are then encased in a strip of fiberglass cloth. The topside of the plywood (inside of rig) is then covered in 1 layer of glass as well. The underside is painted w/ normal house paint. Also note that the shell'rides on a flatbed and thus the subfloor is shielded from road wear. A sheet of FRP glued/glassed to the underside might make a cheap and durable road guard otherwise.

Steve, Did you fill the channel left behind after removing that dorky trim piece with Bondo?

I assume you're describing the metal trim that went around the camper where the 2 halves joined together? If so, then I "cut" that overlap out entirely. Basically the 2 halves sit on each other and are melded together as one piece (not overlapping) as seen in that picture with my fingers separating the 2 halves.

Camper has now been through 3 winters without any sign of leakage. It is currently sitting on blocks in the alley as have needed the truck for some errands. Unfortunately another year goes by without returning to Baja and so am a little disappointed in that. The truck was fully tested out and ready this year, but other crap seemed to get in the way.

Have a few fun modification ideas planned for the spring/summer.

thnx for the interest, feedback and support. Hope your project is coming along well! :)

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Thanks for answering my questions and mentioning the $50 paint job (and thanks to Derek too!). Amazing. Who woulda thunk it? I just spent the last hour reading about it and that is how I'm going to paint mine. I saw photos of cars three years later and they still looked great. And yes, I really like how easy it is to touch up stuff later.

I have more questions but will give you a call soon.

Thanks again.

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi folks, I'm new here. Although, I have read this entire thread today... It has been a great read and very informative. Thank you Steve AKA Bajadulce for taking the time to document your build. Also, Thank you Steveo for recently asking some of the same questions I was wondering about regarding Bajadulce's build. The reason I am here is last week I bought a Sunradar canopy off of Craigslist. It was disgusting looking when I bought since it has been sitting in a farm field in Orting, WA. After spending $40 ad the local pressure washer trying to get all of the green moss and alge off, it is starting to look bearable. The reason I bought this is because the entire back wall lifts up like an awning so I can park 2 quads or my lifted Golfcart when I head to the dunes with NO TRAILER. I was amazed when I seen this thing because I have never seen anything like it. In fact, the old timer I bought it from had made a sliding extension to the cabover which protrudes back to the center of the big middle window. So, technically, this thing can sleep 4 people up top and 2 in the bed of the truck if worst came to worst. This thing is a shell with carpeting glued to all of the surfaces. It looked like this may have been some kind of actual camper because it has some aluminum patches on the sides. However, it does sit on the truck bed. On the bottom that sits on the bed rails is a wrap around 2x4 pressure treated. I was told that he did this because the cab overhang was hitting the truck door swing and not allowing him to open them so he raised it up.

After reading past posts about vehicle widths and marker lights, I measured the width of the canopy and it comes out to 74" yet the back door requires the removal of the truck tailgate.

1. Is there anyone else who has one of these?

2. If so, what years where they made?

3. How many were produced?

As it is, I plan on using this as a make shift man cave / garage / camper. So far I have designed and put together a flooring system of polymer sheeting custom cut to layed in the truck bed so I don't have to feel the ribs of the truck bed. Then, I used some felt covered interlocking gym mats which are made out of used tires that I also custom fit into the truck bed. Now, it feels like I am walking on carpet barefoot. The great thing about both products is they will not mold. Because everything has to be convertible to fit my Golfcart or 2 quads in the bed, Has anyone else done this?

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Welcome to the boards here!

Check this out. The bed is standard that way... Mr. G made it that way.

Here is mine, I'm over in Kirkland, WA... just picked this up last weekend or so.

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5683

1. I own one

2. Mine is a 1977 there is a tag drivers side front left

3. no clue, but they come up here and there on craigslist.

Congrats and start a thread with some pictures!!!

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  • 11 months later...

Just got back from a near 2K round trip to Grand Canyon. Should have took some pictures, but didn't. Should have kept a fuel mileage record as well. Truck drove great 60-65 mph easily with plenty of pedal left if needed. 55ish on the big grades passing every motorhome in sight! :) Got around 300 mile range per 20 gallons. Never saw another Toy motorhome entire trip.

Left on a Wed night of torrential rains and no leaks to report w/ driving in what amounted to 5 hours of nonstop rain to 1st stop in Santa Barbara.

Checked the oil level several times, but it never changed. Am very pleased w/ 3.4L engine's performance.

Left the 100+ pounds of camper jacks at home as decided was never going to take camper off seeing as this was more of a touring trip than a park and stay excursion.

Got to thinking how fun it might be to build a trailer for the camper for small weekend type trips rather than have to jack up and put on the truck everytime. Basically the camper would have a dual setup and use the same mounting brackets for both flatbed and trailer. Trailer for shorter or touring type travel and piggy back for extended stay trips. What do ya think?

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