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ok so as you may recall... my clutch died...

I finally worked up the money to replace the clutch and a trusted friend/mechanic is going to help me with the repair...

I have looked at every clutch from OEM Toyota Kits that include the flywheel shipped for $160

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=350183635878

To Racing clutches (some say they wear out faster because they are expected to be replaced more often?)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=170314355655

To "Heavy Duty" Jegs and Zoom Clutches for $200.00 - 400.00

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...06_282213013___

I need some good advice fast guys

My yodahome has been stuck on a street in another town for weeks and its got to go!

if you find the one I should get please send me a link...

oh yeah my total budget for the whole repair is 300.00

!!!!!

S.O.S.

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How long did the OEM clutch last??? DO you intend to drive your toy that far and that long.??

I would go with a stage1 upgrade. That would be the first step above OEM. Stage 3 or 4 clutches are a bit nastie and are suited more for high HP and high rpm takeoffs.

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How long did the OEM clutch last??? DO you intend to drive your toy that far and that long.??

I would go with a stage1 upgrade. That would be the first step above OEM. Stage 3 or 4 clutches are a bit nastie and are suited more for high HP and high rpm takeoffs.

i have no idea how long the OEM clutch lasted... and i assume we are talking about OEM for a 1984 Toyota Pickup w 22R

???

I have no idea if that is the same orig equipment as is on a motorhome...

i appreciate any and all responses...

thanks for all of your help!

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A disk is basically just that they are all pretty much the same until you get into the exotic stuff. You are limited to size by the diameter of the fly wheel and clutch cover. How ever the clutch cover or pressure plate is where the difference is and the difference is “clamping force”. The greater the clamping force the better the hold against the fly wheel. OEM stuff is a compromise for better (smother) engagement and lighter pedal feel. WME nailed it with a stage 1 assembly, a slipping clutch under load (moving 6,000# up a hill) may not be discernable and if it slips it wares. The better the clamping force the less likely it is to slip, go with the best you can afford sounds like the Toyota one is a remanufactured for the price you quoted great for a car or light truck not so good for a 6,000# MH..

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OEM stuff is a compromise for better (smother) engagement and lighter pedal feel. WME nailed it with a stage 1 assembly, a slipping clutch under load (moving 6,000# up a hill) may not be discernable and if it slips it wares. The better the clamping force the less likely it is to slip, go with the best you can afford sounds like the Toyota one is a remanufactured for the price you quoted great for a car or light truck not so good for a 6,000# MH..

so i am thinking about getting a stage 2 because it seems to have WAY beefier specs (HP and holding power)for just a few dollars more than the stage one...

would you guys still recommend the stage 1? if so why?

most of these other clutches say they only fit vehicles made after 8/84 how do i find out if my 84 was made earlier than that?

the stage 2 im looking at (eClutchMasters) allegedly fits an 81-88 toyota pickup... but it does not come with a flywheel so i will need to get mine resurfaced or cough up 80-100 bucks MORE for a new flywheel...

the guy helping me has flipped over 150 cars in his spare time as a steel worker and he is only 36... I know he knows how to do the repair but he has no knowledge of these "yodahomes" and i want to show up with the right stuff fit to tow all that extra weight up and down some serious hills...when we get the new clutch on i expect it to be a drastic improvement from the prior one...

thanks for your help guys

without the forum i would be lost on this

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A stage 2 might be a little "grabby" sort of engaged or disengaged and not much in between. I also think your fly wheel is "stepped" the clutch surface is slightly higher then where the clutch cover fits so make sure who ever turns the fly wheel knows what they are doing. I guess you'll have to go by the truck VIN# as to when it was built.

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Just a thought, but if you have a hydraulic clutch, have the flywheel finisher tell you how much metal he took off, so you can install the same thickness shim between the flywheel and crankshaft. This can make a difference.

John

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