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Timing chain


BigWaveDave

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There were problems with the tensioners breaking / wearing through on some of the 22RE engines, so it is recommended to replace the tensioner. If the tensioner had failed, the timing cover may be damaged (worn away). Rock Auto has all the replacements and it is not expensive, but would ideally be done with the engine removed. Not sure I would try it in situ. But generally, timing chains which are lubricated with engine oil will go the life of the engine. If you rebuild, you would have to be nuts not to replace all that stuff.

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They should last 100K or more they will get noisy and sound like a diesel, when you hear a rattling noise at idle then it's time don't put it off or it will cut a hole in the timing case and fill your oil pan with antifreeze. Do all of the parts chain, guide, oil pump gasket and seals and a new tensioner. The new style guide is a metal one with rubber type stuff on the face instead of plastic.

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I've done it with the engine in the truck, not to big a problem. A medimun amount of mech skill is needed.

Before you get too excited take off the cam cover and check the chain guides. If they are OK then check again next year.

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I just replaced the timing chain on my 22r at 114,000 mi last week. Word is you do it every 100,000 mi., It is easy to do in place, take out the radiator and that gives lots of room to work. The Hayes says take off the cylinder head but that isnt necessary either. On mine, the plastic guides were in good shape, but the chain had stretched about 1/2 a link and was making the motor hard to start when cold. I bought my chain in Yuma at a Napa, It came with all gaskets, new sprockets etc, but it did have the plastic guides. A couple of tips, if you take off the valve cover, you can see the chain and get a sense of how it all is. On mine the chain was a bit loose. Take out rad, we took off the water pump, not sure if we had to. remove all timing chain cover bolts, drop the oil pan but no need to take the bolts right off, just lower it 3/4". You will find that you have missed one bolt, its in that pool of oil just in front of the cam sprocket. Pop off the cover, now here is the good tip - spin the motor untill the two marked links are at the top and are lined up with the punch mark on the top sprocket. check that the marked link and punch marks on the lower sprocket are at the bottom. If they are not at the bottom on the lower sprocket turn the crankshaft one more turn, that should fix it. Once you are sure of this, take off the sprockets but under no conditions turn either the crankshaft or camshaft. If you do you will have to rotate them until they are back in time (dont ask how I know this) since the crankshaft turns twice for every turn of the camshaft you have a 50-50 chance of getting it wrong. As long as you dont turn them they will stay in time. Take the top sprocket in hand and put the chain on it with the two links either side of the punch mark. then put the lower sprocket in with the link and punch mark aligned, slide the lot in from the top and put the two sprockets on at the same time. The hayes book is a pretty good help it shows pretty well what you are looking at. The whole thing took us about 9 hours, and would have taken 7-8 if we had not turned the camshaft. The only noticable change is that it is much easier to start when cold now.

Tony

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