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'84 Dolphin Clutch Died... COMPLETELY. What is next?


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so i have an 84 dolphin with a hydraulic clutch...

anyone have any idea how i should start with replacing my clutch?

is there a particular clutch that i should upgrade to while im on it?

is it possible its just the slave cylinder?

how can i know?

what does the job entail? do i have to seperate the bell housing?

im scared guys i had spring plans for my rig and now im struggling for the money i need to fix it...

any help would be greatly appreciated...

I bet it would drive GREAT with a new clutch.

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A little more details on why you think the clutch is dead.

There is both a master and a slave cylinder on your clutch, either one could cause the clutch petal not to work.

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A little more details on why you think the clutch is dead.

There is both a master and a slave cylinder on your clutch, either one could cause the clutch petal not to work.

YES! thanks for the reply...

was revving extra hard and i smelled "burning wire smell" and then all of the sudden.... no matter what gear i put it in there was NO movement....

i pulled the lid off the slave cyl and there was still some fluid in there so i dont know if it could be the slave or not but it was about 2/3 full when i popped the cap off...

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:thumbdown: Stinky burning smoke is not a good sign.

There isn't much of a cheat job on this. You will have to ....

1. drop the drive line.

2. Remove the transmission.

3. Remove the bell housing...... Then you can replace the clutch AND the pressure plate AND the throw out bearing.

In addition you will need to resurface the flywheel or buy a new one. Rebuilding the master and slave is a good idea at this time too.

WME

P.S. The master is the one in the engine compartment, the slave is mounted on the bell housing.

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:thumbdown: Stinky burning smoke is not a good sign.

There isn't much of a cheat job on this. You will have to ....

1. drop the drive line.

2. Remove the transmission.

3. Remove the bell housing...... Then you can replace the clutch AND the pressure plate AND the throw out bearing.

In addition you will need to resurface the flywheel or buy a new one. Rebuilding the master and slave is a good idea at this time too.

WME

P.S. The master is the one in the engine compartment, the slave is mounted on the bell housing.

oh wow!

its totalled... TOTALLY...

BUT... sucker i am i will probably start saving and try my hardest to fix it...

although thats REALLY AWFUL news... I sure appreciate your honesty...

can you give me a rough estimate?

what if i do the work?

what will the parts cost?

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Toyota once upon a time sold remanufactured assemblies they were very good rebuilds and a lot less money. I'm not sure I would buy a rebuilt from a parts store.

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Toyota once upon a time sold remanufactured assemblies they were very good rebuilds and a lot less money. I'm not sure I would buy a rebuilt from a parts store.

well im usually the guy that if that part is that hard to get to... then im going to put the best new one that i can get within reason in...

i hope to get an upgrade...

wish i knew how to search for the part...

what to look for...

?

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The 22r 4sp package is very common and you should be able to get new HD parts for it from almost any parts store.

Yes go for pickup parts just ask for HD stuff.

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PartsAmerica (Kragen) shows 4 clutch kits for an 84 Toyota Pickup, ranging from $83 for their cheapo to $169 for the HD Performance kit.

Refinishing the flywheel, tranny oil, clutch cylinder rebuild kits & fluid - add another $50 - $100.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.as...244&PTSet=A

A clutch is really not that hard to replace, if you have the tools and patience. Loosening the flywheel bolt is always the hardest part for me.

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Johnny,

Almost one year ago the clutch in my Sunrader went out. If you replace it yourself, it is a fairly straightforward job:

Follow the instructions in a Toyota manual.

You will need a set of ramps to put the front wheels on. I had to jack each front wheel up and slide the ramp under each wheel because the vehicle wouldn't move.

You will probably need a floor jack or transmission jack. I was lucky and there was a Harbor Freight Tools store nearby and I bought a floor jack for $50.

Remove the shift rod from inside, then the drive shaft, the speedometer cable, the backup wiring.

Remove the hydraulic line going to the clutch slave cylinder. Remove the cylinder (2 bolts) replace with a new cylinder (about $10) later. My old one was leaking.

Remove the starter motor (disconnect the battery first). I replaced my starter with a new one while I had it out.

Disconnect the clamp that holds the exhaust pipe to the transmission.

Remove all of the bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine (some are rather difficult, especially the 2 on top of the housing that you have to get to under the hood above).

With the jack under the transmission, wiggle it out and back and down (this explanation is very simplified)

Unbolt the clutch from the flywheel slowly, releasing any tension that may be left.

Block your flywheel and remove the bolt and the flywheel (resurfacing cost me $35)

Replace all new clutch components.

Put it all back together.

It is rather an easy procedure, especially as you try new or seldom used words on things that don't go smoothly as the manual seems to think they should.

I bought a HD Racing clutch on line for around $189. It arrived in about 2 days. It included an alignment tool that is needed to align the clutch components. A new starter motor and slave cylinder I bought locally.

I could tell the difference in the pulling ability when I got it back on the road.

I hope this helps, just get started and it will soon all be over.

Allen

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I bought a HD Racing clutch on line for around $189. It arrived in about 2 days. It included an alignment tool that is needed to align the clutch components. A new starter motor and slave cylinder I bought locally.

Correction: I paid $289 for the clutch.

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Partstrain.com has clutch kits from $80 to $300, they range from stock replacement to slightly HD to HD to really HD.

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I have no idea if CenterForce has a clutch kit for the year but if they do they are heavy duty and are designed for easy leg action when working the pedal. They are not cheap though. Do not under estimate what WME said about having the flywheel resurfaced. If you don't the new install would result in a grabby jerky engagement and less life for the clutch. Two other things that has not been mentioned is the rear main seal and the pilot bearing. The seal is around the rear crank shaft. It may not be leaking, if it is leaking it has to be replaced. My opinion is replace it anyhow. #2 is the pilot bearing. It is a small bearing which is in the end of the crankshaft. The transmission shaft that sticks into the clutch plate also sticks into this bearing. It is a must be replaced item if you are replacing the clutch. Its not expensive though. As for the rear seal perhaps someone who has replaced that seal can speak up and say how its done. You should buy yourself a chiltons repair book for that year truck and put yourself to sleep with it for a few nights. There will be a good section on clutch replacement that you will find invaluable! There will also be info about the rear seal, master and slave cylinders etc. :w00t:

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Johnny,

Almost one year ago the clutch in my Sunrader went out. If you replace it yourself, it is a fairly straightforward job:

Follow the instructions in a Toyota manual.

You will need a set of ramps to put the front wheels on. I had to jack each front wheel up and slide the ramp under each wheel because the vehicle wouldn't move.

You will probably need a floor jack or transmission jack. I was lucky and there was a Harbor Freight Tools store nearby and I bought a floor jack for $50.

Remove the shift rod from inside, then the drive shaft, the speedometer cable, the backup wiring.

Remove the hydraulic line going to the clutch slave cylinder. Remove the cylinder (2 bolts) replace with a new cylinder (about $10) later. My old one was leaking.

Remove the starter motor (disconnect the battery first). I replaced my starter with a new one while I had it out.

Disconnect the clamp that holds the exhaust pipe to the transmission.

Remove all of the bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine (some are rather difficult, especially the 2 on top of the housing that you have to get to under the hood above).

With the jack under the transmission, wiggle it out and back and down (this explanation is very simplified)

Unbolt the clutch from the flywheel slowly, releasing any tension that may be left.

Block your flywheel and remove the bolt and the flywheel (resurfacing cost me $35)

Replace all new clutch components.

Put it all back together.

It is rather an easy procedure, especially as you try new or seldom used words on things that don't go smoothly as the manual seems to think they should.

I bought a HD Racing clutch on line for around $189. It arrived in about 2 days. It included an alignment tool that is needed to align the clutch components. A new starter motor and slave cylinder I bought locally.

I could tell the difference in the pulling ability when I got it back on the road.

I hope this helps, just get started and it will soon all be over.

Allen

its the bold sentence that scares me the most.

but that post is VERY helpful... thank you

i cant wait to get this repair going... its causing me too much undue stress sitting there broke down

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