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Hello!

I need you guys' help!

I just swapped otu the old 5 lug semi full floating axle for a 6 lug Toyota full floating axle out of whatI think is a mid 90's Toyota pickup..

The problem is... The driveshaft bolt pattern is different than the bolt pattern on the pumpkin shaft! Only two bolt holes line up any way you try and mate them!

So.. I went to a junkyard and found a Toyota RV chassis that had been stripped, and took the yoke off of the driveshaft of that, because the axle (Even though it had been gutted) on that particular RV was a true 1 ton just like mine..

Except THAT axle has the same driveshaft bolt pattern as my non full fooating axle!! I thought for sure it would work!!

So now I am at a loss here. Would it be totally a bad thing to drill new holes in the pumpkin driveshaft so that the driveshaft will bolt up to it??

Also, the shocks do not bolt up, is it possible to swap out the bottom plates with the 5 lug and the 6 lug? They look the same... Otherwise, it went well!

Thank you!!

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Find the right mate for your pumpkin, cut the other off the drive line and weld the right one on.

Yes... that is what I was trying to do. Except, not even what SHOULD have been a mate worked. So I take it it is NOT a good idea to drill holes in the pumpkin shaft connection to allow the driveshaft to work? Otherwise, I have no idea what to do, now.

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I think the problem with drilling new holes is that the drive line will no longer be centered on the pumpkin.

You can imagine the shaking and vibes and eventually self destruction of the drive line if it is not perfectly centered!! There has got to be some numbers on that pumpkin some where that will help you find the right part. Sounds like you're in a bit of a pickle.

I wish you good luck and let us know how it all worked out.

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I think the problem with drilling new holes is that the drive line will no longer be centered on the pumpkin.

You can imagine the shaking and vibes and eventually self destruction of the drive line if it is not perfectly centered!! There has got to be some numbers on that pumpkin some where that will help you find the right part. Sounds like you're in a bit of a pickle.

I wish you good luck and let us know how it all worked out.

If that is the only problem, then I am OK, because the yokes are self-centering! Ther is a sort of circular protrusion on one of the yokes that fits without any slop into the pumpkin yoke, so that with some effort it may be rotated and the holes perfectly aligned. I would imagine there would not be too much stress with adding 4 extra holes in the yoke of the pumpkin, but I could be wrong.

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See if you can switch flanges on the pumpkin

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I can’t find a picture of the floating rear but what you need to know if it does have a crush tube on the pinion it can be over tightened when you replace the hub. I think it is shimmed so that may not be an issue but I can’t remember for sure. The tube sets the bearing pre load and it is meant to collapse when tightened it is a one way deal so if it is tightened too much there will not be enough clearance for the pinion bearings and it will cook them. Usually you can get away with this because it takes a lot of torque to collapse them just don’t get carried away with a huge bar and a pipe. Don’t forget the new seal!

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Toyots says the procedure is to torque the flange nut to 145ft lb. Then check the preload need to turn the flange. It should be around 11ft lb, with out axles. If preload is low then retorque the flange 9ft lb at a time untill preload is correct. No backing up. if its to high then you need to pull the front bearing and change out the crush tube.

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