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1982 Mini Cruiser Diesel


Strassy

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Hi Toyotamotorhomes. I bought a Mini Cruiser Diesel on Friday, so I am a very new member. I gather that just because it is 17 feet and 3400 pounds doesn't mean I don't have to worry about the axle snapping. So, I guess my first question is what safe axle will most easily be adapted to replace it?-Thanks, Jeff

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Hello,

Is the 3400 points the total weight, or the weight of the rear axle?

Is the rear axle a duelly, or a single tire?

Also, where abouts are you located?

Dennis...

Hi, Dennis. 3400 is the weight listed on the title and registration. The unladen eight. It's the duelly that is recommended to replace. It wasn't part of the recall because it is a 17 footer. I'm in Unadilla, NY.

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My VW weights 3400 pounds! That must be the rolling chassis weight. Look in the axle facts section I think in your case it's best to ditch the duel wheel set and go with a single if it's a 5 bolt. Of course the best thing would be a full floating 6 bolt axle.

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My VW weights 3400 pounds! That must be the rolling chassis weight. Look in the axle facts section I think in your case it's best to ditch the duel wheel set and go with a single if it's a 5 bolt. Of course the best thing would be a full floating 6 bolt axle.

I agree about the 3400 lbs. The good thing is that I'm going to save some $ when I register it about an hour from now.

Let me see if I understand the axle options. Short of replacing the whole axle, a compromise option would be to switch to a single larger wheel. Doesn't that decrease the track and increase body roll?

If I go to a full floating 6 bolt, which I'd like to, is there a specific axle that is most easily modified to work?

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http://www.toyotamotorhome.org/forums/inde...ic=1132&hl= titled 18' Axles *DO* Fail..... has some good info that helped me in my swap. If you get a pre '89 axle, springs, wheels and driveshaft the springs fit into your original spring mounts. Getting the driveshaft will give you the correct flange where you mate up to the axle. You can drill out your existing flange, but I chose to do it with the correct flange. www.car-part.com is a good place to start looking for axles.

Do you have more details on the diesel in your RV? Was this a factory install? I wasn't aware of any factory diesels! Very curious to learn the fuel mileage and how the performance is.

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http://www.toyotamotorhome.org/forums/inde...ic=1132&hl= titled 18' Axles *DO* Fail..... has some good info that helped me in my swap. If you get a pre '89 axle, springs, wheels and driveshaft the springs fit into your original spring mounts. Getting the driveshaft will give you the correct flange where you mate up to the axle. You can drill out your existing flange, but I chose to do it with the correct flange. www.car-part.com is a good place to start looking for axles.

Do you have more details on the diesel in your RV? Was this a factory install? I wasn't aware of any factory diesels! Very curious to learn the fuel mileage and how the performance is.

Thanks for the info.Yes, it is factory. A friend was blogging and was told it was one of five made. I don't know if that means Mini Cruisers or all models. Someone in this Forum, maybe Diesel Mike, said he'd gotten 21 MPG.

I believe it to be a 2 liter pumping out 62 horsepower. I put it on the road today, but won't pick it up until the weekend. Motor Vehicle punched in the VIN and was told it was an '81 Toyota. The title said

82 MI/CR. NY had purged it from the system, since it hadn't been registered in 15 years.

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I agree about the 3400 lbs. The good thing is that I'm going to save some $ when I register it about an hour from now.

Let me see if I understand the axle options. Short of replacing the whole axle, a compromise option would be to switch to a single larger wheel. Doesn't that decrease the track and increase body roll?

If I go to a full floating 6 bolt, which I'd like to, is there a specific axle that is most easily modified to work?

there are a lot of guys on the site that know a lot more then I about the axle swap but the deal with the wheels is simple leverage the outer wheel stress the axle because it is too far away from the bearing. My guess it would probably ride better then the fake dullies but you are far safer with the big rear, peace of mind makes the trip more fun.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Strassy, Rich Carl here.

I restore and sell Sunraders. I just posted for sale a low mileage 6 lug, one ton, full floating rear axle with 4 wheels and lug nuts. It came off a crashed 1990 Toyota RV with 21k miles. I can deliver everything to you for a modest fee before Christmas 2008. Contact me directly at Richard.Carl@yahoo.com or call me at 517-410-3217 8am-9pm.

My ad is http://www.toyotamotorhome.org/classifieds...ng.php?view=483

Cheers, Rich

---

I agree about the 3400 lbs. The good thing is that I'm going to save some $ when I register it about an hour from now.

Let me see if I understand the axle options. Short of replacing the whole axle, a compromise option would be to switch to a single larger wheel. Doesn't that decrease the track and increase body roll?

If I go to a full floating 6 bolt, which I'd like to, is there a specific axle that is most easily modified to work?

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Strassy, Rich Carl here.

I restore and sell Sunraders. I just posted for sale a low mileage 6 lug, one ton, full floating rear axle with 4 wheels and lug nuts. It came off a crashed 1990 Toyota RV with 21k miles. I can deliver everything to you for a modest fee before Christmas 2008. Contact me directly at Richard.Carl@yahoo.com or call me at 517-410-3217 8am-9pm.

My ad is http://www.toyotamotorhome.org/classifieds...ng.php?view=483

Cheers, Rich

---

Thanks, Rich. I spent all day yesterday under a burned out 1984 Huntsman and am 4 leaf spring bolts from having the floating 1 ton out. I am a little concerned that the suspension pieces are quite different and significant fabrication and welding will be required. The Mini Cruiser has coil-over shocks and leaf springs. The Huntsman has shocks, airbags and leaf springs. I'd like to put the whole Huntsman system under the Cruiser.

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The new axle is at this moment being installed. Some of the fabrication necessary are the making of and welding on to the frame a bracket to attach the airbag suspension; the welding of two new lower shock supports to the differential; the rerouting of the exhaust around the rubber airbag; and the likely slight shortening of the drive shaft.Unknown are the effect the stiffer leaf springs will have on the attitude the vehicle takes and the way the likely different gearing in the rear end makes the RV drive. I suspect with the close ratio 5 speed and the anemic diesel motor I won't be able to tell much difference, but we'll see. I'm still looking for guidance in the possible installation of a turbo charger to make this thing go over 45 mph.

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Strassy I'M THINKING OF PUTTING A DIESEL IN A 4X4 FRAME AND PUTTING A TOYOTA M.H. ON THAT.IS YOUR DIESEL WORTH THE EFFORT OR ARE YOU BETTER OFF WITH A GAS ENGINE?I WOULD THINK A TURBO MAKES ANYTHING BETTER.

STEVE.

The new axle is installed. New lower shock mounts and upper airbag brackets were welded in, and the exhaust rerouted.Should have a nice stable, safe platform to zoom down the road at 45 MPH.

No doubt a gas motor would be better, and I have a 22RE motor with only 70K on it. The diesel is rare and different, and I still like the idea of a turbo. I need someone with experience to tell me exactly how to go about it.

If you are going diesel motorhome I hope you use one with more than the 62 HP I've got.

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Dump a load of diesel injector cleaner in the fuel tank, make triple sure your air cleaner is clean. Diesels LOVE lots of air, so any little thing can have a negative impact. Also a 2.25" or so exhaust is important. Will it go faster in 4th than 5th????

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Dump a load of diesel injector cleaner in the fuel tank, make triple sure your air cleaner is clean. Diesels LOVE lots of air, so any little thing can have a negative impact. Also a 2.25" or so exhaust is important. Will it go faster in 4th than 5th????

I did put some injector cleaner in it. The monster air cleaner looks OK. Tag says replace every 70K and the truck has 72 K on it. Worth a try. 5th gear is useless unless going downhill. Goes maybe 50MPH on the flats with no head wind.

Thanks. It's now become a challenge.

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I did put some injector cleaner in it. The monster air cleaner looks OK. Tag says replace every 70K and the truck has 72 K on it. Worth a try. 5th gear is useless unless going downhill. Goes maybe 50MPH on the flats with no head wind.

Thanks. It's now become a challenge.

OK if its faster in 4th than 5th, next step is to change the rear axle ratio. What ratio was in the "stock" rear vs the new 6 bolt??

There is not much you can do to make it more streamline, adding hp to a diesel is real money. The quickest thing you can do is make the best of the HP you have. You need to do the math and see what RPM the engine is turning at what speed. Re-gear the rear-end so that the engine is making max HP at your desired cruise speed (say 60 mph) in 5th gear. Maybe even use 4th as your cruise gear and use 5th for down hill and tail winds.

Just as an aside a lot of the bigger diesels use a shot of propane to increase HP going up hills. Know anybody with a propane tank <_<

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OK if its faster in 4th than 5th, next step is to change the rear axle ratio. What ratio was in the "stock" rear vs the new 6 bolt??

There is not much you can do to make it more streamline, adding hp to a diesel is real money. The quickest thing you can do is make the best of the HP you have. You need to do the math and see what RPM the engine is turning at what speed. Re-gear the rear-end so that the engine is making max HP at your desired cruise speed (say 60 mph) in 5th gear. Maybe even use 4th as your cruise gear and use 5th for down hill and tail winds.

Just as an aside a lot of the bigger diesels use a shot of propane to increase HP going up hills. Know anybody with a propane tank <_<

Thanks for the advice. I know the rear end gearing can make a difference. The half ton was stock for 1981. The one ton was likely what Toyota used in the recall for a large RV with an automatic. A drag racing friend advised pulling the rear end plates and countng cogs. I couldn't tell any difference in the two.

I've got a new air filter coming tomorrow. There is a pertinent web site called Toyota Truck Diesel FAQ and Guide, and another called Toyota Diesel Madness that discuss turbocharging.

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Turbo and an intercooler, diesels love turbos huge difference in torque and hp. Don’t think you are going to win any races but you’ll love the power gain.

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The normal ratio for the 6 bolt is 4:10. Take the old rear and put a piece of tape on the pinion flange and a piece on a brake drum. Turn the brake drum 1 turn and count how many times the pinion goes around.

The common ratios for a Toy are 3:90, 4:10, 4:56 and 4:88. Should be easy to figure out.

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