Jump to content

Removing cone washers?


mission mike

Recommended Posts

Cone washers on rear axle--- on my post of last week Re-- removing axle shaft, I got some good tips for dealing with these, but now on the drivers side I just can't get the cone washers to come loose, I've used a chisel, drift pin, deep socket, big hammer and then some, soaked them in penetrating oil for two days, I even tried some gentle heat with a propane torch, still nothing moves??? Has anyone else had this problem? Would it be possible to drill them out? I can get them at our Toyota Dealer for $5 a pop. I would be grateful for any advise Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Mike,

Maybe there is too much pressure on the last set of cone washers, you may want to try putting

the nuts back on the other studs and tighten them down (may have to put a flat washer under the nut).

This may reduce the pressure on the last set of cone washers, or at least even the pressure out.

Then try using the deep socket method.

Dennis...

mission mike said:
Cone washers on rear axle--- on my post of last week Re-- removing axle shaft, I got some good tips for dealing with these, but now on the drivers side I just cant get the cone washers to come loose, I've used a chisel, drift pin, deep socket, big hammer and then some, soaked them in penetrating oil for two days, I even tried some gentle heat with a propane torch, still nothing moves??? has anyone else had this problem? would it be possible to drill them out? I can get them at our Toyota Dealer for $5 a pop. I would be grateful for any advise Mike
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 years later...

I realize this is a very old thread, but I'd like to document an approach to the cone washers here for anyone who is searching for the solution to "How do I remove the cone washers?"

I re-did my rear axle this weekend.  It was at 80k miles and 30 years and it may be the first time this thing was apart.  Replaced brakes and bearings, all is good.

BUT I had a devil of a time with the cone washers.  I tried all the tricks described in this forum but NOT ONE would come loose.  BFH and all, no go.  Just a dented edge to the axle end (which I cleaned up proper before putting back on).

This is what worked:  I put two nuts on the stud, tightened them together and then backed out the stud itself a turn or so.  ALL of the cone washers came loose this way very easily.  It did take a little while to go though every stud like this because then you have to tighten them back in too.  Still, this was a lot less time than I wasted trying everything else....  Just thought I'd let y'all know just in case someone is able to put this trick to use one day.

NOTE (edit):  beware of the possibility of breaking a stud!  Lee & Joan (see post below) tried this approach and broke a stud off!

Edited by AtlantaCamper
new information
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wacked the hub with a hammer - they came flying off - be sure to put a rag over it, or sit close and use your chest to "catch" them.

 

I have done 2 rear brake jobs (different campers) the - "wack" worked both times.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just screw the nuts on a couple of turns, they will trap the loose cones.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We tried Atlanta Campers method of double nutting the stud but broke the very first stud off trying to unthread it, so resorted to the very BFH method along with some lube, tedious but finally got them off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Lee & Joan said:

We tried Atlanta Campers method of double nutting the stud but broke the very first stud off trying to unthread it

Bummer, sorry to hear that.  I made an edit to my original post above to warn people about this possibility.  Are your studs rusted in and that is what caused them to not turn?  I have almost no rust on this camper so perhaps that's why mine came out so easily?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Lee & Joan said:

We tried Atlanta Campers method of double nutting the stud but broke the very first stud off trying to unthread it, so resorted to the very BFH method along with some lube, tedious but finally got them off.

I notice you've got a 1986 'home. Did you break studs on the drivers side, rear? Were the studs 'left hand tread'?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/5/2017 at 7:57 AM, Derek up North said:

I notice you've got a 1986 'home. Did you break studs on the drivers side, rear? Were the studs 'left hand tread'?

As a matter of fact it was on the driver side rear, I thought just the wheel studs were reverse thread, but not the axle cap studs? Well a 31 year old truck does have a lot of frozen fasteners. No harm done AtlantaCamper, it sounded like a good option to me so we tried it, snapped the first one then switched to the BFH method. It sounded like a good method to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We should probably mark each stud with an L. I had forgotten about this when I had tires swapped out on the Toyota and the poor kid was just  air hammering away until an older employee said reverse the air hammer, and BINGO off came the nuts. I had an old 1941 Dodge school bus with a 218 CI flathead six and a 5 speed "crashbox" (no synchros). It has reverse wheel studs also. It was my first "Motor Home" and taught me the "power to weight" ratio, the Dodge was 7 tons with a 96 horse engine that sounded like it was going to blow above about 2500 RPM. These Toyotas are way more supersonic than that old bus..........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...