hamkid Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 (edited) I trust my skill levels if I have the right tools and information. I have never rebuilt calipers or turned rotors. I have the fsm and have seen how to change the bearings. Keeping as many stock parts as possible would be cool, but at what cost? I do like to learn new skills, but I do want the job done correctly and in a somewhat timely manner. I need a bucket of brake cleaner? haha! where do I get that from? Edited November 25, 2020 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 Turning the rotors is a machine shop deal, many auto parts stores have the lathe. Try the same place for Safety Solvent. A gallon of cleaner, a bucket, a wire brush AND gloves will get it done. Wal mart has spray cans of carb cleaner and brake cleaner as a last resort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted November 26, 2020 Author Share Posted November 26, 2020 The gallon of brake parts cleaner is sorta pricey, do I have to buy the safety solvent? What exactly does safety solvent do? Also, these rotors are on rock auto for $18.30. Should I even bother with turning the rotors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 I can't imagine why you would need a gallon. Also you have to be really careful with brake cleaner. Can't touch anything rubber , ball joints and all the bushings, and wear gloves and face protection if your laying on the ground trying to clean something. Extremely toxic. I bought one can when I did my Ford brakes and there is still a bunch left in the can Yes those rotors look good and probably cheaper than the cost of having your old ones turned Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 (edited) The "gallon" is only a small joke. But the front is badly cruded up and then there is the rear axle. Hot soapy water, wire brush, and a spray can of carb cleaner might be enough. Walmart Super Tech carb cleaner works well and is cheap. Brake cleaner comes 2 ways chlorinated and non-chlorinated. Chlorinated works best but has bad fumes, and will strip all the oil out of your skin. Its called "safety solvent" for a reason, in the old days you used gasoline and lots of booms resulted. It runs about $23 a gallon. The rotors look good. When the time comes use DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, do not use DOT 5 Note: Brake cleaner, carb cleaner and brake fluid don't mix well with paint and plastic Edited November 26, 2020 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 Nobody turns rotors anymore. It’s cheaper to buy aftermarket imports. If you want to save money, here’s a hack that works for me. Rock Auto has an excellent data base for parts. Their prices are reasonable, but shipping can kill you. So I find the part stock number on “rock” then order through Amazon which usually includes free shipping. If you have “prime” it takes 2 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted November 27, 2020 Author Share Posted November 27, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted November 27, 2020 Author Share Posted November 27, 2020 (edited) got this for the ball joints Edited November 28, 2020 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 Looks good. FWIW you have KYB shocks, a working one should take 40 lbs + of pressure to collapse it. If you try and remove the shock beware all of the force from the torsion spring is on the lower control arm. Block it up with a jack or something before removing the shock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 Should I service the torsion bar spring? It’s the step after removing the ball joints in the fsm. I’m pretty much following the manual and replacing everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 Are you going to replace the lower control arm bushings. If you are then you will need to relax the torsion bar so you can unbolt its bracket from the LCA. The bar has no moving parts so it won't need "servicing". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 Just seconding WME... if you’re replacing the lower control arm bushings, or the arm itself, you will need to loosen the big bolt at the rear end of each torsion bar to relieve tension: great idea to measure the length of the bolt (the part that extends past the upper nut) FIRST, so you can set the original tension when putting all back together, end up with factory ride height. If you pull the TAs completely off, make sure to add alignment marks on each bar, front/back... all in the manual, I’m sure. Good work, keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 which ball joints should I buy from rock auto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 FWIW, My hot rods get ProForged, second choice is Moog, for a Toyota 3rd is Beck/Arnley, all the others are last choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Moog isn't what it used to be. My replacement ball joints are Moog and they are chintzy. Not greaseable and no where to even fit a zerk fitting. I'm sorry I put them on Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 I went with the Mevotech BJs at RockAuto when I did all this a year or two ago; satisfied with the quality so far. My parts list on pg 2 or 3 of this thread: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 Thanks! I removed the upper ball joint and the upper arm bushing bolts. Before I go any further I need to ask about Camber adjusting shims. Not sure where they are or what they do. The manual says to record the thickness and position of them. Please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 So you’re planning on removing the upper CAs? The shims are small (~1” square) thin and roughly u-shaped with a tab; they will usually be straddling the two bolts that hold the upper CA in place, on the back side of the frame bracket. When you start removing the two bolts, the shims should be able to be pulled free. Record how many were in place on each bolt; these things keep the front wheels in proper alignment by slightly adjust the position of the upper CA. (Alignment recommended after this is all completed anyway, however.) For what it’s worth, I didn’t try to replace the bushings in the upper arms: most folks agreed it was a PITA, better to just replace the whole unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 Here’s a look. Wha da think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 I think... 1) the bushings in that CA look like they’ve been replaced recently, so maybe just leave it alone... 2) The two bolts pointing right at the camera/phone in the second-to-last photo are the ones that release the arm, the ones with the shims on the backside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 The nuts for the torsion bar spring are rusted pretty good. If I need to can I jack up the lower arm and disassemble everything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 3 hours ago, hamkid said: The nuts for the torsion bar spring are rusted pretty good. If I need to can I jack up the lower arm and disassemble everything? Jam nut stuck to the main nut? My rig was rusted worse than I’m seeing in your pics, and I eventually got em free. I think you need to get some heat and PB blaster on the tensioning bolt/nuts, then go after them with two good wrenches, opposing directions. It’s not easy to work up in there, no doubt. Or, if you can get a good box wrench on the top jam nut, wedged against frame or something solid, then maybe you can spin the big adjusting bolt from below w/impact in reverse (or cheater bar + socket). I never tried what you’re suggesting, jacking the arm etc; could be dangerous, maybe somebody else will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 Yup it’s like the lock and adjust nuts mutated into one ha. I put heat on it today, just gotta be more patient I guess. I just got the fittings for my air gun so I guess I will try with that. I’m not gonna risk jacking up the arm. Just gonna follow the manual. Thanks for all the replies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Do the lower bushings look as good as the uppers? Big torque requires 6 point socket and tools. A 12 point will round off the nut and bolts under high torque Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 The upper bushings only look good from the outside. When you look at them inside the mounting bracket they are in need of being replaced. Pretty sure this thing has never had any service and since I’m taking it all apart I’m gonna change everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 (edited) The manual says to take off the lock nut and then measure height of bolt. Can I just measure with the lock nut on? Edited December 2, 2020 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 28 minutes ago, hamkid said: The manual says to take off the lock nut and then measure height of bolt. Can I just measure with the lock nut on? Yep. Just keep in mind, later on, when you're setting the correct tension with the adjusting nut, to add on the extra height of the lock nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 (edited) Got it loose enough to release tension. The two nuts are still stuck together. Does the bolt on the anchor arm come out? I wanted to replace all the hardware. I still need to remove torque arm and the spring. Edited December 4, 2020 by hamkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 Finally off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Time to scrubie scrubie and then use Rustoleum Hammered paint on the suspension parts you can, the caliper needs Hi temp caliper paint (red looks good) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 5, 2020 Author Share Posted December 5, 2020 I’m planning on rebuilding the steering box, steering parts, and rear end suspension. Should I start new threads for each one or leave it all here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 What brand is recommended for the wheel bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamkid Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 gonna go with these shocks. Whadya think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 (edited) Wheel bearings...SKF or Timken. What make bearing does your MH have now? They seem to have done good. KYBs are the bang for the buck shocks. Thats the brand you have now. Edited December 6, 2020 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.