RobotRichard.79DoLL Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 So I had to empty my storage locker a few days ago and realized real quick that my 79’ Toyota Dolphin Manual speed 20R (four headlight 78’ parts) has a very low capacity for weight despite my GVWR being higher than the on-site average. So I am new to this forum and to the toy home family. I’ve done some good work already, got it through DMV with flying colors. Did standard fluid/ filter replacing, spark plugs (no wires), thermostat, battery terminal wire clamps, batteries and wiper blades right from the get go. My baby honestly hasn’t needed much more and I’ve put on 6,000 miles over the summer working on her, driving to and from Portland, to and from country camp spots when I’m tired of my city spots. She has done well, generally not to much start and stop, but if I do I always let her warm back up in between errands if she ever closes the temperature gauge back up. In that time a few things popped up, my rear seal from the tranny output side needed replacing, that didn’t quite solve my problem so next I need to add a speedy sleeve and hope that fixes my minor leak, which I’ve just been adding a 1/4 quart of oil back into the tranny. I’m realizing now I need to go check my rear gears for oil now too... Anyways I don’t think that is my main issue right now. I also messed the tourque bolts a bit on head gasket in the dark one night so I went and replaced that gasket which didn’t have the 1/4 moons anyways so now it does. My carb has also needed some tuning and I don’t think the person who touched it last did a necessarily great job and it was lower on gas than I realized when he did the servicing, maybe almost empty (gas gauge works for the first gallon or two and then drops to zero till I refill again, I’m 26 during a pandemic so that doesn’t happen every trip to the gas station all the time...). Really though she has been a dream ever since, but I’m nervous I may have done some long term damage and something should be replaced, but I’m not sure entirely what yet because nothing has actually broken just worn, can it be the case that if it’s babied from here on out I may be okay? Synopsis will lead you all to tell me yes or no I’m sure. so I may have been a touch over capacity for awhile longer than I realized 2-3 weeks of slightly to much weight. Thinking back when my fat friend got in the car one time I accidentally drove in 3rd gear for ten miles on the highway without to much issue at pronanly 45 mph, which normally my dolphin is very picky with when to use which gears, big difference in uphill and flat gear choices of speed. So there was this light dry sort of sounding whisper from my tranny for awhile. I kind of shrugged this off because it took me awhile to figure out the main deal issue and the tranny was way to low of fluid once, pretty low once more and just 1/4 qt drains every two weeks and then it’s back up to perfect. Engine has been okay mainly, the radiator fan warbles just a bit in rotation and probably needs a new fan clutch eventually here, I don’t think it’s damaged enough to not keep up with the current cooling though, just has a bit of noise from spinning off axis from time to time... Now the tranny has gotten pretty warm a few times I think, possibly that or the engine or both it’s hard to tell when the exhaust manifold is busy frying an egg while I’m trying to tell. The engine is building up a lot of residue, I don’t think from any leaks, but I’m not sure. My dad is a heavy weight machinery mechanic and I have another good friend is a mechanic so I’m always being schooled on stuff, taken out a few engines, taken apart the engine heads, can handle general maintence type stuff, but yeah, generally don’t like opening up any main components without someone around to help a bit or ask questions, getting better though, definitely after this. So when I warm the rig up it gets a little higher in the needle position than normal. I opted for the lower engine temp thermometer at 180 not 195 if I’m remnering the numbers right. I’m not sure why this is, when I start driving it goes down most the time unless I’m pushing the RPMs a little high I think, I haven’t installed my after market tach yet which I should, but not sure where all the parts are yet... It also was having this horrible rattle for awhile right where the stereo is, I had to shove some paper in the 8 track deck all the way pushing on the two sides of the opening, this issue has gotten better, but still concerning in general. The hood is pretty hot, not burning, but definitely slightly more than just warm, sometimes when I’m just in the city I pop the hood to the latch catch position for added air flow (i know I know). Also was being a little bad about blocking my defrosting vents inside, but never used them much and have been keeping my dash clean and building a little organizer shelf/ puppy play station while moving the passenger seat to the back in place of one of the water tanks next to the soon be wood stove area. So I’m bassicly looking for suggestions of things and ways to check what parts may have taken a bit of a hit. I use 10w-30 high mileage and add extra DZZP 500 miles into the 2,500-3,000 oil change cycle. My oil stays perfectly clean for the longest time too, like honestly concerningky slow as if it’s not even being used or cycled through which would explain some of the engine heat and sounds of possible wear coming from that or the tranny maybe both. Please any help would be loved and questions will be answered, insults will be ignored, young, savvy and proud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 4, 2020 Share Posted October 4, 2020 Lot of stuff going on here. Exactly what do you think your GVWR is. All RV's were built on cab and chassis and gross weight just depends on the year. Do you know what model transmission you have. Several different model numbers were used the year yours was made. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted October 4, 2020 Share Posted October 4, 2020 Check the ID plate in the engine compartment. Mine is located on the driver side inner fender. This tag will tell you what you have for engine, transmission and rear axle. Attached is a sample of what to look for. In my case I have the L43 transmission with the GO82 rear axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 4, 2020 Share Posted October 4, 2020 Word of caution if your trans is an automatic the leak needs to be fixed. It probably is a worn tail stock bushing if that is ignored it will damage the trans because it supports the output shaft and the governor assembly and will ware groves in the trans case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotRichard.79DoLL Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 On 10/4/2020 at 6:44 AM, Maineah said: Word of caution if your trans is an automatic the leak needs to be fixed. It probably is a worn tail stock bushing if that is ignored it will damage the trans because it supports the output shaft and the governor assembly and will ware groves in the trans case. does anyone actually read the posters original text, in full? Again I am going to try a speedy sleeve as I think it has to do with a worn yoke shaft, also as stated within the first few sentences it is a manual transmission... On 10/4/2020 at 6:44 AM, Maineah said: Word of caution if your trans is an automatic the leak needs to be fixed. It probably is a worn tail stock bushing if that is ignored it will damage the trans because it supports the output shaft and the governor assembly and will ware groves in the trans ca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotRichard.79DoLL Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 On 10/4/2020 at 6:07 AM, fred heath said: Check the ID plate in the engine compartment. Mine is located on the driver side inner fender. This tag will tell you what you have for engine, transmission and rear axle. Attached is a sample of what to look for. In my case I have the L43 transmission with the GO82 rear axle. right on I will check later tonight, what am I looking for, or is it easier to say what I’m not looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Your ID plate 5th line down tells you your transmission type and your rear axle type. i.e. Trans/Axle. The transmission number may be hard to read as it’s stamped onto the plate. Axle should be the GO82. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Dunham Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Cool I have just picked up a 79 Dolphin! Bit of rot but no biggie. Needs some front end work soon. But im happy! Live in Pismo Beach Cal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REALLYRURAL Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 I have seen Toy Homes towing cars. My 1988 was alleged to have towed a HUGO (do you know what a Hugo station wagon is called? HU ALL GO). I have seen a Toy Home towing a Toy Home on a front wheel flat tow setup. In 2013 before heading out on what turned into a 7thousand mile trip I ran the 1988 over the scales. It weighed 8 thousand pounds. Oops with the basics in it it had weighed out at 58 thousand pounds. and So at the moment I have the 1988 sold to a buyer 600 miles away. I am thinking about pulling the axles and towing the 1988 with my 1991 that I have just done a sketchy rebuild on the transmission. It is a way home amid this stuff that is going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_M Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 (edited) 34 minutes ago, REALLYRURAL said: and So at the moment I have the 1988 sold to a buyer 600 miles away. I am thinking about pulling the axles and towing the 1988 with my 1991 that I have just done a sketchy rebuild on the transmission. It is a way home amid this stuff that is going on. I wouldn't take that chance. I've seen them towed safely with a 2wheel tow dolly and a hefty pickup or rental moving van. Also I don't believe you'd need to pull the axles, that's a lot of after work. Pull the driveshaft. In light of all of that how come you didn't put the pickup of the 88 onto the buyer? Edited October 22, 2020 by Gary_M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotRichard.79DoLL Posted October 24, 2020 Author Share Posted October 24, 2020 On 10/4/2020 at 6:07 AM, fred heath said: Check the ID plate in the engine compartment. Mine is located on the driver side inner fender. This tag will tell you what you have for engine, transmission and rear axle. Attached is a sample of what to look for. In my case I have the L43 transmission with the GO82 rear axle. Mine says good to GO82... it’s the five lug, but I thought I saw somewhere a poster mentioned that it depends and only certain years were recalled. I did just find a rear axle at a sister location to a local yard that will send it up to the Portland location for free and it’s $195, but money is tight and it’s getting a little nippy for mechanical repair projects that aren’t needed... here is a photo of my rear wheel set up, with the cover on (yes I painted it oceanic colored and am going to be that guy with RGB under glow light kit so I can be cruising on beach street 24/7) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 No. The 5 lug axles are unsafe to use. If you have access to a 6 lug ff you should buy it. But keep in mind you need a 6 lug from a 2WD Truck. Toyota made a 6 lug axle for the 4x4 but that won’t work in this case. Double check the fit before buying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Toyota spent massive amounts of money supplying new rear axles for thousands of Toyota based motorhomes. Do you really think they would have done that if they didn't need to? They also completely stopped making the popular cab and chassis trucks. Uhaul, gardeners, and many others who used them also no longer had access to the Toyota option. The only other option is to convert to a single wheel in the back. Because we're top heavy this requires beefing up the suspension which would probably cost you as much as the axle upgrade and it still wouldn't drive as solidly on the road. Thats dirt cheap for a full float dually axle. Just buy it so you can love your cute little RV longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REALLYRURAL Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 On 10/22/2020 at 6:58 PM, Gary_M said: I wouldn't take that chance. I've seen them towed safely with a 2wheel tow dolly and a hefty pickup or rental moving van. Also I don't believe you'd need to pull the axles, that's a lot of after work. Pull the driveshaft. In light of all of that how come you didn't put the pickup of the 88 onto the buyer? If I had done a full rebuild of the trans of the 91 I would not hesitate to tow the 88 to the new owners driveway. Since the full floater axle is lubed by packed bearings not the differential lube there is no worries about loosing lube to the differential. Dragging around for say 600 miles without driving the rig I would prefer nothing is turning that does not have to. I takes me about 5 minutes to yank both axles and slap some duct tape over the hole. It takes me longer to just setup to get at the driveshaft. Then it takes time and patience to get those four 14mm bolts and several different 14mm wrenches I have modified just for this purpose all while laying on your back and working your way back and forth under the rig. Pulling the axles just involves pulling the nuts and if you have prepared it. Then just smack it with a 3 pound hammer and just pull it out. I suggest prepping the axles to come out easy as if you need a tow you can just yank them and be underway in minutes. If a tow driver is trying to drop the driveshaft that driver is not going to have the proper tools and is quickly going to have a contrary attitude... The Buyer has been a stand up person without any dicker so I offered to deliver for a price... Buyer excepted my offer and we have a deal. Since the buyer did not haggle. I have spent the last week doing nothing else but going over every aspect of the rig and fixing everything that has presented itself. I also have not removed the expensive stuff that I did not include in the add. Honda Generator, 300 dollar fan unit, or new tires. Something that is quite easy for me through experience, investment in tools/equipment, and research may be a different story for the Buyer so I am going over every detail on the rig so it is usable for the new owner. I hope to park it in the Buyers driveway and walk away knowing the rig is in as good a condition as possible. Any defect is future maintenance. After delivery it is planes,trains, and automobiles to get back home to Maine. One last road trip in the 88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotRichard.79DoLL Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 On 10/24/2020 at 2:17 PM, fred heath said: No. The 5 lug axles are unsafe to use. If you have access to a 6 lug ff you should buy it. But keep in mind you need a 6 lug from a 2WD Truck. Toyota made a 6 lug axle for the 4x4 but that won’t work in this case. Double check the fit before buying. I’m confused why you told me I needed a GO82 axle, but now your saying I need to change it. I found a very reasonably priced one for $150 in my area, my main issues is space to do the work currently and finances stretched in many areas that even $150 is a bit of a hassle to free up. I have no issues doing this, but it may have to wait till summer, it seems like if the rig has gone 60,000 prior to me and another 8,000 with me if I’m careful I should be okay. My dad has been a heavy construction mechanic and when I tried t9 mention this to him he really didn’t seem to be concerned him self and it’s his space I need to convince to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotRichard.79DoLL Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 On 10/24/2020 at 2:56 PM, linda s said: Toyota spent massive amounts of money supplying new rear axles for thousands of Toyota based motorhomes. Do you really think they would have done that if they didn't need to? They also completely stopped making the popular cab and chassis trucks. Uhaul, gardeners, and many others who used them also no longer had access to the Toyota option. The only other option is to convert to a single wheel in the back. Because we're top heavy this requires beefing up the suspension which would probably cost you as much as the axle upgrade and it still wouldn't drive as solidly on the road. Thats dirt cheap for a full float dually axle. Just buy it so you can love your cute little RV longer Mine has both stacked bars for suspension, but also has orginal air suspension I believe to be orginal to the the rig from what I’ve read before. It seems like the air suspension isn’t all that common from year to year? why do you say we’re top heavy, just because of the added roof, I’ve done quite a bit of reconfiguring inside and built a loft/ storage area two feet from the ceiling and some totes take up all that space. I’m now concerned that I should have designed all weight to be lower to the ground. Currently it is lop sides a bit, but I intend to put my wood stove and build a larger kitchen space for prepping along with a gravity water system likely in the same area depending on difficulty of getting it to the black water. The benefit to this, plus stripping the bathroom and rear kitchen down is that although some of this weight is higher it does all sit right above the rear axles now as well as the rear air suspension, so I felt the trade off was sort of worth it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotRichard.79DoLL Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 (edited) On 10/3/2020 at 8:56 PM, linda s said: Lot of stuff going on here. Exactly what do you think your GVWR is. All RV's were built on cab and chassis and gross weight just depends on the year. Do you know what model transmission you have. Several different model numbers were used the year yours was made. Linda S I have the L43, but I also think the gear ratios were likely changed because when I have almost no weight in my rig I can tell it’s spinning as if it’s in to low of a gear (like riding a bike without shifting back up after climbing and your legs are going so fast, but your speed doesn’t match). I couldn’t imagine the hilux with these sized gear cogs because when I get right around the 5,000lbs sweet spot it drives faster than totally empty. Now I’m at 5,800 and it’s gotten a little slower, but I still have some reducing to do. My gvwr is a little odd.. my gvwr kind of confuses me along with psi suggestions. Does anyone else s have similar information or can clarify why it says dual as a psi or what the PR after the 7.50 x 14 means? Edited December 8, 2020 by RobotRichard.79DoLL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 (edited) The tire size is obsolete, its 7.50x14 6 ply rated. It sorta crossed to a P195R/80x14, which is a passanger tire. The correct answer is a tire that drives tire counter people crazy because they insist that the size designation is wrong, but it ain't. What you want is a LT185R/14C, load range 100/102 D. LT means light truck, 185 is the width, C means commercial. Old time load rating was 8 Ply rating, note 8 ply rating doesn't mean 8 plys, it was just as strong as the old cotton 8 plys. It was up dated to D range, current rating is 100/102, some tires will have all 3 marks There is no aspect ratio. If they say it doesn't exist, have them look up a tire for a 1985 VW Vanagon You need to start with weighing your Toy, front and rear axle weights. then go to this chart as a place to have a starting point for tire pressure. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/12389-tire-pressure/&tab=comments#comment-115078 Edited December 8, 2020 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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