Ctgriffi Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 Camping a few nights in a state park and noticed the WH was generating VERY hot water last night; shut it down and hit the sack. This morning, turned its thermo way down and used it for some quick showers and all seemed fine; checked it again later and saw serious soot marks, etc! Appears that a small index card with instructions I had put in there a few years back was incinerating. Shut it all down immediately (for good). Never experienced this kind of trouble with the unit; normally it’s just slow to start. What’s likely the cause? (Door WAS replaced recently but nothing else...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 Regulator or temp control. How are the other gas appliances stove etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 Stove was fine. Boiled water per usual; flame was normal size/blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 Well that kind of points to the temp control thinks the tank is cold when it's not full speed ahead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 Makes sense to me, thanks. I’ll start researching parts or replacement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 Looks like the temp control is the whole unit with the dial. Over a hundred bucks. Here are some really good deals on new If you'd like an auto ignition one this is the best price I've ever seen. Way less than the cost of a pilot model https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Suburban-SW6D-Porcelain-Lined-Steel-Tank-Water-Heater-6-gal_p_28453.html Only 12 bucks shipping Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Thanks for the link, Linda. That is a very good deal on a new WH, although I don't think it matches my cutout dimensions. Did a little more troubleshooting/testing at home this morning with my existing unit. Lots of gunk/crud around the pilot light and burner tube, which I completely disassembled and cleaned up thoroughly. Also discovered that pushing the temp lever to the left on the control valve calls for HOTTER water, when I assumed it would be the other way around (label was long gone, invisible). Verified this info in the manual; now I know and marked it clearly with sharpie. With the temp setting in the middle, I lit the pilot and then started the burner. Kept an eye on it for about 10 min, until the main burner shut itself off... partially. There was no longer a roar of blue flame, but there was a small orange flame that continued to burn, all the way down the length of the burner tube (the small L-shaped pipe). Watched it for a few more minutes, then shut it all back down. So, it's obvious that the pilot light should always stay on, but why would there be combustion still happening inside the burner tube? Control valve not shutting the flow off completely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 My mistake your heater is an Atwood not Suburban. The heater control valve for the Atwoods is cheaper. Might be a good option https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Water-Heater-Gas-Control-Valve-Thermostat.html Does seem like your control valve isn't shutting off properly. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Thanks, came across that myself. Good deals at that place; just put one on order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 Pretty straightforward repair. Getting old valve out is the hard part; heat/torch helps as usual. Have to fiddle with the valve rotation a bit to get good alignment with gas line and burner tube. Spray connections w/soapy water for leak test: don’t want any bubbling... Tested new valve twice and got a nice, clear “click” when it reached set point, and it’s definitely shutting off the burner completely, unlike before. Peace of mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 Nice fix. Glad it all worked out. Heat torch on a propane valve, yikes. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 Yikes is right. But I shut down the tank tight, ran the kitchen range until it went out, disconnected the flare fitting from valve inlet and let it all sit a long time before attempting removal. No problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted September 23, 2020 Author Share Posted September 23, 2020 Just a quick follow-up on the topic of propane for the non-experts (like me) out there: While finishing my water heater repair, I discovered that my 91 Warrior has a handy little gauge plumbed into the main propane line, right inside the exterior fridge-access panel (is that standard practice, dunno?). Anyway, if you open up your propane tank valve for a few seconds and allow it to pressurize the system, then close the valve down tightly, the gauge should remain very steady for several minutes... if it doesn't and visibly falls off in a few minutes times, you know you've got a leak somewhere in the system. Good practice to do this test once a year—or much sooner, if you're getting whiffs of propane when you shouldn't! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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