Damien Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 I plan on gutting and redoing everything so I can have the assurance that I won't have problems with old outdated systems when I'm on the road. I'm a residential contractor and I use PEX in homes, does anyone have experience with PEX in motorhomes? Seems like it would work great, but maybe there's a better product I'm unfamiliar with. Ive been looking into instant tankless water heaters also. I figured lightweight and easy to install. any recommendations? This is my first motorhome and I was wondering what you have to do to winterize them? is there some sort of antifreeze to add the the system before winter storage? also how do you flush and clean the tanks? I know that's a lot of questions. Thanks in advance for your time and responses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 PEX is what everyone suggests. If you can design the plumbing to completely drain you could do without using RV (non-toxic) antifreeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 okay, cool! I can probably do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 PEX, I don't think you can even buy that gray stuff any more. Your old drain valves should be usable with the PEX if nothing else use the same placement. Personally I use air to blow out the lines and suck up about a half pint into the pump can't take the taste of the pink stuff. To do the tanks I usually fill 1/4t to 1/2 way add bleach go for a short ride to shake everything up and drain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_M Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Damien, There are at least 2 drain points to take into account, the faucets/cold water tank and the hot water tank. I doubt you'd be able to create a single drain point but I've seen it all to be a believer. I'm sure we all have different setups but here is mine you can take into account for reference. My hot water tank was replaced due to water being left in over the winter, expansion swelled the old tank to where the previous owner had to cut it out from the outside to free it. LOL...Glad I got in there, we have some cob webs to clean out. 😅 You'll see I have hot and cold valves that allow me to isolate the hot water tank from the cold system. This year I haven't used the hot water so I kept it isolated. So basically I have 2 drain points, the cold water tank and the hot water tank. The hot water tank has a drain cock at the top, but I drain all the water by pulling the anode rod plug at the bottom. Here you see a bar code label white plug in it's place. I keep the anode out until I have the use for hot water. Attached is a check list put together to help winterize and refill the tanks in the spring. I guess if you plan on a complete gutting of the inside then go for it. Really though you'll have a big job ahead and I wish that on no-one, if your water holds IMHO there is no reason to re-do. Good luck to you! Gary winter.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 This forum has been so helpful in so many ways! From all the older discussions I've been able to learn from to my many questions you've all answered! Thanks to everyone for their input! And thanks Gary for those pictures, it helps to see it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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