Jump to content

90 Toyota Dolphin Original Dometic RM2401 Fridge Gas/Electric


Recommended Posts

I have tried many times to get the fridge started.  It does say in the original manual that it needs to be serviced after sitting for a while.  I think I almost had the pilot light lit twice because I heard the loud noise, but then I got spooked, screamed and let go of the gas button.  You have to hold it down for 10 seconds to make sure the pilot light stays lit. 

 

I follow the directions to the T.  I have tried many times and have yet to be successful.  I think it's $160 an hour to have someone at the RV place look at it.

 

I just want to know I'm doing it correctly in the first place.  I see a faint yellow light and then it turns to a blue.  It's very faint I can barely see it.  I think I hear something for a few seconds, but then the sound goes away. I guess I might possibly need a new/used fridge but want to make sure it's not human error before I buy one.

 

I haven't tried to run it off of an electric plug yet.  I don't know if I can do that by plugging it into the extension cord that goes to my house or what.  Does anyone know if there's a way for me to test the fridge to make sure it works before I go out and buy one?

 

Also, obviously I've only been trying to use fridge off of the propane tank I have filled up.

Edited by Dolphin79
Link to comment
Share on other sites

that faint light that is yellow and turns to blue is your pilot. means it's lighting up fine. takes almost 24 hours to get cold though and no they don't make noise. To try other power source, look at the front of your fridge either top or bottom and find the dial. Find the dial that says gas AC and 12 volt and turn it to the correct power source. Then plug it in. Still takes 24 hours. They are not compressor refrigerators and they work very differently

Linda S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So if I change it from gas to electric on the knob, I can plug it into an extension cord that is plugged into an outlet of my house?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the large vertical cylinder in the compartment is getting warm that means it's trying to work they are slow to get cold and not something you open the door on while you are thinking about what to have for dinner. Most of the DC ones were in motorhomes to take advantage of the running engine but be sure to switch back to gas or AC once you park.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine doesn’t run off of the 12v battery. Just a plug or propane. Can I drive with the propane on and the fridge getting cold, or do I have to get to where I’m going and then turn on the propane? If that’s the case, I’d have to keep my food and stuff in a cooler and then transfer it to the fridge after the fridge took hours to get cold. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Legal and safety issues notwithstanding, yes you can run your refer on propane while traveling.  I just completed a two week 1674 mile trip and never had a problem......turned off the propane on my RM2410 and switched to 115vac  when hookups were available.  

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1333352/Dometic-Rm2410.html#manual

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Marked multiple times in the Dolphin Owners Manual:-

 

image.png.42afaf3006c878396724e75e208b3a66.png

 

Sunrader Owners Manual:-

 

image.png.527beb5690c3a1494abe74731ab64ce9.png

 

It think there are also tunnels and ferries that require propane be off too.

 

Fire.jpg

 

There's a reason that propane locker doors aren't allowed to have a lock. 1st Responders want to be able to be able to turn it off in case of an accident.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/27/2020 at 12:28 AM, Dolphin79 said:

Mine doesn’t run off of the 12v battery. Just a plug or propane. Can I drive with the propane on and the fridge getting cold, or do I have to get to where I’m going and then turn on the propane? If that’s the case, I’d have to keep my food and stuff in a cooler and then transfer it to the fridge after the fridge took hours to get cold. 

 

Having to start over every time you drive somewhere would get old very quickly.  Our fridge is a 3-way, so I suppose I could switch it to 12v when driving, but other than for a long drive, or to conserve propane, I never bother with the 12v, just leave it running on propane.

 

There are some useful tricks to maximize its ability to keep it cool, and they help a lot.  One is, a day or two before you're leaving, plug it in and get it nice and cold for when you're ready to go.  If there's extra room inside, fill in the space with gallon bottles of cold drinking water (you can always remove them to make space if needed, and re-cool them if/when you are somewhere you can plug in overnight).  They'll serve as a buffer to keep things cold much longer, should you need to shut off the propane.  Also, get a thermometer and put it inside the fridge, and set the controls to keep it just above freezing, say 34-35, and mark that spot on the control.  Then set it warmer to where it stays at 38-40, and mark that spot.  Whenever you plug in, set it to the coldest mark, and on propane you can set it to the warmer mark if you want to conserve propane, or if you have to shut it off and re-cool for some reason.  When adding stuff to the refrigerator, try to add stuff that's already cold, if possible, rather than the 6-pack that's been sitting in the sun all morning.

 

As for your earlier extension cord question, the refrigerator doesn't use a lot of power...our Spirit uses just under 200 watts, but that's the refrigerator combined with the battery charger, so any lightweight 16-18 gauge extension cord is fine unless you're going to run the AC or microwave.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Propane is by far the most efficient. Running it alone on a battery will discharge the battery takes a lot of energy to make things hot that sounds backwards but the RV fridges require heat to work. As long as you are driving the MH that's OK but not sitting still. Been thousands of miles with my TT never had an issue running gas never blow out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah. Mine is plug in or propane only. I tested them both out and it gets the fridge just under 40 when I plug in and freezer super freezing cold under 20. Can’t remember where. Maybe around 0. The same when I tested the propane. 
 

it does say not to fill the propane over 80% full on the tank and the flap door, but when I Got it filled they filled it until they couldn’t anymore so it’s on the “Full” mark on the meter. Someone told me that means it’s 80% full. I’m not sure. I just know the OPD wouldn’t let anymore propane go in. 

IMG_6573.PNG

Edited by Dolphin79
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's really takes talent to over fill a propane tank. There is a bleeder valve in the top of the tank it must be opened to allow the propane into the tank from the pump otherwise it can't be filled. When it is close to full there is a steady stream of propane gas escaping from the open valve once it is closed you can no longer add propane and a float valve shuts it off also so that leaves a area of compressed propane gas at the top. Propane boils at about -40* so there is always space. The older tanks had no float valve and they could be somewhat over filled liquid propane is dangerous because of the expansion rate once the pressure is relieved it instantly boils expanding into a huge ball of propane gas. Don't remember the expansion numbers are but they are huge. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...