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Advice on 1981 Sunrader


Otolith

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4 minutes ago, fred heath said:

WME, you’re correct. Lacking a 17 digit VIN, the chassis is definitely an 1980.

The early Toyota ID plates attached to the inner drivers side fender also contains such information as engine type, transmission type, and rear axle type. When in doubt, refer to this information.

Attached is a typical ID plate.

ED6F72FB-64B0-414C-A852-F38C86C741E4.jpeg

That’s it! Actually on the inside of the passenger fender on mine. 1980 20r L43. Thanks Fred

 

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Otolith, you’re welcome.

Not sure if you’ve  addressed this subject. Does your rear axle have 5 lug nuts or 6?

If you have duel rear wheels with only 5 lug nuts (GO82 axle), your axle is unsafe.

You should have a total of 6 lug nuts on your rear axle. This is known as a full float (ff) axle. Hope you had the upgrade. Fred

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11 minutes ago, fred heath said:

Otolith, you’re welcome.

Not sure if you’ve  addressed this subject. Does your rear axle have 5 lug nuts or 6?

If you have duel rear wheels with only 5 lug nuts (GO82 axle), your axle is unsafe.

You should have a total of 6 lug nuts on your rear axle. This is known as a full float (ff) axle. Hope you had the upgrade. Fred

Yes thankfully the axle was swapped to 6 lug including receipts. 
 

Just to derail this post even more: Anyone swap their L43 for the L52? I’d be curious if the swap difficulty as well as improvements in drivability

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3 minutes ago, Otolith said:

Yes thankfully the axle was swapped to 6 lug including receipts. 
 

Just to derail this post even more: Anyone swap their L43 for the L52? I’d be curious if the swap difficulty as well as improvements in drivability

I’ve heard W58 is the way to go. Supposed to be an easy swap. Elongating the tunnel shift hole is only requirement.

I’ve never done this swap (love my L43), but a former member here reports every thing matches up. You will need a 5 speed cross member. Other than that, the spline count, transmission length, everything else should work.

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Still learning the ins and outs of this old thing. Looks like some of the systems were replaced and are a bit jerry-rigged. 

Anyways, I have a water line leak underneath the furnace right where it connects to the bleed valve. I can't find much information on these old lines.

 

What does it take to redo this connection?

 

I'm considering switching the system something like PEX. Seems easy enough besides the really tight areas. Any advice from those who have done this?

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What ever you do remodel, repair remember Sharkbite...https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Pipe-Fittings/SharkBite/N-5yc1vZbqpfZ4n3

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On 4/2/2020 at 10:56 PM, WME said:

What ever you do remodel, repair remember Sharkbite...https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Pipe-Fittings/SharkBite/N-5yc1vZbqpfZ4n3

Thanks for that. After I fixed that one, I noticed the city water valve was leaking. Another thing to replace :)

 

On another note, anyone have good solutions for relocating the propane tank? I have a diamond plate truck tool box I'd like to put on the back of the vehicle. But this blocks the propane access. Options are

1. Relocating propane in rv

2. Swing out cargo box

3. Relocate propane to cargo box? A bit sketchy back there. 

The access for mine is currently above the rear bumper. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Do these have different timing than non-rv 20r motors?

Mine just has an 8, then it has an indented mark next to a raised mark but both of these are offset (to the left) of the 8 instead of directly underneath it. 

The vehicle is good under power but has a slight miss at idle and a tiny bit of wavering at idle. 

I went through the steps to set the low and high idles. 

 

Also, the compression was something like 160, 135, 155, 125 (I don't have them with me)

Then wet compression was something like 160 150 155 145.

 

I believe the car sat for a bit. Possible buildup issues?

 

 

 

 

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I don't have the 20r specs handy, but a 22r is something like 170 lbs with all cylinders within 14 lbs.  So 160, 155, 160, 160 is good. But so is 145, 145, 150, 150. Minimum is 120lbs. 

You have 2 cylinders with more than a 14lbs variance. Also the "good" cylinder showed no change with added oil and the "bad" cylinders showed a big change. Possibility of stuck rings.

An oil change with modern oil and a 50 mile drive MIGHT unstick things. Or you could just have a tired engine.

Good news is that you don't have 2 low cylinders next to each other, so your head gasket is most likely OK

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8 hours ago, Otolith said:

Thanks all. 4 leaks later and it works as it should. 

 

Maybe a stupid question... How do you know the Grey and black water tanks levels?

 

They used a 4 light system on a panel I do not know if and when it was optional but it did give some basic ideal. The water tank by design could not fill the waste tanks, the problem comes with being connected to a water pipe.

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Thanks Derek you are a wealth of info. Looks like I don’t have indicators. Will have to do it the old fashioned way :) 

 

Any advice on where to put an inverter? My house battery is in the engine bay. I'm thinking about putting the inverter in the engine bay with a remote switch and an extension for an outlet.

Thoughts?

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43 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

As near to the house battery as possible to reduce voltage drop is the typical recommendation, but I don't know how well a typical inverter will survive the hostile environment under the hood.

 

Yeah that’s a good point... under the dash might be the happy medium 

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Move the battery..🤡

Here is a wire size vs amps chart...http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

SO you can put the inverter where ever you want it to be, just use the right size 12v cable

Remember if the thing you want to power from the inverter draws 3 amps @120v ac then the inverter will be drawing around 30 amps from the 12v battery. Your going from 12v to 120v which is a factor of 10x plus the losses in the inverter

Edited by WME
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