canadasunrader Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Hey. Strange question/comment. I am assuming that the shell sidewalls are supposed to be relatively straight up and down? I checked today as I prepare to glass in a few aluminum studs. One side is pretty good, but the other is bulging out a good two inches. I don't know what I'm doing but thinking I can gently push it in from the outside while I glass a couple of studs in place. Any thoughts? When I gave it a bit of a try it warbled and complained and I didn't push too hard. Just FYI. I bought this 86 21' Sunrader as a complete rebuild. It was hit by a large tree branch that came through the shell in several areas. I bought it from someone who fiberglassed all of these spots. He did an ok job at putting the egg back together, but I don't think he knew exactly what he was doing. I figure this bulging may be due to this damage. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Or that tree sat on it a long time. I have seen 1 Sunrader with a severely bulging side. Enough so the window could never seal. It sat under a collapsed barn for a couple of years. If it's not too bad your plan will make it better but maybe won't be exactly plumb. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadasunrader Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 Thanks Linda. The Sunrader walls were originally straight up and down though? I will try my best to get it somewhere close. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Crap I was going to put a straight edge next to my camper wall and send you a pic. I'm moving, crazy busy. It's not a completely flat side wall. Widest at the center where the two halves meet. I remember an member a long time ago describing how she scribed the wood wall supports for new cabinets because they aren't straight. Not bulging though Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadasunrader Posted January 30, 2020 Author Share Posted January 30, 2020 Not to worry. Thanks for thinking of that. I am just curious as to how the walls were in the beginning so I can attempt to get them somewhat back there. That is good to know before I attempt to straighten this one side completely out. Perhaps I will leave a little play in there just to be safe? Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Hey Rick, Stopped in and saw your question/reply. I live a block from another 18' owner now, exact same model etc. and have studied other coaches as much as possible. My opinion is that none are exactly the same, at least from what I have seen. I also met a guy who worked in Vallejo at the west coast factory. He knew way too much about my rig to be blowing smoke and regaled me with "tales of the crew" for a bit. They did their best, ......most days.... The finished product, dimensions, quality of work and flaws varied and as Linda said, any previous fiberglass work can also affect how much you can correct distortions and weaknesses. I just tried to get the sides even-looking and reasonably straight. My side braces had about 1" space at the middle/apex on each side, so there is a very slight bow to both sides. I filled the gaps with foam appropriate to fiberglassing then encased most of the length, as you have seen. Linda is spot on in her observation, in my opinion. Long term force and heat over time can distort sides and roof. As she mentioned, make sure you can get a good seal on the window flanges and that they sit as flat as possible. Hope this helps. TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Here's an outside look for how I ended up. The clearance at the middle and up the straighter portion is about 3/4", then it tapers off. Bear in mind this is where I ended up and just my approximation of what stock should have been on my rig. Depending on your PO's work, and wear and tear, things may be different for you. Good luck, TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadasunrader Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 Thank you TG. Really appreciate your expertise. I finished the two windows located on the passenger side wall. They seem good now, finished with a good bead of polyurethane. I will take all of your comments and measurements into consideration as I move forward in putting two vertical beams in on that side. I'm so glad you responded because I was about to force those beams in and make them as straight as I could. Now I will have a little bit more relaxed idea of putting those beams in. I will post some pictures once I get somewhere. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 The technical term is "drift angle". If the sides of a mould are straight it is very hard to remove the part. By making the open end of the mould wider by a small amount removal becomes much easier. The part will pop out. With a 2 piece shell top and bottom you get a wedge shaped side. DO NOT try to make straight sides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadasunrader Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 Ok, thanks for that, but what exactly does that mean. Just how much "drift angle" was in the original shape of the side walls? Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 I would guss its aboit 1" on each side. If you have gutted yours, take a measurement at the rear of the shell. That's the strongest part, about a foot from the rear, would let you know how wide the shell is. Then move that measurement to the middle and you should get an idea of what the walls should looks. You could also use a plumb bob taped to the parting line and see what the measurement is at the bottom of the shell. Do it in the middle and see how far things have to move to make it right. To do things right you need a center line on the floor too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadasunrader Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 Ok, thank you. Will give all of that a go once I get the beams etc ready. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 tape measure inside, plumb bob outside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N2FI Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 When I redid my 83 Sunrader the walls are all over the place When I resealed the large windows I had to wedge everything against my garage to make them seal up real good. I would use a wall if you can to wedge it back to sorta plum if you can then glass in your studs to maintain that shape for you. also while you have it braced add the fir strip to attach your paneling to the wall this will also keep it to a shape of some sort. Good luck . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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