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Sunrader Floor Repair, Gut and Rebuild


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Good advice Rick, I agree spending a little time before visualizing how you want the layout to be can go a really long way in flow and function.

Those access boxes are pretty ratty and old but mostly just visually covering up the hole, I don't have the time for fiberglassing in all those spots.

How's your interior coming along? I'd love to see some pics when you have the chance

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Jay. Here are a few pics of what I have been up to in isolation. :)
We have our van listed for sale [what a terrible time to try and sell a vehicle] so I am waiting on some of the more expensive items I need in order to continue.
In the meantime I have been plugging away at the cabinets and the ceiling.
I don't have a clue of what I'm doing but making it up as I go along.

As said before, I built a two foot square space in the bottom cabinets where a steel door will front the safe.
A while back I pulled off the two plexi windows and did everything I can do before reinstalling them.
I was hoping I could finish the cabover area completely after doing that but there is a small trickle leak when it rains hard on the one side so I am stuck now with what to do with that.
Frustrating.
Otherwise, once we get some cash flow again I plan to get all the battery, solar, lights stuff and wire all that in. Can't really button anything up completely until everything is wired and working.
One hurdle we have is that our fuel gauge has never worked. And I can't even take it for an inspection with that not working as it will not pass.
I've been reading about the issue here on the forum. Seems to be 'normal' with all these toy homes. But what a pain in the behind.
I am not a mechanic, so deathly afraid to begin poking around in there.
My biggest fear is that I will screw it up somehow and then have to have it towed to a mechanic to get fixed.

Anyway..... considering the world in crisis right now, these are all small, first world problems, and I feel lucky to live where I live and that my family is healthy and doing well.
I hope yours is in the same boat.

 

Rick

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Wow Rick that's looking awesome! Nice work so far, it's coming together beautifully!

 

I see you've added a lot of studs around the camper for attaching the walls I'm assuming, how did you attach the studs? Did you just glue them to the wall, and if so what glue did you use?

 

Looks like the rockwool is working out pretty well, how has it been to handle and install?

 

Bummer about the fuel gauge, is it in the gas tank? You can't take it in for smog because the fuel gauge doesn't work?

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Jay.
We don't have a smog inspection here in BC. We used to but they stopped it a few years back.

The inspection I need is to get it registered and licenced here as I imported it from California.

Everything else seems good on the list, but the fuel gauge has to be working to pass. It's a pain in the behind, but will be nice to have a working gauge in the end.

For the studs I just used a good Sika adhesive, but I am guess that if you want to do it "right" you probably should use an epoxy.
I did not because it is upwards of $40 a tube here. So I make do.
Nothing I have put on the walls is going to have much pressure on it so I feel good about it. Mostly it will just hold the 1/4" wall panel.

The upper cabinets are screwed into two headers I ran across the sides at the top, and into the ceiling frame.
The Rockwool has been perfect in price and the installation is fairly easy. Certainly not as nice or easy as say Thinsulate, but again cost was a factor for me.
The batts are very easy to cut down to fit with a bread knife. And I just used some 3M spray glue on the wall to hold it on.
Rick

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I am close to finishing  the back end of mine.  I finally got the old battery hole filled. I am not a body man and I think I sanded and painted it three times before I got it how I wanted it.

I got my ladder back on and the bumper cover.   My hands were tied in knots after installing the screw cover.  I ended up using a heat gun to soften it.  That made it easier but still a pain.  My box goes back on tomorrow.  Feels good to get going on the inside.

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Screw covers are the rubber gaskets that literally cover the screws on the aluminum trim that goes around the camper where the 2 parts of the shell connect. Look at his second pic from last you can see the screws right above the tail lights and across. Look at last pic and they are gone. Covered by that gasket. Warming them up makes them much easier to deal with

Linda S

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'Trim Insert', made of vinyl. Available in 2 widths: Wide (1") and Narrow (3/4").

 

I'm not a Sunrader owner, but I believe they use the Narrow insert. The insert isn't designed to be waterproof, just to cover and beautify the screws that hold the aluminum trim in place.

 

7/8" COLONIAL WHITE RV Marine Vinyl Flat Insert Trim Screw Cover ...

 

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=rv+trim+insert

 

There are other 'profiles' available but I don't remember anyone ever trying them and don't know if the would fit or offer any advantage.

 

https://www.automotiveauthorityllc.com/products/8-white-insert-trim-molding-flexible-screw-cover-rv-boat-camper?variant=33923685449

https://www.automotiveauthorityllc.com/products/white-rv-marine-vinyl-7-8-radius-insert-molding-flexible-screw-cover?variant=33984324041

 

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I actually went with the second profile in Derek's list.  The first picture he has is of what I call the original because it was there when I bought my Sunrader.   However, someone on this forum, I think Linda,  gave a source for the screw cover insert and that site had a sample package of several profiles and sizes. I bought the sample package and tried several. The package also had a few colors. I put them in in different spots on my trim rail and drove them around for a couple months, to be sure they would stay in.  So, the one I chose actually "clips"  into the rail groove.  It does not sit in the bottom of the trim rail as the first picture does above.   I think it gives a smoother look and doesn't allow dirt and crud to build up in the trim rail between the insert and the trim rail.   I will get a picture today.  I cut it long to allow it to shrink back into place. I figured I stretched it putting it in.  I like the look better.

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When I use the vinyl cover, I'll buy.a roll, unroll it and leave it on the shed roof all summer. This preshrinks it. Also if you screw each end down, it looks nice longer

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Derek, I just measured my 1985 "21ft" Sunrader and 50' should do the job.  My "bumper strip" covering the screws measures 46'4".  

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I bought a 50' roll off ebay. I just dug up the receipt. I got it from furniture lady.  She is also the one I ordered the samples from. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-RV-Trailer-1-2-Vinyl-Insert-Window-Trim-Mold-Flexible-Screw-Cover-50-Ft/331997326510?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Here are the pictures I said I would get. Sorry for the soft focus I only had a few seconds to do take them. I forgot my wife was waiting for me for lunch.  I like the look better than the original.  

 

Here is a link for samples. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMPLES-White-Black-RV-Trailer-1-2-5-8-3-4-Vinyl-Insert-Flexible-Screw-Cover/332224101070?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

I needed to be sure how wide I needed to fit my molding.  One of the big problems I had were many of the screws were off center.  I found heating it with a heat gun helped a great deal. When I get it all in I plan to use some black Sikaflex sealer  to seal the ends.  I have the sealer but once it si opened I never seem to get it to last to the next time I need it. So I plan all my needs then go for it.  The original cover was folded under the molding and the molding screwed down to hold it in place.

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Edited by jetalkington
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Her stuff is always fresh. The vinyl is very pliable and you can tell it is not old and been sitting for ages in a warehouse.  I would recommend her anytime.

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Hey Rick,

Yeah they're super easy, just a couple of mounting screws. I spent more time lining them up and making sure they looked straight and even than I did actually installing them. I had to fill in the old screw holes as my new lights didn't line up, but that was as complicated as it got.

 

Jetalkington: Nice job on the fiberglass, came out great. And that screw trim looks really good, seems to install in a more 'even' fashion than the original stuff. You can see waves and bumps in mine where it doesn't seat as well or deformed when I pushed it in.

 

I would guess for a 21' Sunrader you'd need 100ft as well, I just did my 18' and I used half of a 100ft roll. Also if you wanna redo any of the appliance access doors you'll definitely need more than 50ft.

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Thanks Jay. Did enough wire come with them? Or did you add your own, or tie into the existing?
And are you going to install a backup camera, if so which one?
Rick

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They came with about 5 inches of wire on each side, which I then tied into a new line I ran from the passenger brake light all the way around through the front clearance lights. My wires had a decent amount of corrosion on the ends and the brake lights weren't even working originally so I decided to replace it all, as well as the connections to the rear light assembly. Everything is working as it should now thankfully. Those little t-connectors were a nice way to tie into a line and were pretty cheap as well.

 

I'm not sure on a backup camera yet, if I do I thought I'd run the wire underneath the cab as I don't want too many wires buried too deep behind the walls preventing access. Never even pondered which one...are you going to add one and if so which? Will you run the cable inside the coach or outside? Now that I think of it it'd be nice to mount up high looking down like delivery vans do, vs low on the bumper or something which is what I was originally thinking.

 

I also managed to seal everything up except the old water fill hole (i'm replacing with a locking unit) and the furnace vent hole which I dunno what I'm gonna do yet.

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Candasunrader: did you get LED?  If so they are directional on the wiring. Meaning the current will only flow one way in them.  Test them on your battery to see which one is ground and and which is the lead wire. Might save you some frustration.  

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The rivets are holding the ladder on. I thought about replacing them with bolts but then decided I'd just epoxy and glass over them to reinforce.

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Right?! I've been constantly surprised and what amounts to "acceptable" on this thing.... of course I shouldn't be considering the rear axle issues they all felt comfortable sending people down the road with lol. Who cares about the ladder falling off when the wheels won't even stay on!

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I know I should, I'm just getting tired of having to redo every goddamn thing on this rig lol. I guess drilling out the rivets and putting in bolts isn't that much work, but man it'd be nice to actually get to building the interior one day. And then there's always the dream of actually using the thing, but I don't wanna get ahead of myself

 

Hey Rick, how far out do your cabinets go from the sidewall?

Edited by JaySam
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Hmmmm. Jay. As far as cabinets go I just measured off of that outside edge of the wheel well.
I wanted my space to be much more wide open than the original so my cabinets angle outward from there giving me some more room.
And Derek, can you please let us know how to reattach the ladder the 'right' way?
I am going to take mine off and once painted etc reattach. Derek please let us know how.
Thanks, Rick

 

 

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Do you really think those rivets won't hold?  There are 16 of them.  Fiberglass is tough.  I think the key is to be sure they are long enough and the hole is the right size.

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Rivets definitely sketchy. At the very least redo them and use a washer on the inside to spread the load out and prevent pull through

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