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 not sure if related Having electrical  problems after water leaking on passengers side with steam 

coming out of dash by windshied after rain now thats seams have dried out and stopped 

but now the heaters blowing  cold and the motors overheating on 1984 22r?

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Well for starters look at your coolant. Is there still any there. Testing compression in cylinders is a sure way to know. I you can't do it maybe a mobile repair guy. When you start it does it run really rough? Check your oil, does it look milky like coffee with cream. That's a dead giveaway for head gasket failure. 

Linda S

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If it is the head gasket you’re lucky you have a 22R and not the V-6.

Toyota designed the 20R and 22R so the head can be removed while leaving the intake and exhaust manifolds attached to the head. This will save lots on labor charges. I changed my 20R head gasket in my driveway.

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On 12/28/2019 at 2:08 PM, linda s said:

Sorry to tell you this but sounds like a blown head gasket. Pressure blew out the heater core and that's what caused the water on the passenger side floor. You need to have it checked out right away and don't drive it.

Linda S

Going to auto zone to borrow compression tester,not sure about oil looks like  its always after been used awhile no smoke out of exhaust

is it possible to blow out the heating core without a blown head gasket?

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14 minutes ago, Bigdog said:

Going to auto zone to borrow compression tester,not sure about oil looks like  its always after been used awhile no smoke out of exhaust

is it possible to blow out the heating core without a blown head gasket?

I had a heater core that just started leaking from corrosion in one of my past cars...yours is 35 years old so it is possible.

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Used oil just looks dark. Oil with water in it from blown gasket looks lighter like coffee with cream. Heater cores can go bad and leak but yours sounds more like a sudden blow out. Take the input heater hose off and see if there's still coolant in there. Now that i think of it. Your said there was water on the floor. No coolant? Did you have coolant in your system? I wouldn't even try to test my compression, beyond me but I have never tried. Shouldn't cost much to have it done

Linda S

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Lack of heat is a pretty common issue with a leaking head gasket. It's the high point and fills with compression by products instead of coolant.

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An old trick for checking for water in oil is to let a few drops from the dipstick drop onto a hot surface(usually the exhaust manifold) if it only “smokes” you’re good. If it “sizzles”, there’s water in the oil.

Since you can’t use your MH engine for this you could use whatever vehicle your driving to perform the same test. It won’t prove a blown head gasket, but useful for diagnosis.

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A compression check - and it's fairly easy if you're mechanically inclined - won't always reveal a blown head gasket, so if the check comes out OK or inconclusive, you still haven't fully ruled it out.  However if the compression is clearly bad, it's a very strong indicator of head gasket, combined with your symptoms.  I replaced a head gasket in one car only to find no improvement due to cracks in the head which I didn't realize were there until the new head gasket made no difference.   ...that said, blown head gasket is highly, highly likely given this particular motor & your symptoms.

Your oil color won't necessarily change early in the game on a blown head gasket & sometimes the gasket leak won't transfer water into the oil at all (and I haven't heard of that trick of dripping oil on the exhaust manifold - good one!).  If compression is OK, the right mechanic & shop will do an overnight leak-down test which does confirm head gasket (or in some cases worse, like the problem I had which I mentioned above, cracks in the head between the compression chamber & the water jacket). 

Sorry to be a Negative Nancy here, but you're probably needing a mechanic at this point.  Partly because the penalty for trying to drag it out by adding coolant back in & driving it much is kinda high - you damage other things in the system, which was my problem years ago, I probably started with a head gasket issue & drove it, causing those cracks I mentioned.  And partly because you really do need experienced eyes on it.

If you get enough coolant back in to drive direct to the shop within a few miles, you can avoid the towing cost.  But you are in danger of warping the entire head, so it needs to be close by.  Just make sure the shop is one which 1) can do the work, and 2) has given a decent ballpark estimate on a "happy-path" head gasket repair (ie, no other problems found & things go well). 

Now being a shade tree mechanic myself, if/when my 22RE does the same thing, I'm likely to just replace mine in the driveway like Fred did - because it's cheap & not too hard to do it myself.  And if it doesn't solve the problem, then it'll be time for the more serious & costly diagnosis & fix (or maybe I'd just pick up a used head & have it R&R'd at a machine shop, & slap it on, aka a full "head job").

Luck...

PS - I don't recall electrical problems also being part of the picture on a leaking head gasket, so you might have another "moving part" to deal with.

PPS - given your symptoms, your chances of head gasket issues being the cause are very high.

Edited by tstockma
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Try this....remove the two hoses going to the heater and join them together.....then pressurize the cooling system and see if it holds pressure.If pressure holds its a good chance it IS just a leaking heater core. I'm thinking the radiator cap should have opened and blown off steam before the heater core gave if the core was still in good shape.

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That area is also known as a rain water leak area. Put your finger in the wet spot and touch it to you tongue if it's anti freeze you will know right away.

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I'm reading that initial description more carefuly....electrical probably unconnected....last two posts have convinced me the water on floor is wuite possibly just rainwater...overheating & no heat from heater, can happen from low coolant. 

If you fill with coolant & are sure the engine's cooling system is fully charged with coolant (no air pockets, etc), then turn heater to cold, drive an hour or two & see if you lose significant coolant.  RV Trader's suggestion about bypassing the heater core is also a very good one, having the heater turned to cold will minimize pressure in the heater core, and yes heater cores do blow steam when they have issues, and leak significant amounts of coolant.

So you might be lucky & just have a heater or some other leaks going on, & when the coolant level is so low it won't put heat out the heater, then it also will overheat because the pump isn't pumping coolant to other spots.

OK you have some more investigating!

Edited by tstockma
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Please don't fill the coolant and drive around an hour or two. 22r's are a small engine and heat up quickly. At most drive around your block for a while so if it does overheat again you can let it cool off for a while and still get it home. 

Linda S

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If you decide to run the engine check the exhaust for white smoke. If it’s white you’re getting water in the combustion chamber. Chances are its the head gasket or a cracked block (depending on how long you let the engine run while overheating).

My guess would be head gasket.

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On 12/29/2019 at 12:10 PM, linda s said:

Well for starters look at your coolant. Is there still any there. Testing compression in cylinders is a sure way to know. I you can't do it maybe a mobile repair guy. When you start it does it run really rough? Check your oil, does it look milky like coffee with cream. That's a dead giveaway for head gasket failure. 

Linda S

Did the compression test today

149/150 across started up for a short time after no whit smoke some moisture from tail pipe third and fourth spark plugs not as clean as first two ,rough idle but always did until auto choked warmed up? No coolant added water before starting.

 

 

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