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Finally finishing up my front-end suspension rebuild on the Warrior. Which has been a heckuva serious job. 

Anyway, while tearing things apart under the drivers side, I noticed a lot of fluid leakage over just about everything below the frame rail (actually, kind of a good thing, in that those areas seem to be less rusted than expected). Looks like the steering gear box is leaking from one-or-multiple orifices, and I'm wondering if anybody's had experience rebuilding that thing? New/reman boxes are pricey. Rebuild kits with all the seals and stuff are available, but it looks like a fairly complex job. I guess some people will start with one of the stop-leak products, but I'm not much of a fan of that approach.

Thoughts?

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Yes I have done it and then a few months later ended up replacing the whole box with a good one I found at the salvage yard.

I believe I have some instructions I found online if you want them. It is not an easy job but I did it and it seemed ok but what ruined it is the adjustment screw you can see at the outside top of the unit that adjusts the ball bearings, you get that wrong and the box will be ruined in a few thousand miles. 

If possible only replace the seals that are leaking not completely overhaul the box and yeah stop leak additive is just a cheap band aid.

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You will need some tools.

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Another approach which can work well, at least it did on old Corvairs & Chevys...   Drain, replace the bottom drain plug with same-size thread device outfitted with a zerk grease fitting.  Pump it up with plain old grease.  This can work surprisingly well.  And if yours is bad enough you'll have to replace or rebuild anyway, it's low risk - nuthin to lose, as long as you know how to find a rebuilt one if the idea doesn't work...   I did this to an old '61 Corvair station wagon & it lasted as long as the car did, which was another 70k miles.

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5 hours ago, tstockma said:

Another approach which can work well, at least it did on old Corvairs & Chevys...   Drain, replace the bottom drain plug with same-size thread device outfitted with a zerk grease fitting.  Pump it up with plain old grease.  This can work surprisingly well.  And if yours is bad enough you'll have to replace or rebuild anyway, it's low risk - nuthin to lose, as long as you know how to find a rebuilt one if the idea doesn't work...   I did this to an old '61 Corvair station wagon & it lasted as long as the car did, which was another 70k miles.

Works for manual steering, but not a good idea for power steering

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A toy home with manual steering? What a work out!

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I've seen several Sunraders with no power steering. One of them was even a 1988 but had a 22re engine. All the shorty's though. For some reason I'm thinking Totem's Sunrader didn't have power either and his is a full sized one. 

Linda S

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Yeah there were a few of them but with the extra weight they were not much fun to park!  

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Appreciate the ideas and tips, everyone. And, Ed, thanks for mentioning the adjustment screw setting: I'll take some photos and measure w/caliper before removal, if it comes to that.

When I get the chance, I'm going to spray the thing down with solvent, let it dry, and then try to see exactly where the leaks are appearing. I topped off the PS reservoir a few days ago and, without driving the rig or even starting it, I now see more fluid trickling out below the steering gear. So at least one seal is in pretty bad condition.

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If the leak is only coming from where the steering shaft enters at the top then that seal is easy to pry out and replace with box remaining in the vehicle.

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15 hours ago, ednelson100 said:

If the leak is only coming from where the steering shaft enters at the top then that seal is easy to pry out and replace with box remaining in the vehicle.

Great info. Hoping that it is just the one seal. It's definitely the right time to do it, since I already have the CAs and steering knuckle removed and good access down there.

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Cleaned the steering gear and then started her up; input shaft began a slow drip immediately. Nothing else seemed to be leaking

I see around the Internet that Napa NOS 7007 is the preferred seal, although Timken and National seem to have an identical seal, PN 710156. 

What’s the best way to get that seal out of there, once the steering shaft is disconnected?

D5B306DD-CD71-490B-AD6F-13537665ABEE.jpeg.7f787a0a94460c63e9b1a478e00de912.jpeg

 

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Remove the snap ring start the enging turn the steering shaft to a hard stop.

Edited by Maineah

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So, I'm posting another photo (from the top, this time) because:

1) I've removed the pinch bolt but am not sure how to get the steering shaft free from the input shaft (aside from removing the entire steering gear, pulling it forward, which I was under the impression wasn't necessary).

2) I have changed seals before but, despite what you folks are saying, this one just doesn't look like it can be swapped out—looks like the seal is "captured," and there's not much room between the shaft and its housing.

Comments and suggestions appreciated.
 

IMG_3186.jpg.4b3110968075072651db943619f5d3ea.jpg

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Remove the bolts on the rubber steering coupler. The steering shaft should move enough for you to get thing apart.

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Scoured the web, researching this repair, and discovered that my rig has the newer box (see photo). Then found this quote on Yota Tech, which confirmed my suspicion:

...had to change the input shaft seal and it is MUCH more difficult on the newer style box. You can change the input shaft seal on the older boxes in a matter of minutes, to change the input shaft seal on the newer boxes require that you take the whole box apart. 

So, shoot, crap... Now it's just a question of whether I want to attempt the teardown/rebuild or find a good reman or used unit. 

 

steeringboxes-600.jpg.6d77103b43b8dbb1ff20650f1428073b.jpg

Edited by Ctgriffi

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If you Google on 

toyota truck steering box seal replacement

Several how to videos come up

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Ended up pulling my box and dropping it off locally for a full rebuild—too many projects right now, and I need to get the Warrior front-end back together and working, if I want to start using it again this spring...

Turns out, the physical location of PowerSteering.com is just 10 miles from me. The owner, Marty, was helpful and willing to give me a competitive price, and I have to say that the thing looks pretty darn good, right? Dropped it back in the chassis this afternoon and bolted it back down, easy-peasy. I'll report back once I put some miles on it, etc.
 

ctgriffi-steering-gear-rebuilt.jpg.2f1f6e0209e8e56709fc9235a6fd35ca.jpg

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My question is related to a few of the earlier posts in this thread. Point me elsewhere if you wish.

The 18ft Sunrader I am looking at doesn't have power steering. I'm a beefy enough guy and my wife takes no prisoners either, but we're getting older and creekier. If we get this unit, I would want to upgrade the steering. Has anyone tried swapping a electric power steering unit from a second gen 2004-2009 Prius into an early 80s pickup? An electric unit wouldn't tap into the worthy and sturdy 97 hp of the 22R engine. It also comes without the additional weight, plumbing, maintenance and fluids of a used hydraulic system.  

The swap described below is into a late 60s or early 70s Mustang and possibly required more rebuilding than any of the later Toyota pickups used for motorhomes. Certainly I could try and source a used OEM unit but there are some benefits to EPS.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/150-electric-power-steering-junkyard-prius-delivers/

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26 minutes ago, akwcanoe said:

My question is related to a few of the earlier posts in this thread. Point me elsewhere if you wish.

The 18ft Sunrader I am looking at doesn't have power steering. I'm a beefy enough guy and my wife takes no prisoners either, but we're getting older and creekier. If we get this unit, I would want to upgrade the steering. Has anyone tried swapping a electric power steering unit from a second gen 2004-2009 Prius into an early 80s pickup? An electric unit wouldn't tap into the worthy and sturdy 97 hp of the 22R engine. It also comes without the additional weight, plumbing, maintenance and fluids of a used hydraulic system.  

The swap described below is into a late 60s or early 70s Mustang and possibly required more rebuilding than any of the later Toyota pickups used for motorhomes. Certainly I could try and source a used OEM unit but there are some benefits to EPS.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/150-electric-power-steering-junkyard-prius-delivers/

A proper one to fit the truck would be the easiest. I believe the Prius is rack and pinion steering completely different.
 

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Multiple choices depend on your craftiness and wallet thickness 🤪

1. Wrecking yard get everything from a 22r truck... gearbox, pump, hoses and brackets $$

2. Wrecking yard get gearbox from a 22r truck... get aftermarket electric power steering pump.$$$...https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2013-VOLVO-S40-C30-C70-V50-ELECTRIC-POWER-STEERING-PUMP-OEM/254430204321?fits=Make%3AVolvo&hash=item3b3d38d1a1:g:9TMAAOSw50Vd1~zB

3. After market electric shaft conversion. $$$$...https://epasperformance.com/products/custom-power-steering-kit

 

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You're probably seen this link already, akwcanoe, but I'll drop it in here for the rest of us because it is interesting/relevant:

 

https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/wheels_and_brakes/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

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Thanks for the prompt and detailed reply, everyone. It's seems like a hybrid solution of 22R gearbox, etc and electric pump might be the best option. Really don't want to add any drag on the engine. It doesn't have AC either and that upgrade is also on my mind. 

Thanks again for all the links. I had been on some of them before but not all and together they gave me a better sense of what might be possible. I expect/hope to buy it anyway. Might just have to spend more time in the gym:) 😥

Edited by akwcanoe
Clarification and thank yous

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On 1/30/2020 at 1:16 PM, akwcanoe said:

Thanks for the prompt and detailed reply, everyone. It's seems like a hybrid solution of 22R gearbox, etc and electric pump might be the best option. Really don't want to add any drag on the engine. It doesn't have AC either and that upgrade is also on my mind. 

Thanks again for all the links. I had been on some of them before but not all and together they gave me a better sense of what might be possible. I expect/hope to buy it anyway. Might just have to spend more time in the gym:) 😥

Adding an electric power steering box will not help you at all as far as engine drag if anything it will increase the drag on the alternator something has to make the power to turn assisted steering frankly the hydraulic system is more efficient and bolt on.

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On 1/8/2020 at 6:29 PM, Ctgriffi said:

Ended up pulling my box and dropping it off locally for a full rebuild—too many projects right now, and I need to get the Warrior front-end back together and working, if I want to start using it again this spring...

Turns out, the physical location of PowerSteering.com is just 10 miles from me. The owner, Marty, was helpful and willing to give me a competitive price, and I have to say that the thing looks pretty darn good, right? Dropped it back in the chassis this afternoon and bolted it back down, easy-peasy. I'll report back once I put some miles on it, etc.
 

ctgriffi-steering-gear-rebuilt.jpg.2f1f6e0209e8e56709fc9235a6fd35ca.jpg

How much is a competitive price?   Expiring minds need to know.   

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Haha, "expiring or inquiring" ? I like it! :)

 

So, I'd rather not throw out the exact number... but I can tell you that it (slightly) beat out anything I came across on RockAuto or elsewhere online. I'd just call around locally—good to support local shops when you can, and it makes sense to avoid shipping costs on a ~45lb hunk of iron.

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