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Since i buy my motorhome 2012:  rough idle , rpm high and low some times, shaky engine. Last month code 25 and 26 at the same time . reset the code after  now i have code 25. brad new engine block 25k miles ago. spark plug cap, rotor, wires, oxygen sensor fuel filter replace injectors (reman rockauto).Chek cold start injectors no leak. Clean throtle body  no loose every thing look good new gasket of course. No crack on vacuum hose. replace air flow meter whit used one. Always the same problem. the only thing that i have not replace is: tps and temp sensor. Anybody have this problem?

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just looked up the codes -  oxygen sensor.  

btw, you mentioned erratic idling/ checked vacuum line.   FYI: there are a LOT of places for a vacuum leak on the VZ3E engine. Vacuum leaks can cause similar symptoms.

ALSO - note the the codes generated in pre ODBII engines like these ARE sometimes quite misleading.

I would throw an O2 sensor at it - about $100.   good news there is only 1 to change.  They do go bad and can be hard to diagnose. 

I

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IIRC there are 2 O2 sensors on the Kalifornia models?  The 02 sensor is a maintenance item and my 93 Toyota manual says Toyota will replace it for free at 80,000 miles on the V6. 

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I think i found my problem. I replace my oxygen sensor 5 year ago with a denso 2344055 but when i look with my vin number on Toyota parts deal .: 89465-39226 on rockauto the denso number 2344051. Do you think the wrong oxygen sensor could be my problem?

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Maybe but if it were the wrong one it probably would have shown up pretty quick. The O2 sensor most likely would not cause any noticeable difference in the running of the engine however a poor running engine can produce a O2 code. There a lot of parts it can get expensive quickly throwing parts at it.

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Here is what you can do to check the O2 sensor using a voltmeter on the low voltage DC setting. Once the engine is warm probe the O2 wire generally it's green and a good ground the voltage change and should be active reading between 0 and 1 volt 0 being lean and 1 rich if it changes slowly or stays in the 0 or 1 (or close to it) it's toes up. 

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  • Derek up North changed the title to Code 25 and 26
  • 3 months later...

I found my problem. The cylinder no 4 is dead, i have a burn exhaust valve. I check the gap with filler gage and 0.001'' don't go under the cam and i do compression test 35 psi. Only 25 k miles after Toyota made a complete rebuilt engine with brand new blocks, crank and pistons.

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Before you start taking things apart change the shim and try it again if it's recently started there is a chance it's nothing more than too tight a valve. A tight valve with make the valve open earlier then it should. 

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Check ALL your valves. #6 is usually the problem child

Edited by WME
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I'll add it will effect the O2 readings your O2 sensor probably is telling the truth. A tight ex valve will eventually burn, an intake a lot less likely. Valve adjustment was a service on the 3L after awhile Toyota got it right and the shims ware at the same rate as the valve.

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I sent the shim in machine shop to grind it. The cylinder no 4 raise to 85 psi. Exhaust  valve is definitely dead. Cylinder no 1 : .002'' on exhaust valve. all the valve on this engine are out of spec.

Toyota dealer don't do a good job on this engine. I take two weeks of vacation todo the job.

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  • 1 month later...

I remove my heads of my engine and 11 valves was burns. I change idler timing belt, radiator Liland  all aluminium 3 row from rock auto. I drove 200 miles today and he run fine no check engine

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