Northoak Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 Hey y'all I'm ordering all the parts to replace my rear output seal, extension housing bushing and slip yoke to hopefully end my terrible A43D transmission leak. The replacement yoke I found in an older thread on here is this one: https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/PTI-1303-41.html It measures 6.125" from the centerline of the joint to the end of the spline. My orignal measures about 5.750" from the center of the joint to the end of the spline. Thats a .375" difference, Any thoughts on if if the slight difference in length would cause problems or not? The measurement I'm speaking of is J in the picture below: U-Joint Series Toyota Spline Major Diameter 1.100 Spline Count 21.000 Spline Type Involute Universal Joint Retaining Width E 2.047 Universal Joint Bearing Diameter D 1.142 Centerline of Joint to End of Spline J 6.125 Ground Hub Diameter R 1.495 Counterbore Diameter 0.000 Counterbore Depth 0.000 Style Snap Ring Slip Yoke Plug part number (included) Compatible U-Joint Kits PTI-1351-20 Notes Toyota ps. my truck is actually not an rv but a 83 longbed with a pretty massive camper shell. I've found this forum a lot more helpful than the other Toyota ones for automatic info. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 I would be concerned about it bottoming out that could cause you some greef. Beyond the end of output shaft is the governor you definitely don't want the yoke pressing on it. 3/8" is a pretty fair difference. It would be better if it was a bit short. Being a loaded truck the yoke would be in pretty far all ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 You could buy the real thing. https://carmarka.com/en/search/index?q=37302-30020 You should check the part number using your vin but someone else bought a part from Dubai not long ago and shipping was reasonable and he received it quickly. Not sure if this is the same seller, I can't find his post. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northoak Posted August 26, 2019 Author Share Posted August 26, 2019 Thanks for getting back! The only ones I’ve been able to find have holes that are too small for the u joint cap. I’ll try to find the specs on the one you linked Linda! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 I got the part number from Toyota website. Since it's not aftermarket specs won't likely be available anywhere. Do put your vin in this site though and make sure part number is correct. I might not have had enough details on your truck when I looked Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northoak Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 (edited) Damn, after some research it looks like 37302-30020 is the yoke I need but when I tried to order it from carmaka they said they don’t actually have it. It seems to me listed but out of stock in quite a few places. Edited August 27, 2019 by Northoak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 Is your existing one badly scored? Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northoak Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 It’s not terrible but definitely scored. I replaced the rear output seal three times and still have the dreaded transmission leak to the point of loosing 4th after an hour or two on the highway. Right now I have to top it off weekly for city driving. I’m hoping to do a new bushing, yoke and seal all at the same time if I can track one down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 Can you mark where the yoke was when sitting assembled? If so, take the yoke off the shaft & slide it in by hand to see if it is touching anything. If the splines will allow it, and the yoke is .375 too long, a good machine shop with a lathe can shorten your "too long part"..... Do some measuring if the part can't be found Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odyssey 4x4 Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 I had an issue with the transmission overheating on my Escaper and eventually wearing out the bushing and leaking all the trans fluid out. I brought the yoke with me to a heavy truck supply and they were able to provide a new one for me. I could not figure out what was causing the dang thing to overheat until I went to rebuild my engine. The trans cooler line going into the radiator was completely kinked off. The kink was so perfect that it looked like a factory error, but whoever installed that trans cooler line must have been blind or a dishonest mechanic. It never overheated or wasted the output shaft bushing again after opening that line back up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northoak Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 Not a bad idea Donny! My own lathe is a little sketchy but maybe I can find someone odyssey: that is wild! Is it an a43d? If so where is that located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 13 hours ago, Northoak said: It’s not terrible but definitely scored. I replaced the rear output seal three times ... So the seal(s) have worn the yoke? https://www.skf.com/ca/en/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 Depending on how the splines were cut would determine if it could be shortened. This was a common problem in general with those transmissions they wore the bushing out and if left alone it would eventually trash the governor bore requiring a rebuild and machining of the governor bore. If there is the slightest discrepancy in diameter of the yoke it needs to be replaced not only do they rotate they also move in and out. They are amazingly tough transmissions but that was a common issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 12 hours ago, Odyssey 4x4 said: I had an issue with the transmission overheating on my Escaper and eventually wearing out the bushing and leaking all the trans fluid out. I brought the yoke with me to a heavy truck supply and they were able to provide a new one for me. I could not figure out what was causing the dang thing to overheat until I went to rebuild my engine. The trans cooler line going into the radiator was completely kinked off. The kink was so perfect that it looked like a factory error, but whoever installed that trans cooler line must have been blind or a dishonest mechanic. It never overheated or wasted the output shaft bushing again after opening that line back up! Must have had an auxiliary cooler I have seen that before but with no cooling it is unlikely it would last much more than a day. One of our guy replaced an old MB air cooled transmission with a new water cooled trans figuring if it didn't have cooler lines it didn't need them next morning it was in the yard with a burnt up trans. Many new radiators came like that to protect the threads and keep stuff like bees out of the cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odyssey 4x4 Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 There wasn’t another trans cooler if I remember correctly! Someone had to have seen that when they hooked the lines up, that’s why I figured it was someone that shouldn’t be working on cars or a mechanic that wanted job security. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 17 hours ago, Odyssey 4x4 said: Looking at the photo, it's hard to believe that crimp wasn't made intentionally by a machine. I've read of racers with automatic transmissions will install, rather than the original shared (coolant/ATF) style radiator, a manual transmission radiator so that 100% of the radiator is cooling the engine and a separate large transmission cooler just for the ATF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northoak Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 (edited) Thanks for all the replies, a new bushing and seal is in the mail. Here’s what I’m working with yoke wise, unfortunately I’m pretty sure a speedy sleeve wouldn’t sit where the scoring is. There arent a lot of 79-83 pickups coming through pick n pull here in the Bay Area and the 84 and up models seem to use driveshafts/yokes with smaller holes for the u joint caps. Spent a good deal of time searching and went to a driveshaft shop who said the combination u joint I would need doesn’t exist. I guess I could try to pull half of the two part driveshaft on a later model and swap that with mine. It’d be a bit pricy but then I could use the later yoke that is still available Edited August 28, 2019 by Northoak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 Well this is an 82 in Sac https://www.picknpull.com/vehicle_details.aspx?VIN=JT4RN34S7C0040022 Here's an 85 long bed in Fairfield if you want to pull the driveshaft. https://www.picknpull.com/vehicle_details.aspx?VIN=JT4RN55D1F0144294 Labor day weekend all parts are half price. Drive shafts go for 75 bucks so you could save a fair amount. Ya know that 82 probably has the yoke you need Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northoak Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 Thanks Linda, I may have to go on a lil pick and pull trip this weekend. i just dropped the driveshaft of an 87 at the Richmond pic n pull today but unfortunately both the yoke and shaft were too long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 4 hours ago, Northoak said: Thanks for all the replies, a new bushing and seal is in the mail. Here’s what I’m working with yoke wise, unfortunately I’m pretty sure a speedy sleeve wouldn’t sit where the scoring is. There arent a lot of 79-83 pickups coming through pick n pull here in the Bay Area and the 84 and up models seem to use driveshafts/yokes with smaller holes for the u joint caps. Spent a good deal of time searching and went to a driveshaft shop who said the combination u joint I would need doesn’t exist. I guess I could try to pull half of the two part driveshaft on a later model and swap that with mine. It’d be a bit pricy but then I could use the later yoke that is still available It's toast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northoak Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 (edited) Anyone know if the driveshaft on an 84 dually sunraider is the standard two part or not? Someone is parting one out in my area. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/d/oakland-1984-toyota-pickup-sunrader-22r/6965952937.html Edited August 28, 2019 by Northoak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 The early ones were built on a non dually axle truck so should be same as yours. This one though has a true dually upgrade though. Those wheels only fit a real dually. If I was you I would change out the axle too. Then no worries about all the weight your putting on your truck. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northoak Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 Hello again, after battling a rounded bolt on my transmission mount I was able to pull my extension housing, replace the bushing and seal, put a Speedi sleeve on the worst part of the yoke and put it all back together. Only time will tell if it leaks. Here’s the problem though. There is no oil tube in my extension housing. At first I thought it was missing but it appears there is no passage for it to fit into the extension housing. I lined up the bushing with the hole in the same place for this theoretical oil passage to flow to but the surface where the bushing fits has no holes for fluid to travel through. Im wondering if the earlier models didn’t have this tube? I’m assuming the grooves in the bushing are the only way fluid flows to yoke? That or a previous owner or mechanic really messed up. My truck is an 83 longbed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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