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does anyone know if code 61 would cause it to not start at all? i was taking it out on the road the other day and it just stalled at random.i was able to pull it over to a safe place and now get it back home. just stalled without warning.it will turn over but will not start.i checked the codes and only get code 61..i know thats a speed sensor but wasnt sure it would actually cause it to not start or run at all..

1989 odyssey

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Most likely not first things first check the fuel pressure. 61 is a transmission code.

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On 6/30/2019 at 2:53 PM, Maineah said:

Most likely not first things first check the fuel pressure. 61 is a transmission code.

i didnt think that would cause a run issue. i did do some work on the fuel tank not long ago including redoing the wires on the fuel pump.so i may need to go through everything and check it.

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45 minutes ago, prodrumernate said:

i didnt think that would cause a run issue. i did do some work on the fuel tank not long ago including redoing the wires on the fuel pump.so i may need to go through everything and check it.

Have someone turn the ignition on (don’t start the truck), and lay under the fuel tank and see if you hear the fuel pump come on and prime. That’s a start to diagnosing. 

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Key on the pump runs for short duration to prim the system, once the air flow meter detects air movement the pump will run. The fuel system runs at about 35 psi the pressure is very important everything else is based on fuel pressure it is not monitored by the ECM all though it will try to correct the mix it can not correct the pressure.

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    When a motor turns over but makes no attempt to start it is either getting no fuel or no spark to the cylinders. The best place to start is determining if it is getting fuel. While someone is turning the key to start spray some engine starting fluid in the intake, if it attempts to start then your issue is fuel not reaching the cylinders. If nothing then you are getting no spark. This is what I use:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Engine-Starting-Fluid-11-fl-oz/21618347?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=1803&adid=22222222227025394652&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80392907928&wl4=aud-481962823846:pla-111021284448&wl5=9028058&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=21618347&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwx_boBRA9EiwA4kIELqOfBKGeV1x5kDDAHTeKjSUyG5HglaOZNc57W8eQmH-GjeAYPKm3khoCEdQQAvD_BwE

You can also squirt a shot of gasoline if you do not have starting fluid.

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It starts so what do you do next? Check the fuel pressure, or you could turn the key on with a gauge attached first. I can't stress enough how important fuel pressure is in a port injected engine once that's established you can move on. The fact the fuel pump wiring has been disturbed it's highly suspect.

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Once fuel pressure is confirmed the next suspect is spark. You can pull a single spark plug out of it and test it you are indeed getting spark. Hold the plug in your hand and with the plug wire attached to the plug, touch the base of the plug (area with the threads) against a ground, the engine works fine as a ground as long as its clean bare metal. Have someone turn the key over trying to start the engine and watch and see if you see the plug spark arching. Be warned it will shock you if you hold it right but it isn't too bad 😵

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hopefully i can get it up and running soon as i maybe moving next month.. luckily my job is an aircraft mechanic specializing in fuel repair and im also a small engine mechanic :) thought vehicles a little different. its time to go down the list as everyone mentioned. im sure ill have questions so ill be back. only downside is i have to cut hole in floor to get to fuel pump. its parked on street and i live in apartment..  but i have scrap aluminum to place over hole..

 

thank you everyone.i appreciate it. i dont want to have to sell it rite after getting it.

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Although a hole in the floor is the easier route, dropping a tank isn't THAT much work. Unless of course yours is custom and/or welded in or something! 

 

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6 hours ago, Odyssey 4x4 said:

dropping a tank

Odyssey 4x4 is right, dropping a tank down is the way it's "supposed" to be done.  I can see the allure of cutting a hole in the floor and getting to it that way.  But do consider taking the tank down first if indeed it becomes obvious that you need to change the fuel pump or otherwise get into the tank.  You may find that even if you cut a hole in the floor you can't easily get to all of the bolts and hose connectors for example. 

If it's like mine there are like three bolts on an angled support at the front and back of the tank.   Yes, it's a pain to figure out how to support the tank on a jack of some sort and lower it down.   I used stacks of 2x4's on each end and stepped it down until I could get at the pump.  You want to get the whole rig up on jack stands pretty high if you can as it makes it all much easier. I had to get to the wires and fuel line connections on top of the tank to loosen them before it would come down. Unpleasant for sure, but do-able.   Be sure to drain it before you start in on this if possible as a heavy tank is harder to deal with.

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4 hours ago, AtlantaCamper said:

Odyssey 4x4 is right, dropping a tank down is the way it's "supposed" to be done.  I can see the allure of cutting a hole in the floor and getting to it that way.  But do consider taking the tank down first if indeed it becomes obvious that you need to change the fuel pump or otherwise get into the tank.  You may find that even if you cut a hole in the floor you can't easily get to all of the bolts and hose connectors for example. 

If it's like mine there are like three bolts on an angled support at the front and back of the tank.   Yes, it's a pain to figure out how to support the tank on a jack of some sort and lower it down.   I used stacks of 2x4's on each end and stepped it down until I could get at the pump.  You want to get the whole rig up on jack stands pretty high if you can as it makes it all much easier. I had to get to the wires and fuel line connections on top of the tank to loosen them before it would come down. Unpleasant for sure, but do-able.   Be sure to drain it before you start in on this if possible as a heavy tank is harder to deal with.

unfortunately i cant drop the tank where it is.i live in apartment complex that does not allow work on it and nowhere to park it but on the public street its on.ive already dropped the tank once to seal it as it failed emissions and seen the layout of it.thats why we replaced the wires so we didnt have to drop again.if i move next month.no way to tow to new home to far away.only choice is to cut hole to access it it this time or sale it.im not ready to sell just yet.i would love to drop it.does make things easier to get to.

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Yeah a hole in the floor works then go to a boat yard and buy a hatch cover to put over the hole.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

just an update.i finally got around to looking at the rv yesterday.after a few trial and errors i could finally hear the pump once i opened up the floor.i could hear the pump running and fuel splashing..as i thought.the fuel line came off.i looked into it further and found the hose clamps were not tight after getting the hoses wet and the pressure blew them off.went and got new ones.replaced and now rv is up and running again.new issue is ac is intermittent and when ac compressor engages.can hear what sounds like grinding so i think it might be time for a new compressor..will look into it further when i move.. thank you everyone :D

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4 hours ago, prodrumernate said:

when ac compressor engages.can hear what sounds like grinding

Make sure it isn't just the clutch.  I had to replace my AC compressor clutch once and it was sure a lot easier than replacing a compressor...

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8 minutes ago, AtlantaCamper said:

Make sure it isn't just the clutch.  I had to replace my AC compressor clutch once and it was sure a lot easier than replacing a compressor...

to be honest i didnt even think of that and would be better to replace..it does engage and then stops at times, then engages again.so that does make since a bad clutch is the problem. thank you :)

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4 hours ago, prodrumernate said:

it does engage and then stops at times

When it does manage to engage, does the AC blow cold air?  If that is the case, then it's a good idea to change the clutch first.  I'd suggest changing the AC idler bearing/pulley at the same time.   I had to go back in and change that pulley a few months after i changed the clutch so I wish I had done both at once.  The only hard part is sourcing the correct clutch and pulley as your system is probably not OEM and was put in aftermarket by the RV maker - I think that is how most of ours are done.

Oh, and I'm glad to hear you tracked down your fuel issue.  Good deal that it wasn't the pump itself.

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13 hours ago, AtlantaCamper said:

When it does manage to engage, does the AC blow cold air?  If that is the case, then it's a good idea to change the clutch first.  I'd suggest changing the AC idler bearing/pulley at the same time.   I had to go back in and change that pulley a few months after i changed the clutch so I wish I had done both at once.  The only hard part is sourcing the correct clutch and pulley as your system is probably not OEM and was put in aftermarket by the RV maker - I think that is how most of ours are done.

Oh, and I'm glad to hear you tracked down your fuel issue.  Good deal that it wasn't the pump itself.

yes its cold but then it seems to get hot when disengages..its intermittent on the cooling.even at times turning on and it doesnt cool for a minute or so.i do hear slight grinding when its engaged only.ill also double check when i get back out to it and run it.the vompressor seems tp be at the bottom of the engine block its self on passenger side 9 believe below he power steering pump.it looks factory to me but im not sure how to tell the difference.it just runs the cockpit ac so i cant cool the cabin with it.

 

im also glad i got it fixed.simple little hose clamps.the repair i did on it before was due to failing emissions because or a pressure leak.rrplaced fuel pump gasket and screws it passed and a few weeks later of driving it it stopped running and no fuel pressure.3 dollars for parts and a few hours of tearing up floor and slightly dropping tank fixed it...hopefully permanently.once at new house ill work on it more.

everyone said to sell it here now they are saying fix it up not realizing its an easy fix.for 1000 dollars with 50,000 miles i think its a great deal.needs a luttle fixing up but is still usable even now.oh and alternator and a few other th8ngs have been replaced on it that previous owner did.he didnt make a profit off of it because he spent about that much in repairs.brakes etc.

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13 hours ago, AtlantaCamper said:

When it does manage to engage, does the AC blow cold air?  If that is the case, then it's a good idea to change the clutch first.  I'd suggest changing the AC idler bearing/pulley at the same time.   I had to go back in and change that pulley a few months after i changed the clutch so I wish I had done both at once.  The only hard part is sourcing the correct clutch and pulley as your system is probably not OEM and was put in aftermarket by the RV maker - I think that is how most of ours are done.

Oh, and I'm glad to hear you tracked down your fuel issue.  Good deal that it wasn't the pump itself.

oh..is it easy to replace them and any videos on this?

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8 hours ago, prodrumernate said:

any videos on this

I can't remember the process any more.  I did it when the head was off and half the engine was apart so my experience isn't super relevant.  Can't be that bad though.  If I were doing it I'd probably take the radiator out so I didn't damage it.  It always amazes me how quickly the radiator comes out.  

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