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Hunter.


Hunter.

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I’m totally new to this. Does anyone know if the 1985 Toyota Dolphin, comes with an inverter, if so, the location? I just purchase one, and all the 12v. lights, pump, etc. work off the battery, but the outlets do not. When plugged in at home with AC 110 power supply, everything works.  Any ideas?  Also, where can I get a copy of specs?  Thanks, Hunter

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The 110 AC outlets only work when plugged into shore power. The roof A/C is the same. No, you can not run the roof A/C from with an inverter. Lack of battery capacity is the reason.

You can add an inverter. The better inverters have a transfer switch built in so its an automatic change over.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xantrex-Freedom-HFS-2000-Inverter-Charger-Pure-Sine-Wave-2000W-55-Amp-12V/202682096421?epid=28030649367&hash=item2f30cb5b25:g:vw0AAOSwK65bvMmt

 

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Thanks for the information. I would like to run a small watt microwave in short bursts, tv., small fan, charge devices off the battery or batteries. Would like to use solar to charge battery. Thinking of a 2000w inverter, what do you think. 

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Hows it going.

I use a 100 watt solar panel and it keeps minimal useage topped off on 2 12volt batteries. I use a small 750 watt inverter from walmart for 39. It runs my 4 cup mr coffee pot that is 600 watt as it only runs for a about 2 minutes.

Start with one panel and assess your usage. Walmart offers 1000 watt inverter for 89. 

If you use a small microwave and short times using it a 700 watt micro wave shouldnt need much.

What i like on 750watt inverter it was cheap and has digital read out for battery volts and shows the volts as power draws. You can keep a eye on your batteries that way.

Also walmart has deep cycle 105 amp hour 12 volt batteries for like 89 to 99.

With 2 yr warranty.

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Hi, I'm doing much better, with input like this, Thanks.

are you plugging the appliances straight into the inverter, or is the inverter inline from the batteries, through the elect. panel, to the outlets?

I'm certainly going to look into the Walmart suggestions. Does the inverter have a built in breaker?

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6 minutes ago, Hunter. said:

Hi, I'm doing much better, with input like this, Thanks.

are you plugging the appliances straight into the inverter, or is the inverter inline from the batteries, through the elect. panel, to the outlets?

I'm certainly going to look into the Walmart suggestions. Does the inverter have a built in breaker?

Using the inverter to power the outlets may be counterproductive the converter is wired to the electrical 120 volt panel so plugged into the converter will try to charge the battery all the while the inverter is taking power from it. There is a work around but it is complicated.

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Using the inverter to power the outlets may be counterproductive the converter is wired to the electrical 120 volt panel so plugged into the converter will try to charge the battery all the while the inverter is taking power from it. There is a work around but it is complicated.

The converter isn't charging > Pretty old. Is the converter also what detects shore power, and switches off the battery? If not, I think I will disconnect the converter to the battery. This should eliminate the cycle, correct?  I would like to install a smart charger, direct from the engine generator. If this is all possible, how hard would it be to install the inverter through the panel? Perhaps I could use the wiring from the old converter, if the wire gauge is correct? Basically swapping them out in line. What do you think? Also, do I need a specific pure sine wave to do this, along with the ability to solar charge?

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The Xantrex link I posted is an inverter/charger is one box. It is available in 1000w or 1800w. depending on model number it has a 20, 40, 55 amp 3 stage charger builtin. It also comes in mod sine or pure sine. It also has a built-in transfer switch.

A much simple install than buying a new smart charger and an inverter.

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Be aware that most inverters are modified sine wave and some A.C. Devices won't work, like my wife's curling iron. Pure sine are more expensive but produce a true power profile. 

You can create an automatic charger disconnect by using a relay that is activated only when A.C. power is present or opposite, disconnects when inverter power is present. 

 

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On 6/13/2019 at 10:40 PM, Hunter. said:

WME

Thanks for the Xantrex link. Will look into this further.  Thanks.

Go to the Xantrex site and research what you want for watts and the sine function. You want to look at the Freedom series Inverter/Charger. The HF is mod sine and the HFS is pure sine. Then use the P/N to shop online.

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On 6/13/2019 at 10:47 AM, Hunter. said:

Using the inverter to power the outlets may be counterproductive the converter is wired to the electrical 120 volt panel so plugged into the converter will try to charge the battery all the while the inverter is taking power from it. There is a work around but it is complicated.

The converter isn't charging > Pretty old. Is the converter also what detects shore power, and switches off the battery? If not, I think I will disconnect the converter to the battery. This should eliminate the cycle, correct?  I would like to install a smart charger, direct from the engine generator. If this is all possible, how hard would it be to install the inverter through the panel? Perhaps I could use the wiring from the old converter, if the wire gauge is correct? Basically swapping them out in line. What do you think? Also, do I need a specific pure sine wave to do this, along with the ability to solar charge?

Ok yes once you are plugged in the converter/ charger does two things it powers the lights etc. and charges the battery at a pretty slow rate it is weighted towards the lights etc. Now in a proper (and normal) setup the alternator charges the coach battery also through a device known as an isolator there are two different types but for simplicity they both accomplish the same thing that system has nothing to do with the converter it comes on with the truck key. Now an inverter is all together different it has nothing to do with battery charging and ever thing to do with battery draw down its purpose is to make household power TV's blenders etc anything you can plug in drawing power from the battery. Solar power has a good deal of advantages because it is self supporting you have two choices charge the truck or charge the coach battery. It can be as simple as battery clamps connected to your battery of choice it will need some type of controller but the wiring is simple. Integrating into the existing system is as  simple as directly connecting to the battery it does not have to go through any thing to work. Standard RV wiring is either a #8 or #6 wire as a main feed both are sufficient for all purposes of power supply or battery charging. Again a inverter is not a battery charging system a converter is, replacing the old converter is definitely a step into the modern world they are light years better than the old converters.

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Thanks for the detailed 101. It does help me understand, what's what and where and when. I'm liking the solar more and more. Any ideas what models, etc. I know little about solar and RVs. I am on a budget, and the RV is mostly for 2-4 day outings with no hookups. 2 people. Modest power consumption. Fixed to the roof would be nice, but is it particle to get enough sunlight, or portable to move with the sun? 

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Fixed roof solar panel for me. I hooked two old panels I had kicking around to 3 batteries I got from a buddy which were used to back up oil pipeline monitoring station they replace them every 4 years but they are like new. Had lots power all winter long in AZ running furnace etc. Get cheap controller on Amazon and you are all set.

Portable ones seem like a chore. Go cheap and don't listen to people on the internet. they are fools!

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Reducing load is just as important as increasing battery size. Replacing all the lights with LED bulbs will reduce battery draw by10-15 amps, so its like going from a 24 gp battery to a 27 gp battery with out the weight.

A 100w panel and a 100AH battery will give you enough power for days of moderate usage. If you use more than moderate power your battery will still make 2-3 days but it will be charged to like to 90% of starting charge each day. So after 3-4 days your battery is down to 70% or so. Not a problem cause your done camping and the battery will fully charge on the way home. Any driving during camping time will also boost the battery.

200w and 200ah will approach perpetual motion. Even running a TV with a DVD and the wife's CPAP machine all night, in my case.

Mounting the panel flat on the roof makes everything simple, but does reduce the total power some. You also can't park in the shade

IMHO start change the lights to LED and go with a 100w basic solar system and use what battery you have.  If its not enough then add a bigger battery, still lacking add another 100w panel and a another battery. Get a 20 amp controller with the first panel so you can add another 100w panel without having to upgrade the controller.

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