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I'm a new owner of a Toyota Dolphin and it didn't come with a generator. The opening of the compartment is only about 26". What brand and model of generator was the option for that particular RV?

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8 hours ago, Sergio said:

I'm a new owner of a Toyota Dolphin and it didn't come with a generator. The opening of the compartment is only about 26". What brand and model of generator was the option for that particular RV?

Most likely the Onan Microlite 2800. 

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On a lot of Toys with small generator doors, the unit was installed from the bottom. The door was just to check vitals. Maybe an oil change. For major work, you dropped the generator out.

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Not all were set up to be 'Generator Ready'. Does the enclosure have a vented door? Or is it just designed for storage?

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The compartment was for a optional gen set. An RV generator is quite different than any other they exhaust heat and exhaust smoke out the bottom.

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The vented door on my generator box is where the gen gets it's fresh air supply. 

Linda S

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Yep and pushes everything out  the bottom that you don't want in your camper!

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On 5/21/2019 at 3:20 AM, fred heath said:

Most likely the Onan Microlite 2800. 

Hey can you tell me the if that would be compatible with my 87 Seabreeze? It has the original ONAN but it's a 2.5 watt. Could my rig handle the 2.8?

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The older 2.5K Onan was pretty big the new ones are LP fuelled. So if your question is will a gasoline  2.8 fit yes. The power output is not an issue you are will within the operating range of the electrical system.

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I'm looking to add generator- likely small Honda or Yamaha.  Also looking to ditch the Dometic fridge for basic apartment fridge, then cut the LPG tank out and add batteries and solar.  I only plan to make beach runs and small 3 day camp trips.  

 This a bad idea?  

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2 hours ago, ModocMade said:

I'm looking to add generator- likely small Honda or Yamaha.  Also looking to ditch the Dometic fridge for basic apartment fridge, then cut the LPG tank out and add batteries and solar.  I only plan to make beach runs and small 3 day camp trips.  

 This a bad idea?  

It will become a "bad" choice when you try to sell it. As far as what you do with it, your plan would work.

Without propane how would you cook?

What is the generator for? With 4 batteries and 300w+ of solar you could run your refer for a long time, like perpetual motion. Add some insulation to the out side. Better yet spend the bucks and get a 12v marine chest refer

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5 hours ago, ModocMade said:

I'm looking to add generator- likely small Honda or Yamaha.  Also looking to ditch the Dometic fridge for basic apartment fridge, then cut the LPG tank out and add batteries and solar.  I only plan to make beach runs and small 3 day camp trips.  

 This a bad idea?  

It is if you want your furnace to work.

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Propane is the most efficient power source in our little motorhomes. If you do need heat an electric one is not going to cut it. Most places you can't run a generator at night. I always think of worst case scenarios. Stuck on a remote road and my furnace and propane fridge might save my life. Living is a good thing

Linda S

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Thanks all,

This is too much reason to keep LPG.  Ill have to look into how to make it work.  Later I'll add the 300watts of solar and marine batteries to run fridge. 

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20 hours ago, ModocMade said:

looking to ditch the Dometic fridge for basic apartment fridge

Just curious, is your existing Dometic fridge broken or still working correctly?  I was wondering why you want to do the fridge swap.

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8 hours ago, ModocMade said:

Thanks all,

This is too much reason to keep LPG.  Ill have to look into how to make it work.  Later I'll add the 300watts of solar and marine batteries to run fridge. 

Keep the propane fridge it is more efficient. A dorm fridge  will use 100-250 watts per hour there is around 1/2 a million btu's in a 20 pound tank 1 btu=.3 watts you can see where this is leading. Dorm fridges are much more efficient stand alone not inside of a cabinet so where to put it? I'll put it this way if mine quit tomorrow I would spend the bucks to repair or replace it before I would put in a dorm fridge. The one in my present camper is 29 years old so $27 a year and counting (ever year it gets a little cheaper) think a dorm fridge will last 10 years? Doubtful.

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2 hours ago, AtlantaCamper said:

Just curious, is your existing Dometic fridge broken or still working correctly?  I was wondering why you want to do the fridge swap.

To be clear, I've not figured out how to test the fridge.  I've been working on restoring RV.  The only test I did was plug 30ad into my home and run the A/C.  I haven't researched how to turn fridge on and what the indicators are.  I opened it and looked inside.  It shows/says, that is auto-switching.  

My thought was it probably does not work, it probably is not as efficient on electricity  and it might need all kinds of LPG updates-lines, connectors, gauges, valves, pressure check etc. etc.  

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1 hour ago, Maineah said:

Keep the propane fridge it is more efficient. A dorm fridge  will use 100-250 watts per hour there is around 1/2 a million btu's in a 20 pound tank 1 btu=.3 watts you can see where this is leading. Dorm fridges are much more efficient stand alone not inside of a cabinet so where to put it? I'll put it this way if mine quit tomorrow I would spend the bucks to repair or replace it before I would put in a dorm fridge. The one in my present camper is 29 years old so $27 a year and counting (ever year it gets a little cheaper) think a dorm fridge will last 10 years? Doubtful.

I'll keep it.  Sounds like I'm way off on its efficiency/longevity cost.  

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27 minutes ago, ModocMade said:

I'll keep it.  Sounds like I'm way off on its efficiency/longevity cost.  

Yeah if it works don't mess with it. I replaced the propane regulator on mine last year it too was 30+ years old and and an old single stage regulator I don't know around $30. Don't give up on the solar that is a big +  I run two group 24 batteries and a simple homemade frame portable 100 watt panel I can turn and elevate it it stores flat on the bed in transit I so far have been able to run all my 12 volt stuff indefinitely. If you have any thing that looks like a clear light bulb throw it away and replace with LED's 

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I just pulled my Onan 3k Genset out. there is a hole on the bottom inside the cubby to vent out the hot air and to allow the exhaust pipe to come down and out the bottom. it weighs close to 200lbs. for that reason I wont be putting mine back in. I've been told its worth roughly 300 because its the onan.

 

Maineah is right about solar don't give up. it took my some time to get it right but now that I got it I love it. I can run everything all night long and come noon the next day I'm fully charged. its nice.

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I'll  start replace the lines and regulator and give it a GO.  I'll do solar, for sure.  I'm anxious to run solar,But wait till I've spent shit-ton on so many things needed:

LPG, linoleum floor, reupholster couches and bed, weather seal the roof, resealing windows, install air bags & shocks,  swap lap belts for seatbelts with 3-4points in RV area, change clear-light bulbs to LED, seal shower, put in bluetooth stereo, strip the wall-sticker and paint walls. 

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On 5/20/2019 at 4:59 PM, Sergio said:

I'm a new owner of a Toyota Dolphin and it didn't come with a generator. The opening of the compartment is only about 26". What brand and model of generator was the option for that particular RV?

It depends.  Almost any generator will work, if it is small enough...  However, it may not be able to produce enough power to satisfy your rv's needs.  So start by determining what kind of power you need, list these appliances and circuits and amperage.  Add that up and start with that.  Let me know when that is finished.

 

Boots

 

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On 8/19/2019 at 8:37 AM, Maineah said:

Yeah if it works don't mess with it. I replaced the propane regulator on mine last year it too was 30+ years old and and an old single stage regulator I don't know around $30. Don't give up on the solar that is a big +  I run two group 24 batteries and a simple homemade frame portable 100 watt panel I can turn and elevate it it stores flat on the bed in transit I so far have been able to run all my 12 volt stuff indefinitely. If you have any thing that looks like a clear light bulb throw it away and replace with LED's 

I tested the fridge with electricity and it WORKS!!!  Whats my next step to testing the LPG?  Fill the tank or replace lines/gauges/valves, then fill tank?

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2 hours ago, ModocMade said:

Whats my next step to testing the LPG?

I've still got the original LPG tank, regulator, lines, connectors, etc.  I know that one day I'll have to replace/restore it all but for now it's all still working so I keep it as is.  My suggestion would be to first find out if you actually have leaks or other critical issues.  Do you know for sure that your LPG system needs to be replaced or has leaks?  Maybe it works fine now even though it's old and ugly?  I'd suggest testing your system and finding out what the actual status is if you haven't already done that.  I found that my system was good to go with the exception of the main tank valve.  Looks nasty in spots, but no leaks.  On the main valve it is sealed when fully open or fully closed, but in between it will leak.  I just keep it full open or full closed as a result but I did a careful leak test and i didn't find any reason to replace the valve right now.

I installed a new LPG/CO2 sniffer sensor to feel a bit more confident that I could detect a leak if I had one.  I went around with a soap solution after a LPG fill and looked for any leaks too.  I didn't find any - even at the main valve when it was 'full open'.  So for now I feel ok about using the original LPG system but I'll keep a close eye on it and do a restoration as needed when the time comes.  It would be a good bit of work to replace all of that as I have a fridge, stove, oven and furnace that run on LPG.  I'm open to any comments on this strategy if I'm off-track for any reason.

I'm very pleased for you that your fridge works on electricity.  Hopefully you will get it going on LPG too!

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I don't know for sure if leaks or replacement.  I'd like to test.  If I fill tank then switch fridge to lpg, is there indicators letting you know it's working?  I didn't know if my fridge was working till 12 hours later of having it plugged in.  

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With it running on electricity, open the back cover and feel the heater tube. It should be warmish hot. Its a tall vertical tube. Switch to LPG there should a small flame at the bottom. The tube should still be hottish after several hours.

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8 hours ago, ModocMade said:

If I fill tank then switch fridge to lpg, is there indicators letting you know it's working?

Take a look at this thread below.  There are instructions on how to light the fridge and how to see if it's working via the indicator:

Before you try and turn on the LPG burner for the fridge, open up the back and take the metal cover off the burner section.  Take a look and make sure that there are no objects obstructing the burner.  Securing the cover in place is important because if it's not on there correctly the flame can get blown out while driving.

8 hours ago, ModocMade said:

I didn't know if my fridge was working till 12 hours later of having it plugged in. 

Yea, it takes a while for it to get cold.  Once you get it working there are tips in the thread linked above about how to get the best performance out of the fridge.

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I'm having trouble with your link above.  I'll sort it out on a computer later.  I filled my tank and this regulator(I think it's a regulator) is leaking from the gash in it.  

Capture+_2019-10-12-15-54-46.png

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Very old single stage regulator you needed a new one any way. It is not Toyota specific any RV place should have one.

Edited by Maineah

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https://propanewarehouse.com/

Try this company. They carry just about everything. Very reasonable pricing. The only place I go to now.

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