87.Rader Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Hello, I am new to this forum.. but I own a 1987 Toyota Sunrader and after my last trip in the mountains I am feeling kick back when I press the brakes. It seems to be coming from the passenger rear brakes. I am planning on just completely replacing all the rear shoes but I am not sure of all the parts I am going to need. I don't want to start the project and then have to wait on parts I wasn't expecting to replace. I was hoping to find someone who has already done this before and remembers what they bought. I don't want to ask for to much but does anyone have a parts list or recommendations as to where I can find the parts. I believe I found the shoes on amazon but also don''t want to order the wrong ones. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.Rader Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Ttt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaCamper Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 I also had a trip to the mountains that made me address the brakes. I understand your goal of trying to get all of the parts before you dive in but it's difficult to give a complete parts list because it really depends on where your issues are. I look at the brakes as a complete system. It doesn't do a lot of good to focus on only changing brake pads if there other issues as well. My goal was a fully functional brake system and I have that now, but it took several steps for me to get there. The initial fixes were not getting me the brakes I needed so I kept chasing down the issues until they were gone. Now I'm really happy with my braking ability. But it took some time to get there. I started with the obvious things (front and rear pads) but quickly learned that while my front calipers were good my rear pistons were bad. Once I was into that I noticed that one of the flex hoses to the rear axle was in bad shape, etc. So while you may simply need to put new pads in the rear, do an adjustment and be back to 100% (that's where I'd start), that may not be enough. If you can, take a look at your proportioning valve and deal with it in some way. My approach was to tie it up in the highest position so it is "always full on" to the back brakes. I can tell this is a good balance because if I'm going down a steep hill with a lot of brakes the temperature of both front and back are about the same. In my first mountain trip I had very hot (burning) fronts and very little braking happening in the rear. In the end I also had to replace my master cylinder because it had a by-pass leak issue and while I was at it I decided to put in a larger dual diaphragm booster. It took some getting used to because I have WAY more brake pedal power than I need now, but after a year of driving like this I really like it. It takes a light foot to use the brakes but if I ever do really step on it hard that rig will stop right quick. All six wheels will lock up on gravel for me now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 What he said, your toy has a brake SYSTEM. 1. Your brake system is for an empty 3000 pickup. 2. Air bags screw up the rear bias valve. 3. New brakes and adjust the rear valve is the answer. A lot of the bias valves are rusted up. With a little work they can be removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 7 minutes ago, WME said: 1. Your brake system is for an empty 3000 pickup. Not exactly. GVWR is 6000lb. GCWR is 8500lb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 The curb weight of a 1987Toyota pickup is 3140 lbs and that is what the brake system is designed to work with (+cargo weight). A 6000lb MH badly distorts things. That is why you need to deal with the brakes as a system and change the OEM set up to deal with 6000lb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 I don't get it. An 87 cab and chassis with reverse wheels in the front doesn't have the same brakes as a regular pickup front or back. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 I agree with Linda, If it is a true 1 ton chassis then all the brake parts are different from a 1/2 ton. This is not just a pull the drum off job. It is always best to have the drums turned or replaced. Having to bleed the brakes is always a pain but replacing the slave cylinders and flushing the system is highly advised. New shoes will compress those cylinders pushing the seals back into the housing that could have wear or corrosion issues. Seen it many times, new shoes and a cylinder starts leaking. Inspect all the parts for wear and replace if needed. Replace the axle seals and maybe the hub axle bearings. Look at the bearing races for bad signs like discoloration or itty bitty pits etc. At least clean and re-grease the bearings. I believe there is a gasket on the axle retainer plate. Find a good auto parts store that has parts listings for 1 ton chassis. Make sure the counter person understands you want 1 TON FLOATING AXLE PARTS. As others mentioned the proportioning valve is another story. Here is an article about doing the rear brakes, could be helpful. http://daysofexploration.blogspot.com/2013/04/third.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 15 minutes ago, Gulfstream Greg said: Make sure the counter person understands you want 1 TON FLOATING AXLE PARTS. Dual Rear Wheel (DRW) parts, not to be be confused with the 1-Ton Single Rear Wheel (SRW) parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 At one time I owned a 3/4 ton toyota pickup. Can't remember the year, maybe 82. Was 22r carb engine. Had a 3/4 ton decal on the bed rear quarter panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odyssey 4x4 Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 1 hour ago, Gulfstream Greg said: I agree with Linda, If it is a true 1 ton chassis then all the brake parts are different from a 1/2 ton. This is not just a pull the drum off job. It is always best to have the drums turned or replaced. Having to bleed the brakes is always a pain but replacing the slave cylinders and flushing the system is highly advised. New shoes will compress those cylinders pushing the seals back into the housing that could have wear or corrosion issues. Seen it many times, new shoes and a cylinder starts leaking. Inspect all the parts for wear and replace if needed. Replace the axle seals and maybe the hub axle bearings. Look at the bearing races for bad signs like discoloration or itty bitty pits etc. At least clean and re-grease the bearings. I believe there is a gasket on the axle retainer plate. Find a good auto parts store that has parts listings for 1 ton chassis. Make sure the counter person understands you want 1 TON FLOATING AXLE PARTS. As others mentioned the proportioning valve is another story. Here is an article about doing the rear brakes, could be helpful. http://daysofexploration.blogspot.com/2013/04/third.html Hey that’s my write up you linked! Awesome, it feels long ago that I did that brake job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 On 2/13/2019 at 12:12 PM, Odyssey 4x4 said: Hey that’s my write up you linked! Awesome, it feels long ago that I did that brake job! Great write up! I learned my lesson about not replacing those shoe retainer pins on a 1961 International 4x4 Scout. I was out in the middle of no-where when one of those pins wore through on a rear axle. Could not move without it locking up. Luckily found a large nail, stuck it in there, bent it over on the outside and secured it with a couple zip ties to the E-Brake cable. It got me home! Now if I see any wear it gets replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odyssey 4x4 Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 On 2/15/2019 at 1:45 PM, Gulfstream Greg said: Great write up! I learned my lesson about not replacing those shoe retainer pins on a 1961 International 4x4 Scout. I was out in the middle of no-where when one of those pins wore through on a rear axle. Could not move without it locking up. Luckily found a large nail, stuck it in there, bent it over on the outside and secured it with a couple zip ties to the E-Brake cable. It got me home! Now if I see any wear it gets replaced. Agreed on the retainer pin. All of the drum brake parts are so cheap to replace it makes sense to just do them all when it's apart. I just hate replacing parts with anything made of Chineseum! I almost feel like a worn out OEM part is still stronger than some of the Chinese stuff out there these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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