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Max speed 45. For a few miles. Then it gets unhappy


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First trip. Did ok in 30 miles of stop and go. Hit 55 for 10 min and started sputtering and coughing some backfire. Pulled over shut down a few min and good for another few miles.   3 miles at a time for 100 miles.   Long day. 

Any ideas?   No over heating. Fuel filter looks ok. Not great. Its new.    

 Thanks.  At least we got stuck at a nice camp.  Bahia honda in the keys.  

Thanks. Happy hollidays

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Ideas from easy to OMG your kidding

1 Plugged gas cap vent. Loosen it and see what happens, if this fixes it buy a proper new cap.

2. Did you fill the tank just before you started the trip?? Maybe a load of BAD/watered gas. Try a couple of bottles of HEET.

3 Bad fuel pump, you need a pressure gauge to check the pump. Maybe a loner tool from the local auto parts. Easy replace.

4 Cr*p in the fuel tank. The faster you drive the stronger the fuel sucks. It sucks the stuff against the fuel sock and blocks the flow. You stop suction stops and the cr*p floats away, start the engine and soon it blocks the fuel intake again... FIX drop the tank and remove the sender and flush the stuff out.🤬

 

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1. Its a new cap. Does not mean its build for an old truck

2. Yes . from a very busy station.

3. Should i hear it prime when i turn the key?  Last truck , datsun 720. That was the first sound i looked for when turning the key to on.

4.  This was my thought. Also the one thing i didnt want to deal with.  

Luckily there is an old vw bus in the campground. They always have any tool i need. 

Thanks

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You should have a mechanical fuel pump. Its mounted on the carb side of the engine in the front.  No prime sound.

Good luck

Edited by WME
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Checked the post after looking for a pump.  This is not a datsun.   Thanks. Was going to keep looking for the pump.   Hopfully somthing is open tomorrow. Flush tank. 

     Think im running rich. But to cause this would be smelly rich. 

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Toyota 1980 20r should have the pump on the engine. Earlier PUs had an electric fuel pump in the tank. What year is your chassis?
Here is DIY fuel pump change video. ..  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBZtwwr1BjY  

Edited by WME
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Fuel pump in hand. A local napa had one. In an old dusty box. English and Japanese stamped on it.  That took 24 hours to get it 20 miles to the napa i could get to.  And found a mechanic that was excited to see a 20r. " try back this time tomorrow, mabey i can take a look"    ill do pump in the am. But dont think dumping my tank in the Everglades is the best idea. 

Thanks for the video link.  

 Or look for us on the news when we block 100 miles of 1 lane road leaving the keys at 45 mph. 

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Hope it all works out. Might be a good idea if you do use that mechanic to ask him if he can flush the tank. Not sure about your year but many years the tank came with a drain plug so not that hard to do. In a shop you aren't polluting anything

Linda S

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54 minutes ago, linda s said:

. Not sure about your year but many years the tank came with a drain plug so not that hard to do.

Linda S

 

X2. Drain the first drippings into a qt mason jar. Let the fuel settle and see if there is a garbage line in the jar.  If things are clear then your last gas purchase is OK.  Got a line? bad gas, then its drain, drain until things are clear...Heet may help here.

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Looks like the new pump was able to get a clug of debris out of the line that the old one could not. Looks like rust. No luck with mechanic so im sure it will happen again.   Hopefully i can find a hand pump or somthing to manually free up the line.   Do they make a plastic tank for this 1980 20r?  

   Thanks for all the help.  Back on the road again. For now.

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URGENT.. The fuel filter should be between the gas tank and the fuel pump. That way it protects the fuel pump. If this is the way yours is,  the only way you could get a clug of rusty stuff out, is if the stuff was in the old pump or a gas line full of it. Hopefully, more of the same didn't get into the carb.

If your filter is between the pump and carb CHANGE IT or add another filter in the proper place.

Edited by WME
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No one makes any aftermarket tanks for a 1980 Toyota pickup. Your only option is the remove it and flush it and send it to one of those places that recoats your old tank. You really need to take care of this gunk problem immediately. Explains why the 45mph max

Linda S

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Just going to buy a bunch of filters. And keep changing them. Magnet on the tank makes me feel better. Might help. Not ready to go home yet.  120 miles no blockage. Wont idle any more but thats carb. 

   New max speed is not much better. 55 60 if i push it.  No hesitation. Just no power.  Is this the truck? Or is the carb way out.   Around 8mpg. Mostly from one bridge. I could watch the needle go down.  That was pushing 3rd gear. Cruising 45 uses little gas. .   ill never get up to the blueridge or Colorado with this power.  

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What do your spark plugs look like??? Black and sooty or clean tan?

I'm not sure of carb vintages, but many of the Asian carbs have an Auxiliary Acceleration Pump and they are notorious for the diaphragm rupturing. When it does fuel will just dribble into the carb when the engine is running. Bad power and bad MPG.

Heres a look at things  https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/81-pre-88-toyota-pickup-hilux/223698-hesitation-spuddering-issues.html

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Deep socket added to list. And 8 feet of vacuum tube.  Leak on distributor vacuum advance.  Could also cause the same symptoms.  According to google. 

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Remember if you remove the spark plugs, you MUST use anti-seize when you reinstall them. Check the AAP first its a simple screwdriver thing.

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