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Adding A/C or repair engine A/C


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My A/C has not been working, I had it looked at and was told I have a leaking hose and it needs to be recharged and it would be about $400.00. I guess my questions is would it be money well spent to just add the A/C to the RV roof (it is pre-wired already) and could the roof A/C be run while driving? Or does the roof mounted A/C only work when plugged into a land line. I have seen a few systems on the net for around $400.00, but then I need to figure out how to install the thing. I wonder if I have to remove the ceiling paneling to install the A/C or does it mount over the wood paneling. I have an outlet box in one of the storage cupboards in the ceiling and it is marked "A/C prewire" so I need to do some investigating. Is there a thread where someone has done this and posted pictures?

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You need shore power 115vac to run a roof A/C, or a generator.

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I have recharged my own - you can get fittings to make it a 134 system for about $10. THen you can dump 134 cans in it (about $7 each).

ALso can add dye that shows up on a black light.

A professional might suggest purging the system to change to 134 but from my experience it is not neccessary. If the system has been opened moisture can get in & it should be evacuted (vaccuumed) with a pump. After a few hours you can stop the pumP & if a vacuum gauge is attached then you will see if it holds a vacuum - if it does not you have a leak which will require repair.

IF you have a bad hose, you will also want to change your dryer, then evacuate again.

I would definetly fix it --- the roof top idea is not good - you could run your generator but that will burn about 1/2 gallon of gas and it would wear it.

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Chances are that you may have the old freon cfc-22. You can tell by the fill fitting. If it was converted to the new 134A it will have a quick disconnect fill fitting. Despite what the dealers may tell you the old freon is available and is not expensive. It can be ordered from Mexico. It's just an excuse to gouge you.

The new freon pumps have a higher compression as the new 134A type isn't quite as efficient. Don't let that scare you off. I was warned by a dealer that the new would not work as well. I bought a conversion kit and did my own. It worked just fine. I don't know if the Toyota system has a drier in line which would need to be replaced. You also should definitely add AC oil or get the 134A with the oil already in it.

What can happen if there's moisture in the system is that the pump can wear and self destruct. I would shop around and find a repair place that is more reasonable and reliable. Wanting $400 for replacing a hose and recharging sounds like a hold up artist.

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Hey Futar,

I reside in florida (I can live in florida on ONE condition, AIR condition <G>)

I think you meant to say R12 for the original AC type.

Also I would not be so quick to condemn $400 -- I have had to pay over $150 for a dodge hose (10 years ago), so if it is a dealer item..

Add in a new dryer (it definetly has one. another $40) and a few hours labor & do not forget the R12...

Anyway -- I would get it fixed - I would probably do it myself but i have access to the tools at a friend's shop.

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Thanks for the good info, I was told the hose they ordered would not work because it needs to be custom made for the RV. I could imagine a scenario where they (Sunrader) added the coach battery and rerouted the A/C hose, but I would think someone would carry the hose and it would not have to be custom made. Anyone have any thoughts on this or how to find one, it is a 1987 22re FI Sunrader.

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While we're discussing the AC system, about how much of a mileage hit will a 22RE take? The previous owner removed the compressor hose and I haven't been running with AC, just open the vent windows.

I suffer about a 2 mpg hit. I also installed 2 oscillating automotive fans on the wall behind the cockpit to help move the cooler air from the truck back into the cabin since my wife spends almost all of our travel time back there.

Allen

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would expect 2-4 mpg on the mileage hit, of course part of that is due to high ambient temperatures which make internal combustion engines less efficient anyway.

also expect to turn off the compressor when in high load situations (merging traffic - hills) -- this will reduce the load on the engine. Then wait a minute before turning the A/C back on (to allow equalizationin the A/C system).

Did it for year in an 86 Isuzu troope rwith a diesel engine.

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