Mister Blu Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Driving towards Amarillo today in 90 degree heat. Say the temp gauge move up above halfway mark for the first time ever. This also seems to be accompanied with crunchy little rattle noise(not really a rattle). I am aware of the timing chain issues on these. Engine only has 43700 on it. Hoping it is not that. The noise is somewhat intermittent, and only seems to have appeared over the past twenty miles. When it down shifts, it seems to dissipate. This sound seems like I think may be more of crunchy gurgling. Not so much of a gurgle though. No apparent leaks. When stopped and in Park, when I give it some throttle, the noise is not there. Had a tough time last year with the donut exhaust gaskets. Could it be this? Does not really sound like that though. need to be in Oregon soon. Should be concerned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 Can hear that noise begin as I approach forty mph or so... before it switches gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 Okay, so it is a 100 degrees. That is likely the issue with the temp being above the halfway mark. Concerning the noise... it seems to be most predominate in overdrive.... i.e. Above 60 when overdrive kicks in. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Try with O/D off and see if the problem goes away. In the past, have you been in the habit of using O/D? Just looking for things that might have changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Recheck ALL recent work done to your Toy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheProfessor Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Hey there. I have an 86 New World and just had a similar experience that did end in eventual overheating. On my rig it was the harmonic balancer pulley assembly. The pulley that runs the alternator and water pump is press fit on the harmonic balancer and only adhered with some type of thin rubber interface. The rubber degraded allowing the pulley to at first come out of alignment slightly, causing it to make noise as the pulley bumped against a bolt on the front of the engine. In the last hundred miles or so before the pulley freed itself I also noticed the engine temp creeping up more than I had noticed in the past. You might want to take a look and be sure everything looks straight down there. easy fix but tough part to find in Mandan, North Dakota on a Saturday. Hopefully it was just the weather for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Okay all. Potentially an unfortunate sutuation... maybe real bad (relatively speaking). After my last post on this topic, I stopped for fuel, checked coolant levels and the later wa a mere three quarters inch low. Topped off with about a cup of water. Drove on down the road. Within the next fifty miles, I passed a Walmart in Childress, Texas. Almost immediately I noticed the temp gauge shoot up past higher white line and touch the red. The next exit was less than a mile down the road, so I turn around hoping to make it back to the Walmart. As I turned around, cooloant began steaming out of the hood. I not wNting to stop on the side of the road and be stranded re in hundred degree heat, I turned on the hazards and drove on the shoulder about fifteen miles per hour back to the Walmart about a mile away. As coolant came through window and got in my right eye, I went in the store and was was able to flush my eyes with their eye flushing machine... thanks to a considerate employee. Afterwards, I went back out to see if their was something obvious causing the leak like a blown hose or something. The only thing that I saw on the cursory search was the cap and tube came off and out of the coolant reservoir tank. This appears to have been the exit point for the coolant. At the advise of a mobile tech, I refilled the radiator with fresh coolant and checked if there was anoe rleak elsewhere. No apparent leaks coming from anywhere else. In idle, engine did not want to remain start. Shimmied and shook a little. Rough running. Engine was certainly sounding a bit different. Mechanic that I was talking in phone with suggested I look at a few things, including smelling the Christ to see if it smells of coolant. That is when I noticed white smoke coming from exhaust. It also had an unusual pulse to it. The dipstick looked okay, no froth. Engine does not want to stay started. Have a mechanic set to look at it tomorrow at his shop. Suggestions? At the moment, I seem to be at the mercy of small town mechanics. On the road, and three thousand miles from home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleShack Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 I'm no help to you, but keeping you in my thoughts and prayers. This is my biggest fear. Good luck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Thanks Little Shack. Prayers are appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Looks like I need a new engine. What costs/options am I looking at? Anyone have any informati N that may help. Time I see of the essence. Please help... with a preemptive thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Looking into remanufactured engine. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 See if you can find a good used engine. That would be the cheapest way to go especially if it can be sourced local to where you are. Different manufacturers have different definitions of “rebuilt”. Most likely you only need the long block assembly. Your mechanic can transfer all other pieces from your existing engine. Still won’t be cheap, but better than waiting for rebuilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 Has añyone ever got a crate engine from LKQ Corp? What ought I expect to pay for a remanufactured long block? Thoughts on Springing for this upgraded performance engine? http://www.high-performance-engines.com/toyota-22rec-performance-engine-p/813p.htm Or should I stay with stock specs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 On 7/23/2018 at 2:52 PM, fred heath said: See if you can find a good used engine. That would be the cheapest way to go especially if it can be sourced local to where you are. Different manufacturers have different definitions of “rebuilt”. Most likely you only need the long block assembly. Your mechanic can transfer all other pieces from your existing engine. Still won’t be cheap, but better than waiting for rebuilt. What should i expect to pay for a qualit remanufactured engine? What should i watch out for? What ought i be wary of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Dolphino Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 did the mechanic say what happened? Sounds like a cracked head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Dolphino Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 where is the RV located? I'm at a computer and I have a knack for finding things. I'm totally down to try and help. for this is my worst fear, and I would appreciate any help I could get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Dolphino Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 closest to Childress, TX I could find a rebuilt 22re (assuming your 86 has the 22re) in Dallas/Fort Worth for 1200.00 https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ptd/d/22r-22re-toyota-pickup/6644566512.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 ATK engines, Grand Prairie TX.. They maybe part of LKQ. Jasper Engines, Jasper IN These are a couple of the larger rebuilders. Jasper can do semi custom engines, I don't know delivery time for special engines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 The engine I have procured is from LKQ, and is out of Grand Prairie. Pretty pricey though. Wonder if I paid too much. Tough to chew. Although, they do seem to carry a pretty decent warranty; Three year unlimited mileage (parts and labor) that pays up to $100/hr in labor. Mechanic did not yet reveal to me the underlying problem. Not sure. Hope to find out exactly what happened though. What can I expect to pay for the install? Anything I ought to know going forward? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted July 26, 2018 Author Share Posted July 26, 2018 Side question that may no longer be pertinant... What are the chances that the long block did not have to go? How does one tell if the engine was down for, or if only the head gasket needed to be changed, or the head replaced at most? Is this engine swap premature? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Dolphino Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Considering your connecting rod didn't go through the block or out the oil pan, I'd say so. What kind of diagnostics did the mechanic do? I was surprised to hear new engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Typically a 22r will warp the head if severely overheated, the average small town machine shop answer is to plane/mill the head to make it straight, this is NOT the correct procedure. Again a small town shop will take 7-10 days (+shop back log) to machine/rebuild a short block. The warranty (if any) is in that town period. The engine your getting has a nation wide warranty. Your basically stuck with the lesser of many evils, good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 sounds like you are jumping to conclusions - before buying a new engine, find out what is wrong with the one you have. There are a number of things that can go wrong and most of them can be remedied WITHOUT buying an entire new engine. NOTE: there are many so called "mechanics" who are really "Parts Changers" - they have NO diagnostic skills. A REAL MECHANIC can determine what EXACTLY is wrong and then offer alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cossacks Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Hi there I would pull each plug out check it for color and do a compression check. That will give you an idea of what's really wrong. The colour of plugs will show you which cylinder has leaked coolant in it. Compression test will let you know if valves are working. Put a little oil in cylinder and it will let you know if the rings are broken. Scary stuff been there myself. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 On 7/26/2018 at 12:51 AM, 86Dolphino said: Considering your connecting rod didn't go through the block or out the oil pan, I'd say so. What kind of diagnostics did the mechanic do? I was surprised to hear new engine. You must weigh the cost/benefit ratio. If you over heated the engine there’s a good chance the head got warped. You now have to decide if you want to pay this local mechanic $85-100 an hour to eventually tell you the engine is toast, or attempt a repair only to have the thing go bad on your way home. A used engine usually comes with most accessories already installed. You would only need to transfer what the replacement is missing. A rebuilt engine is usually just the long block, unless it’s a “crate” engine which is usually “plug&play”. One member here had a similar situation and ended up renting a U Haul van with a car dolly. (Just don’t tell u haul what you’re doing ?). I’m not sure what the mileage charge would be but you could do the math. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Blu Posted December 23, 2018 Author Share Posted December 23, 2018 Replaced engine as well as many peripheral parts and engine accessories. Did not realize an e.g.r. is nearly $200. Made it back to Oregon three weeks after breakdown. Total cost... shy of 4K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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