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Continuous duty solenoid install, replacing isolator


AbleThought

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1 hour ago, WME said:

Solenoid NO, means its a solenoid idolator, "normally open". simply put it means that when there is no trigger voltage the solenoid is open and isolating the batteries from each other. When the engine is running the 12 volts to the small terminal triggers the solenoid, it becomes closed connecting the batteries and the alternator charges BOTH batteries

ahh i see. what do you think of lindas solenoid setup? alternator on top lug?

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Well I can no longer find my factory installation manual. Probably never made it back into my file when I did the replacement about 5y ears ago. Never had reason to look for it since. If you've got yours working and charging correctly then go with it. When I get the chance I will try to follow the wires in mine and document them

Linda S

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1 minute ago, linda s said:

Well I can no longer find my factory installation manual. Probably never made it back into my file when I did the replacement about 5y ears ago. Never had reason to look for it since. If you've got yours working and charging correctly then go with it. When I get the chance I will try to follow the wires in mine and document them

Linda S

okey thanks for the help as always. did you buy a couple fenders off some kids from portland by chance? i met them in phoenix and the forum came up. they mentions they sold there fenders to linda from the forum. small world.

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44 minutes ago, AbleThought said:

yes to my setup? 

or yes to new breakers between alt / solenoid and start battery / solenoid?

i got it running now. voltage looks good. both batterys charging and wipers run just fine. just curious about adding the new breakers. 

Your start battery has a thermal link in the line. No need for a breaker. I have no cb between alternator and isolater. CB on load side of isolater going to coach battery. 

One thing I did do was add a voltmeter to the coach side of the isolater so I have a “heads-up” if it ever stopped working. 

Edited by fred heath
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36 minutes ago, AbleThought said:

okey thanks for the help as always. did you buy a couple fenders off some kids from portland by chance? i met them in phoenix and the forum came up. they mentions they sold there fenders to linda from the forum. small world.

Yes I did. I just hate to see things that might be of use get thrown away. I just know the minute I do it will suddenly become exactly what I need.

Linda S

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Depend on what you want to protect. If the alt. has a catastrophic failure (unlikely) then the wire from the battery to the alt will burn up. From the isolator to the battery I would say yes main reason it is something that is not original. From the isolator to the coach yes definitely again not stock and a long run to really be on the safe side another one at the coach battery going back to the isolator they are cheap and cause no issues.

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16 hours ago, linda s said:

Yes I did. I just hate to see things that might be of use get thrown away. I just know the minute I do it will suddenly become exactly what I need.

Linda S

so true. i cracked my passangerside one. 

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17 hours ago, fred heath said:

Your start battery has a thermal link in the line. No need for a breaker. I have no cb between alternator and isolater. CB on load side of isolater going to coach battery. 

One thing I did do was add a voltmeter to the coach side of the isolater so I have a “heads-up” if it ever stopped working. 

thats really smart i may do the same

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21 hours ago, fred heath said:

One thing I did do was add a voltmeter to the coach side of the isolater so I have a “heads-up” if it ever stopped working. 

Now days everybody needs a USB charging port, so here is a 2fer..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltmeter-USB-Charger-Outlet-Socket-Panel-for-DC-12V-24V-Car-Motorcycle-Marine/173363106331?hash=item285d3f121b:g:dOkAAOSwAuNW35~X.

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