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Freon for 87 A/C


Iflyfish

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I have an '87 Toyota Sunrader. A/C low on Freon. Anyone recharged their A/C at home? What product, where did you get it. 

Thanks,

Iflyfishchillingwithmytoyofriends

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To bad you don't fish Yellowstone? Ive got 40 lbs of R12 stashed. Unfortunately all my stuff is R134. Try Ebay for NOS R12 and the proper hose kit.

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Here we go again....Roof air or dash air???

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Sorry! Roof air works great! It's the A/C in the truck that is not as cold as I would like it. 

Fly-fishing Yellowstone! Whoa! Now that sounds like a great road trip!

Thanks,

Iflyfishtheyellowstoneinmydreams!

 

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47 minutes ago, WME said:

Fly-fishing Yellowstone! Outstanding. Ditto advice on A/C refill. You consistently provide great input and ideas and I appreciate that.

Iflyfishingratitudeformytoyofriends

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R-134 and R 12 don't mix. The OPs system was cooling a little so it has some R12. To convert to r134 correctly you change hoses, flush the system, add correct R134 oil, vacuum and recharge. On a working R12 system its just easier to buy a couple cans of NOS R12

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19 hours ago, WME said:

R-134 and R 12 don't mix. The OPs system was cooling a little so it has some R12. To convert to r134 correctly you change hoses, flush the system, add correct R134 oil, vacuum and recharge. On a working R12 system its just easier to buy a couple cans of NOS R12

I have a friend who has been turning wrenches for 40 years - he recommended decades ago that I do what I suggested. I have done it on 4 or 5 vehicles with good results.   Yah, it would be better to do the full text book conversion,  but I stand by my "use r134" suggestion.

I think many older r12 systems may have lots of non r12 in them anyway.  Of course if one has r12, go ahead and use it.  

 

To each their own

 

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1 hour ago, DanAatTheCape said:

I have a friend who has been turning wrenches for 40 years - he recommended decades ago that I do what I suggested. I have done it on 4 or 5 vehicles with good results.   Yah, it would be better to do the full text book conversion,  but I stand by my "use r134" suggestion.

I think many older r12 systems may have lots of non r12 in them anyway.  Of course if one has r12, go ahead and use it.  

 

To each their own

 

Thanks Dan.  Mine uses r12 and think I will see if I can find someone to add to it. It runs cool, just not cold enough. I was quoted over $1,000 to replace the entire system. I occupy the cheap seats. 

Iflyfishfromthecheepseats

 

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First Find the leak, look for refrigeration oil on fittings and connections  or spray formula 409 on all, it will bubble up hopefully it will be a mechanical connection that you can tighten up. Then recharge with R12. The thing to know about converting an R12 system to 134A is that the system was designed for R12 when converted to R134A  it will not work as efficiently.

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1 hour ago, Iflyfish said:

Thanks Dan.  Mine uses r12 and think I will see if I can find someone to add to it. It runs cool, just not cold enough. I was quoted over $1,000 to replace the entire system. I occupy the cheap seats. 

Iflyfishfromthecheepseats

 

I am cheap skate too!   And proud of it --  R134 is all about cheap.  I can do some work on my own though.  If you have to pay someone, it will cost you.

 

BTW, things other then low freon can cause poor performance.   The expansion valve clogging is one.  Even a clogged condensor can be an issue. I bought a single gauge years ago - with 2 fittings r134 high & r134 low side.  I can tell a lot by the pressures.  The gauge came with a chart to help interpret the data.  Kits with fittings that screw on to the r12 ports converting to r134 are quite inexpensive.  The adapters can easily be removed too.  Something like this:  https://www.ebay.com/i/302724112549?chn=ps 

 

this is what I have https://www.ebay.com/i/183193229885?chn=ps

 

I am about to change my compressor - the clutch bearing seized and trashed the end of the compressor.   Turns out that a nearby Oreilly's has a loaner vacumum pump (necessary to evacuate the system and check for leaks) and the gauge manifold set (dual gauges). bought a compressor /overhaul kit from rockauto for $170

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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In my experience expansion valves will fail because the power head ( the round part on top that has a small line coming out the center of it ) quits working usually because it has lost it's refrigerant charge. For those that don't know there is a sensing bulb that is attached to the output line of the evaporator that is connected to the top of the expansion valve (TXV) as the evaporator gets hot or cold the refrigerant in the bulb expands or contracts acting on a bellows that opens or closes the valve regulating the flow of refrigerant into the evaporator. If you have clogs or crud in the system then you will need to flush the system with a solvent usually R-11 witch can be done with a recovery machine.

If you don't already have a gage manifold you can pick up a decent set at horrible fright or auto zone.

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Also before pulling a vacuum it is a good idea to put a charge of nitrogen in the system . 200 psi should be enough if you have a leak you might be able to hear it ,but soap bubbles will bubble good. The nitrogen also helps remove any non consumables from the system before vacuuming it out. Pulling a vacuum and watching the gage might tell you that you have a leak finding it however can be hard hence the nitrogen, but if you don't have nitrogen and only a vacuum  pump how do you find the leak?

An old refrigeration trick is to take a small brush ( flux brush works well ) brush some shellac on the connections it gets pulled into the leak and dry's instantly sealing the leak. Do not leave it like this, now that you know ware it is fix it.

They make leak stop that you can use but ware I come from real refrigeration technician's find and fix the leaks we don't put or rely on foreign substances that can course problems down the road. And this includes that glow in the dark crap.

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Thank you! I appreciate the help! 

Iflyfishchillingout

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