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Well, my AC clutch bearing seized,  the bearing race chewed up the ac compressor housing.    Mine has a 6" pulley.   Ordered one from Rockauto , it has a 5.5" pulley, so it will be going back  

 

Does anyone have any good part numbers for the AC Compressor? .  I am guessing the cab & chassis is different from the regular toyota pickup.

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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1 hour ago, DanAatTheCape said:

 I am guessing the cab & chassis is different from the regular toyota pickup.

Well, the best info I've got (the C&C Builders Manual) indicates that the C&Cs were delivered by Toyota without A/C. So I'm pretty sure it's standard truck components.

:)

1990 Specs AC.jpg

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the service manual I have has an ac section.  It looks like std toyota for that era.    

That C&C manual looks like it might be interesting.

Is it hardcopy or digital?   could you post the front cover?

I'm guessing the rv makers added the AC if the chassis came over without it.

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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that is what I ordered, however my compressor has a 6" pulley, not 5.5".  

88410-35190 is the toyota part number for the 6" pulley which is discontinued.

 

I am wondering if the 5.5 will work and if so, how much shorted does my fan belt need to be,

 

did you by chance compare clutches?

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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Hmmmm, it has been a couple years so I don't recall.   I wonder, are you taking out a R12 compressor and replacing it with one designed for R134a.  Is that going to make a difference?

I will try to check mine in the AM and see what size it is, that is if it is not pouring.  

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I think there is only one type of compressor - you do put different oil in the system ,.,,,     R134=Pag 46,            R12=Ester

BY my calculations, the 5.5" pulley would require a fan belt about 1" shorter.  Mine has a 36" belt on it now.  Does anyone know what size they are running?

I think we are talking about 1/12 loss of rpm which should reduce cooling a bit.  Maybe they put the 6" on with the idea that the camper would be harder to cool then the pickup truck?

 

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The AC pulley is tough to measure,   but it is a lot closer to 5 1/2" than 6.  So I would be ordering the 5 1/2.   My belt goes around the AC comp and over the idler pulley and then the crankshaft pulley.  

The belt I have on there is a NAPA  premium XL 25-9355

A am anal about checking things and do not believe I would have missed replacing a 6" pulley with a 5 1/2.   Mine was covered in oil and dirt and I suspect it was the OE, not an aftermarket. 

Edited by jjrbus
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Well I just realized that the smaller pulley on the compressor will result in higher AC rpm = more output.    Duh!

I have  a 36" belt on it now, thinking a 35' will be what is needed .  Maybe a 36" will work - maineh uses a 25-9355 which lists as  just under 36"

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1 hour ago, DanAatTheCape said:

Well I just realized that the smaller pulley on the compressor will result in higher AC rpm = more output.    Duh!

I have  a 36" belt on it now, thinking a 35' will be what is needed .  Maybe a 36" will work - maineh uses a 25-9355 which lists as  just under 36"

I can't put my finger on it,  but I believe 134A runs at higher pressures than r12, so might need the added rpm's? 

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as for the higher rpm, I think the compressors were installed before r134 entered the picture.  I have read about the higher pressure fir 134 too - also that cooling fans are more critical

 

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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It is all way above my pay grade and a bit of a crap shoot.  Also difficult to get professional input.  Mine works on 134a with the 5 1/2 inch pulley, but I have replaced every part in the AC system.  Even then I had a freezing issue and had to move the thermister, now it is working well. 

This is one of the few places on the net where you may get some input.   

http://autoacforum.com/viewforum.php?f=3&sid=6c2cdd774578969670ee6d16c955236c

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Well The job is "complete"  -- unless I get frisky and decide to drop the cooling unit and change the expansion valve.  It should be done, but I am not up to it right now.  I used the rockauto.com compressor & dryer.    My original compressor had a 6" diameter pulley which is discontinued. Plenty of 5.5 pulley clutches which make the compressor turns a little faster which in my theory makes more cold air.    Anyway I went to a slightly smaller ac belt (from 36" to 35.25). 

Added 2 cans of r134. The compressor came with pag46 oil so I got a can of that and wet down the orings for the compressor & dryer.

Turns out that a newer Oreilly's in Titusville FL has a loaner vacuum pump (to evacuate the system) and the manifold gauges (so you can see high and low pressures at the same time and makes it easy to add freon).

 

Very warm around here today (East Central FL) -- was able to see 50 degree output. I pulled a curtain down over the back of the cab and as it kept recirculating air it seemed to be  slowly getting colder.

 

To get compressor out: 1) remove battery; 2) remove air intake assembly; 3) remove fan and shroud(requires upper radiator hose has to be disconnected),, also rock guard under radiator; 4) removed belts;  5) removed power steering pump - did not disconnect fluid lines, includes triangler looking bracket; 6) removed compressor - mounting bracket & compressor come out as unit.

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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52 minutes ago, jjrbus said:

No need to remove the evaporator, waste of time :  )  

evaporator 2.jpg

I was concerned that I might see something like that.....      The toy service manual clearly states NOT to use water to clean the cooling unit - use compressed air.   

 

Any comments on why water is a no-no?

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No idea,  I gave up trying to clean and replaced it.  Too much crud in it.  The one part in my system I did not replace was the pressure switch,  I had to take the system apart a 2nd time and replace the pressure switch as it leaked! 

 

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well I put in the new expansion valve - evaporator was not very dirty - got a can of ac coil cleaner from Home depot - took a 3 or 4 cycles but it looked pretty good when I put it back together.

It was putting out 40 degrees with the cab curtain down -yah!

Evacuated the system yesterday for an hour.  Left the gauges hooked up overnight -stayed within 5 psi.  Evacuated for another 1 hour this morning, waited 30 minutes then added 2 cans of R134.

 

BTW,  the rockauto parts "GPD" brand have "Korea" tags on them.... Seem to work fine.

 

BIG SHOUT OUT for Oreilly's Auto Parts Titusville/Cheney Highway for having a "loaner tool" vacuum pump and manifold gauge set.

 

 

Edited by DanAatTheCape
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drove her around today - no curtain,  pulled below 40 for a while then settled at 40.. When stopped in traffic it would creep up a bit.  After about 50 miles, part highway part in town I think it might last - sure hope so. 

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11 hours ago, DanAatTheCape said:

drove her around today - no curtain,  pulled below 40 for a while then settled at 40.. When stopped in traffic it would creep up a bit.  After about 50 miles, part highway part in town I think it might last - sure hope so. 

I don't remember the numbers on my conversion but it was over 40.   The AC pros told me to leave it alone and not try to add any refrigerant.

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This is a little late but when we bought our 89 v6 it had a aftermarket AC system installed but the compressor was missing. I found all this out the hard way after buying a Toyota compressor and finding out it would not bolt up to the bracket or existing hoses. So I visited some junk yards and made it a Toyota AC system. Except that I got the mounting bracket out of a 4-runner. And so my compressor did not line up with the pulleys. Turns out the 4-runner compressor is bigger because the inside of a 4-runner is bigger, needs more cooling capacity. Took my compressor back and got the 4-runner one. Cooled really well! Another note, I believe the 4 cyl trucks shut down the AC when the engine is below a certain idle. No idea if the V6 systems do the same shut down at low idle.

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