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I'm wondering if the 1978 Sunrader 17 ft version with the rear door and full rear opening hatch ( I think this was the first model of Sunrader? ) On the Toyota Truck Chassis. It has a 5 lug front and rear. Any idea if these are in need of full floating rears? And possible to even convert to them?

 

Thanks

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2 hours ago, 85Raderguy said:

I'm wondering if the 1978 Sunrader 17 ft version with the rear door and full rear opening hatch ( I think this was the first model of Sunrader? ) On the Toyota Truck Chassis. It has a 5 lug front and rear. Any idea if these are in need of full floating rears? And possible to even convert to them?

 

Thanks

Yes to both questions. Read the section on axle facts. Happy to answer any questions you may have afterwards.

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Thanks for the info. So, to get this conversion done what all am I going to need to source other than just the axle itself. and 4 wheels? I see there are different ratios of 1 ton axles available. What ratio would I need? What else is needed? What kind of labor costs would I be looking at? Thanks for all the guidance here.

Edited by 85Raderguy
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You have 40 years of “foolie “ weight on your rear axle shafts. Switching to wide singles may help a little, but you’re still applying stress to the axle shafts. 

If you have the “GO82” rear differential, you can no longer get these shafts unless you have them custom manufactured. If a shaft breaks while driving it can allow your rear tire to detach from the axle (not a good thing).

Conversion to a heavy duty ff single tire axle can be done but your looking at 3-4 K for the switch. 

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So Fred, if I can find replacement axle shafts from a junkyard, etc. You are advising replacing these and moving to single wide rear wheels as a feasible option? Just unsure the best course of action here.. I don't want the shaft to break while I"m driving. The rig currently has 111k miles on it, it's survived thus far with this setup, but I'm skeptical to keep pushing it if it's at risk of breaking. Obviously spending 4k to correct this situation is not the preferred route... 

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On 5/24/2018 at 4:28 AM, 85Raderguy said:

And is conversion to the Toyota 6 lug 1 ton dually a possibility? 

Yes, the 1-Ton FF axle can be swapped in. Cost will vary widely. Depends on how lucky you are buying the axle/wheels, etc (I've seen them from $300 -> $1000+) and what you pay for the installation.

 

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Drive shaft on 78 and older are not a straight bolt up to the full floater. Adapter plate or driveshaft work would be needed on top of the welding for shock mounts and spring perches. I think it would be cheaper to have new high strength axle shafts made. If I was you I would have your existing axle serviced and get new bearings. I've seen damage caused by the fake duallys and any good mechanic will see it too if it's there. Go from there. Sometimes you don't know the best course of action until you start.

Linda S

 

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5 hours ago, 85Raderguy said:

So Fred, if I can find replacement axle shafts from a junkyard, etc. You are advising replacing these and moving to single wide rear wheels as a feasible option? Just unsure the best course of action here.. I don't want the shaft to break while I"m driving. The rig currently has 111k miles on it, it's survived thus far with this setup, but I'm skeptical to keep pushing it if it's at risk of breaking. Obviously spending 4k to correct this situation is not the preferred route... 

The problem with a junkyard axle (if you can find one) probably came off of another Toyota motor home or U-haul box truck. You’re still taking the same chance as far as metal fatigue on the shafts themselves. A simple visual inspection of your current axle shafts might not show the micro cracks that could exist. To remove the shafts involves destroying the existing bearings and seals. New ones will be needed. 

Custom axle shafts would be the way to go. Last time I priced them they run about $700-800 per pair. You must send one of your axle shafts to the fabricators for exact reproduction. On the GO82 axle both left and right shafts are interchangeable so no need to send both. I believe a member here (Misha T) may of had this service performed when he broke an axle shaft not too long ago. Linda S can probably retrieve this information. If you can find his supplier they most likely will have the dimensions on file which will save you having to pull your existing shafts. 

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1 hour ago, linda s said:

No Fred, his 78 has a regular truck axle. Shafts from any Toyota truck with the same axle would fit.

Linda S

 

That’s good. You can order axle shafts through places like JC Whitney. They will state left side and right side as the shafts are unequal on the 7.5” 1/2 axle. Should be about $75 each side. 

This is the first time I’ve seen foolies mounted on the 1/2 ton axle. Most of the c&c’s had the GO82 setup. 

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OK I was searching Amayama and I did find that 2 different axles were used in late 78. They have axle shafts available for both. around 250 each plus shipping so almost the same as having some built. Maybe more since they are heavy and would have to be shipped from Japan. I would need a vin to narrow it down.

JP-carparts though showed only 1 axle for both the complete trucks and the cab and chassis.

Linda S

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That’s great Linda. Definitely want to keep that information available. No such animal when I was looking. 

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Okay thanks you guys are so awesome for helping me out with this. So I have another question. Assuming I can get replacement axle shafts on there and redo bearings / seals etc. I will remove the foolie setup and replace it with 1 wheel.  My trucks VIN is: RN28131614. It's noted as a 78 model year on the title, but perhaps is a late 77 model pickup? I can't seem to figure it out from this VIN.

Will this single tire setup look a bit strange not being as wide of a stance as the "foolies" ? Thoughts?

I'm assuming I would need to order wider wheels and tires to go on as singles in the rear? Or what to do about rear wheel situation once the foolies are off and axles shafts replaced?

 

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Well now the site doesn't want a vin number. Only a frame number will do. Don't know where to find that on an older truck. It does look like an RN2 is from earlier than 8/78 and I don't see any axles for any of those. Sorry. I did find a couple of complete rear ends with very low mileage and one in Canada was a single rear wheel so it wouldn't have had the stress of the duallies. Not all that close though. These are camper axles so they should be the right one

Year
Part
Model
Description Miles Part
Grade
Stock# US
Price
Dealer Info Dist
mile
1978
Rear Axle Assembly
Toyota Truck
CAMPER,SRW,PULL COVER 26,503
--km--
42,678
A 17G004 $Call Oliver Recycling & Salvage LTD. Can-BC(Oliver) Request_Quote 250-498-3188 / 1-866-832-5160 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
294
1978
Rear Axle Assembly
Toyota Truck
(4.11 ratio), camper; OFF RUNNING AND DRIVING VEHICLE-70K 70,000 A MOBILEHOME $350 Smartparts Auto & Truck Dismantling USA-CA(Fontana) Request_Quote 909-429-4604/626-456-4583/626-498-3932 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif

834

 

 

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The frame # is on a metal plate attached under the hood usually on the drivers side inner fender. It gives the frame #, engine, transmission, rear axle and factory paint code. I’ve attached a photo of what it looks like. 

2FCA88D8-E8AE-412D-9446-9B2328269191.jpeg

CFF0D02F-D987-453F-AC79-CD401645ED67.jpeg

Edited by fred heath
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9 hours ago, linda s said:

Well it can't find your truck either Fred.

Linda S

Bad data base. Toyota dealer found my truck. 

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3 hours ago, 85Raderguy said:

Would this work? https://www.carid.com/1977-toyota-pick-up-performance-driveline-axles/g2-axle-gear-axle-shaft-585734016.html

 

Also, switching from fooly to single would effectively shorten the wheelbase, wouldn't it? Would this be an issue?

First off......Check you ID plate under the hood for axle type. It should show “GO82” (see my example above). If it does you have the 3/4 ton 8” rear differential. These axle shafts are different than the 1/2 ton 7.5” differential. The 8” axle shafts are interchangeable left and right (both same length). The 1/2 ton shafts are different lengths and identified as left or right......driver or passenger side. The 1/2 ton shafts will not work in the 3/4 ton axle. 

If your Id plate shows a different axle other than GO82 it might be the 1/2 ton. You would have to check with a Toyota dealer. 

Going to singles will reduce your rear track. 

Edited by fred heath
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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:

I think if you look at your plate, it's actually G082 and not GO82.

Looks the same to me.  The font is all the same size.  Picky........Picky. 

E6323511-64CB-465B-8237-6E4901C8C434.jpeg

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No, the '0' in '20R' is the same as the '0' in 'G082'.

Unfortunately, in this computer age, the difference between GO82 and G082 will make a difference between success and failure if doing a database/parts search. :)

'G' indicates an 8" diff. A 7.5" diff is an 'F'.  The '08' is the ratio (4.11:1). The '2' is a 2-pinion (vs 4 pinion). YOOD!

AFAIK, 'G' has nothing to do with it being a 1/2, 3/4 or 1-Ton axle. They all can use an 8" diff (other than earlier years).

Source: http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/toyota-differential-identification-18588.html

https://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/TECHGEARJANUARY.html

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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:

No, the '0' in '20R' is the same as the '0' in 'G082'.

Unfortunately, in this computer age, the difference between GO82 and G082 will make a difference between success and failure if doing a database/parts search. :)

'G' indicates an 8" diff. A 7.5" diff is an 'F'.  The '08' is the ratio (4.11:1). The '2' is a 2-pinion (vs 4 pinion). YOOD!

AFAIK, 'G' has nothing to do with it being a 1/2, 3/4 or 1-Ton axle. They all can use an 8" diff (other than earlier years).

Source: http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/toyota-differential-identification-18588.html

https://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/TECHGEARJANUARY.html

Derek,

You need to find something more constructive to do with your time. The number on the id plate is the ONLY number the Toyota dealers computer uses to locate parts. You really need to put some “boots on the ground” and wean yourself away from that computer keypad. 

Any information I post in this forum is based on first hand knowledge in the hopes it will save other members from doing redundant searches. Anyone can read my posts and accept the facts as stated, or go out and perform their own research. I personally don’t really care one way or the other.  

Edited by fred heath
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36 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

I assume you mean the VIN. :)

 

No Derek, we’re discussing the 1978 Toyota motorhome. Since the 17 digit VIN didn’t become mandatory until 1981 it’s pretty certain there’s no VIN involved in this conversation. So....... If you need axle information on a 1978 Toyota , you must submit to Toyota parts department the ID that Toyota has assigned to that particular part (pre 1981). This information is obtained from the mfg. ID plate under the hood. In my case I had the GO82 axle assembly. From this # Toyota can reference every part of this assembly including description and individual part numbers. 

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And if you ever want to verify your vehicle belongs to you the frame # is also stamped on the left front frame rail by the lower control arm. 

EA341BAC-17FF-4A30-AFF4-9C2402061F2B.jpeg

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Yup i'm a G082 as well. So, it seems like a conclusive answer here is I can replace my axle shafts with non-abused ones that were from the same era of Toyhome but weren't setup with foolies. Load these up with SRWs in the back and I should be good to go? Any rec's as to maybe doing a wider tire and wheel in the rear to maintain a wider tracking? Or is that not necessary? Thanks for the ongoing help with.

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1 hour ago, 85Raderguy said:

Yup i'm a G082 as well. So, it seems like a conclusive answer here is I can replace my axle shafts with non-abused ones that were from the same era of Toyhome but weren't setup with foolies. Load these up with SRWs in the back and I should be good to go? Any rec's as to maybe doing a wider tire and wheel in the rear to maintain a wider tracking? Or is that not necessary? Thanks for the ongoing help with.

Big thing with singles is the weight of your mh over the rear axle. As long as your under 4K lbs.(est) single D rated tires should carry the weight. Wider track will add stability but with wide singles you’re  back to extra stress on those shafts. 

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