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Mounting solar panels on Dolphin - found the right stuff!


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Never mind all that below - did not know they make Galvanized channel for conduit - seems perfect for solar panels . . .

I will post back when I get the panels mounted.

 

 

 

We are in the middle of our re-roofing job, and I want to make a plan for attaching solar panels to our 1986 Dolphin.

 

Discovered the major roof area is only two layers of 1/4 inch or so plywood with insulation sandwiched in between. Not gonna screw the solar panels to that!

We have removed the two heavy steel L channels that were screwed down at the outside edges and used to support an air conditioner.  So I'm thinking that mounting concept should also work for solar panels.

The pipe in the picture below is Intermediate conduit - heavier duty than EMT, but not as heavy as galvanized plumbing pipe.

I think the flange attachment idea would work pretty well, but kinda hard to get the length measurements correct.

 

Or I could just use some pressure treated lumber and a attach the pipe with two conduit straps at each end?   (the strap in the picture is not the correct size . . .)

I'm even wondering if the lighter duty EMT might be just fine - the panels only weigh 26 pounds each.

 

Thanks for any thoughts . . .

Sam

 

 

 

 

 

IMT-with-flange-web.jpg

T-strap-channel-connect.jpg

superstrut-conduit-channel.jpg

Edited by samsterid
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Hi,

I am about to re-roof and prepare for solar panels.  So this is a timely piece of information.  I am removing my entire roof and will fabricate a number of curved roof struts  (trusses) that will do a number of things for me) and so I will share on this site how I went about this.

This is a major over haul on a 1990 Toyota Warrior, but I am sure this can be done on all most any rig.

First a comment on your proposed approach.  Lay any material on the flat (as you have done) will structurally be less rigid (think of 2x4 laying flat and then standing on them) and so I would suggest standing these metal struts on edge, for substantial increase in strength and support. I am using either rectangular aluminum tubing (no rusting) and/or a sandwich of two 1`/2 inch plywood with a flat stock of aluminum 1/4 inch plate.  I will cut this out with a template which at the peak will be approximately 4 inches thick.

Next, is that you are placing this over an existing ("old") roof and by the look of it, it is already sagging.  Aside from the obvious rain water collecting in the center of the roof line, it says to me that the roof support (?) has nearly failed and that warrants a more robust solution.

As the roof continues to sag, the seals around the vents, exhaust fans etc will also fail, allowing more and more rain water to seep inside.  Something you do not want to deal with.

I will be raising my roof and sloping it from the front to the back (in addition to arching from side to side) this will give me an additional  interior head room and allow for all the wiring and cabling for the solar panels inside and down to the batteries.

Glad to see you taking this on, because you will  save a ton of money, and have a lot of fun doing this.  Good luck.

 

Brian

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for your thoughts Brian.

 

On the other hand, maybe some flexing of the channel supports while driving over bumps would be good?  I think I will do a test mount then a test drive before I "nail it down".

 

The roof does look pretty "saggy" from the top, but there are no signs of my Ceiling sagging from the inside of the camper. And even though the roof has leaked and left some water stains on the ceiling, I saw no signs of dry-rot or even mildew when I examined the first layer of plywood just under the top layer of aluminum.

Actually, once the roof is ever walked on, I don't see how it could be anything other than saggy. (See my recent post Roof vent offset strips/shims necessary? - which I didn't explain very well)

Plus I will be coating with the Liquid Roof EPDM, which the manufacturer claims "can take standing water 365 days a year . . ."

 

Fabricating trusses is  beyond my skill set - would love to see how you do that!

 

Sam

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I plan to remedy that in a big way.  I am removing the metal roof and all that is attached, and install a custom designed truss system to raise the roof up approximately 3 inches above the existing roof line (remember that means it will increase the clearance height by that amount) and I plan on making the trusses out of 3/4 marine plywood sandwiching a 3/8 inch aluminum plate.  Skinning the roof will be the next part, and I will try out 3/16 Honduran plywood, two overlapping sections.  I am considering laying a "Peel and Stick" roof membrane on top of that and then something fabric like EDPM.   To counter the weight gain, I plan on leaving the A/C off the roof and adding something like a Fantastic Fan to provide circulation.

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Pretty ambitious plan there Brian - hope you post as you go along.

 

Meanwhile, I have switched to 1-5/8 inch aluminum Struts to support the panels - stronger and lighter than my second choice above.

But I am wondering if there is much difference in the two approaches below?

Panel-supports-web.jpg

 

Mock up:

 

Struts=and-Panel.jpg

Edited by samsterid
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Hi fellow solar panellers, 

Before you drill any/more holes in the roof, please check out www.solar-power.com.  There is a mounting system shown which I will be using that requires no holes drilled in roof. The 3M tape I have been using for years and agree it will not be coming off when applied correctly. So many other great ideas and information also. Let me know what you think. I'll also post pics as I move along.

 

Edited by SSBreeze
wrong info
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Sorry for the incorrect web address there. It should be www.mobile-solarpower.com   That will get you to the great info I was referring to.

 

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@SSBreeze

Some good mounting options there, but no matter how good the 3M VHB tape, the underlying aluminum on our Dolphin is only 1/32" thick, just floating there, not attached to the plywood.

It might work, but I think I'll stick to screws on the edge - no problem for me caulking around the screw heads.

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Yes Samsterid, 

The strength/thickness of any roof would determine if the adhesive method would be a good choice.  Hoping yours turns out great!

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