AFCI/GFCI vs. GFCI for RV Use—Thoughts?

[WenSun]

Newbie here. Starting a full remodel on an ‘84 Sunrader 21’ and want to add some more outlets for convenience in the overhead cab area and back dining area. I moved the kitchen outlet from the front of the cabinet (for a more streamlined look) to under the cabinets in a waterproof box and am using a pop-up outlet on top of the counter to keep things neat and dry.  I would post pics but keep getting errors...

From there, I have run a 12/2 continuous line to either side of the overcab area and want to use speedbox receptacles there since there is little room.  I am weighing the merits of AFCI/GFCI use in the kitchen cabinet box as well as the outlet above the refrigerator on the opposite side—I’m unfamiliar with RV wiring/load and have some concerns. I assume also they must be 15A as opposed to 20A. Has anyone used AFCI/GFCIs  in their RV projects and have they been too sensitive?  I hear they tend to trip a lot.  Also, any trouble with adding on outlets on the runs in the Sunrader. Thoughts?  Thanks!

 

Edited April 21, 2018 by WenSun
Tried to upload pics

[Maineah]

If you replaced the wire with a #12 it will handle 20 amps. I question the use of a #12 in the speed box I frankly don't know if they are rated for a #12 size wire or 20 amps. Why not run two 15 amp circuits your box will handle 4 breakers. The arc faults can be a pain with nuisance tripping and I don't see any gain in an RV. Don't know if you have priced them it can be sticker shock. As far as the runs it all depends on how much effort you want to put into A to B. Your load center is a subpanel the grounds and neutrals can not be landed on the same  buss bar.

[WenSun]

Maineah—

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the AFCIs do cause sticker shock, but since I have read about so many concerns with fires in RVs, I was wondering if it would be worthwhile, while balancing the nuisance tripping. I will opt for a regular GFCIs. #12 wire is what was there, so replaced like with like, but just wanted to add on two more outlets up on the bed area after the GFCI in the kitchen area—saw the speed boxes but hadn’t considered they would not accept #12 wire—I will check before ordering—thanks. I was trying to find a solution to adding outlets without surface-mounting the boxes. If anyone has done so in the upper cab, I would love to see your results!

[DanAatTheCape]

my camper is wired with a gfci at the start of the series - there are 3 accessible outlets.  There are also 2 more - one for the microwave and one for  the ac source for the frig.

My gfci was popping all the time  - got a replacement at a rv dealer.   I guess you could call these speed boxes.

[WenSun]

@Maineah @DanAatTheCape

OK—After more research, I passed on the AFCI/GFCIs—thanks. I decided to replace all the #14 and the #12 wire from the breaker panel with #12–I know it’s overkill but figured I’d plan for any future growth and a new panel.  I ran #12 from the panel for the shore line and bought a new receptacle.  I ran new wire to the kitchen area and added a 20A GFCI in a new waterproof box.  From there, I ran wire to the upper cab area on both sides and there is where I am using the speed box—they come in both 15 and 20A and fit 1/2” spaces—no raised boxes.  

On the opposite side, I followed a #12  wire with an exposed 20A glass fuse connected to a #14 wire–turned out to be a pre-installed A/C line. I replaced it with #12 up to the vent cutout. It was grounded in the panel, but can I add a breaker for it in the box, given the empty spot?  

I ran new line to the outlet above the refrigerator to a 20A in a fire-rated box and a new GFCI outlet outside in a waterproof box for the refrigerator.  Not sure if the GFCI for the refrigerator is a mistake in that it could trip unbeknownst to those traveling...  

in the panel pics, I put all the lines exactly where they were initially, but would like some advice on whether I can add in that breaker on that one empty spot.  

Recommendations on panel upgrades???