aws Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 New user. First time RV owner. Purchased 1989 Dolphin Toyota RV V-6 76,000 miles in "excellent condition" for 9k in Aug. 2016 from a less than honest seller. Put additional 3k into repairs from roof leaks w/ related damage, gas tank filler hoses, rear axle air bags, belts, hoses, brakes, wheel bearings, wheel cylinders, radio, plumbing, heater, on and on. Switched to semisynthetic engine oil, full synthetic in the rear differential. Rear differential ran much cooler after switch. Engine oil has been clean through several changes, and uses less than a quart between changes if driven hard. Problem: ran rough after last 3,000 mile road trip, switched plugs, rotor, and cap. Ran compression check and range was 130-150# except #4 at 90#. Engine runs smooth, but I hear a slight miss through the exhaust possibly from exhaust valve leak? I plan to run the test again this weekend. I am borrowing a leak down tester to do a more thorough check on that cylinder. It is a new problem and doesn't seem to have changed the power available, although it is already extremely underpowered for mountain terrain. I can access that bank easily to check and change the shims on that side of the engine. Are the shims something that can be easily found? One local dealer's service writer would not let me talk to the head mechanic to see if anyone on staff was even familiar with valve work on this engine, and he was quick to dismiss me as an annoyance to his day. Another dealer at least spoke to me at length in the service department about the possibilities and costs. $95. per hour is too costly for exploratory diagnosis which, with a valve job, timing belt, and pump put the cost over the range of a newly rebuilt engine with 3year 100k warranty. I have a Chilton's manual that covers all the work required, but it beyond my skillset to take on more than a valve check and shim on the one bank. Any advice up to and including certified shops in my area (southern Illinois) that are qualified and recommended for this kind of work would be appreciated. There is no rust, all other systems are good, and it is too nice to send to the crusher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 2 hours ago, aws said: New user. First time RV owner. Purchased 1989 Dolphin Toyota RV V-6 76,000 miles in "excellent condition" for 9k in Aug. 2016 from a less than honest seller. Put additional 3k into repairs from roof leaks w/ related damage, gas tank filler hoses, rear axle air bags, belts, hoses, brakes, wheel bearings, wheel cylinders, radio, plumbing, heater, on and on. Switched to semisynthetic engine oil, full synthetic in the rear differential. Rear differential ran much cooler after switch. Engine oil has been clean through several changes, and uses less than a quart between changes if driven hard. Problem: ran rough after last 3,000 mile road trip, switched plugs, rotor, and cap. Ran compression check and range was 130-150# except #4 at 90#. Engine runs smooth, but I hear a slight miss through the exhaust possibly from exhaust valve leak? I plan to run the test again this weekend. I am borrowing a leak down tester to do a more thorough check on that cylinder. It is a new problem and doesn't seem to have changed the power available, although it is already extremely underpowered for mountain terrain. I can access that bank easily to check and change the shims on that side of the engine. Are the shims something that can be easily found? One local dealer's service writer would not let me talk to the head mechanic to see if anyone on staff was even familiar with valve work on this engine, and he was quick to dismiss me as an annoyance to his day. Another dealer at least spoke to me at length in the service department about the possibilities and costs. $95. per hour is too costly for exploratory diagnosis which, with a valve job, timing belt, and pump put the cost over the range of a newly rebuilt engine with 3year 100k warranty. I have a Chilton's manual that covers all the work required, but it beyond my skillset to take on more than a valve check and shim on the one bank. Any advice up to and including certified shops in my area (southern Illinois) that are qualified and recommended for this kind of work would be appreciated. There is no rust, all other systems are good, and it is too nice to send to the crusher. Did you check your VIN to see if the head gasket has been changed under the special service bulletin? Other members here can give you the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Generally, 1989s were covered by an SPA that has expired. VINs up to 0014059. Shims for the valves are unlikely to be stocked by your local dealer, so count on a bit of a delay while they're ordered for you after you determine the thicknesses you need. IIRC, there are a couple of dozen different thicknesses, so hardly surprising they don't keep the full range on the shelf gathering dust. Toyota V6 Head Gasket SPECIAL SERVICE CAMPAIGN V06.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aws Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 I checked the VIN numbers, and they are not in the recall. Has anyone tried surface grinding the existing shims to the tolerance needed since there are only six total exhaust valves? I could have the bottoms ground in case the tops are polished to ride the cam lobes smoothly. The intake valves will be checked, but I am getting the message that it is usually only the exhaust that need shim replacements. The local college may have a machine shop with students needing the experience on the surface grinder. How much are the average shims? The kit is out of my budget range, and I would not need all those shims. Thanks for the helpful info so far. AWS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 I've got it in mind that the shims are <$10 each. And it's unlikely that you'd need mere than a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 $4.50 each? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 The shims ware on the top they can be flipped. Measure all of your shims write down their sizes and the clearance they can be used elsewhere in a lot of cases just buying shims without knowing what thickness you will need can get expensive. The exhaust valves are the ones that take it on the chin, when the clearance tightens up it is from valve stretch they actually get longer unlike the intakes that are cooled from incoming air and fuel the exhaust valves are subject to lot of heat but that does not mean they don't need to be adjusted if nothing else checked. Surface grinding a shim would be major undertaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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