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1984 Damon Escaper isolator


Rigby

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I bought a 1984 Damon Escaper my first RV . I believe the isolator isn't working properly but I don't know. I need to know if there's a secondary power switch or if when I take the keys out it why disconnects both batteries.I can't have the lights on in the camper if I don't have the car set to ACC . I know I need to buy a voltage meter but I'm just trying to check if I'm missing where the switches or if the isolator could be broken mind you if I take out the house battery all the lights in the camper turn off either way. Also I just bought both the batteries brand new

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I just found my old multimeter. But I do have a question if I don't have the "house" battery installed none of the lights in my "house" turn on. Could that be the isolator or could it be I have bad wiring

 

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No house battery, no house lights. UNLESS you are plugged into 110v ac and then the converter will run all the 12v stuff in the house.

My 86 Escaper didn't have a transfer switch. My 76 Mobile Traveler had one.

 

Edited by WME
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With your key out of the truck ignition you should still have house lights.

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Start with any circuit breakers connected to the battery. Also most converters have automatic transfer relay with age the contacts may be corroded. The old contacts on thee exposed relays can be cleaned, some have a cover and you may or may not be able to remove it.

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Currently I'm going to be cleaning up every connection I'm getting a new one just in case cuz the other one looks really bad at this point so more than a little rust on it. I'm going to check all the wires I'm going to lift her up check all the wires underneath make sure nothing's corroded

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Ok the isolator is there to protect the truck battery from being drained by the coach once the key is off, when the key is on the plan is to charge the coach battery with the running truck. The coach lights should light as long as your coach battery is charged with the key off there should be no connection to the truck battery. Now if you are going to mess with rusty circuit breakers go buy new ones first it is all most a given they will break when you try to remove the nuts they are not expensive by new stakeon's for the wires too cause they will be stuck under the nuts . There are fuses for the coach lights usually inside the converter/charger panel. Even with no truck battery the coach lights should work so what you need to know is the coach battery being charged when the truck is running?

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I don't think it is I was using a lawn mower battery before I got the new deep cycle(just something to test the system) and I had are new dash can connected to that and I believe the battery drained and wasn't working properly

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The original coach lights draw a LOT of current it would flatten a lawn mower battery pretty quick they are short duration starting batteries. Everything being right with the key on you probably would have lights in the coach even if the coach battery is pretty dead but they would go out as soon as the key was off. Fire up that voltmeter and check the coach battery first with the key off then with the truck running what you should see is rising voltage at the battery posts if so then the isolator and charging system are working properly. 

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Here is a very basic tutorial on RV electric lights.  When the engine is running, the isolator connects the alternator to the truck battery and the coach battery.  When the truck is not running, the isolator disconnects the coach battery from the engine circuit so that the truck battery does not get drained by the RV (coach) lights and other power suckers in the RV.  

The power converter plugs into "shore" power.  This is the extension cord that you plug into an outlet (120 volt)  This will charge your coach battery and power your RV electrical needs while plugged in.  

If your coach battery is dead or discharged, it can't power anything.  

PM me and and I can give you my phone number so that we can talk about how to trouble shoot your system without typing for an hour with every question.

Bob

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The old converter/chargers were poor chargers they would take forever to recharge a flat battery as their charge rate was in the 3 amp range. The converter part had all kinds of current great for running lights fan etc. In side of the old converter was a transfer switch that disconnected the the coach battery when the rig was plugged in, they did stick in the charge mode and you would have no lights once it was unplugged but would when plugged in. This is a possibility that may explain your no light issue even with a fully charged battery or running off the truck battery. 

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Thank you guys.im coming in to this a little  blind with the whole camper thing . (I've built full race cars in the past so I have a history with cars) . I have monday off and I'll be tearing in to my rig aprt and just having some idea of what it could be helps in leaps and bounds . Thank you Bob c I will pm you when I get a chance 

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