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Hi all. started having an issue where i was driving on the highway and the shifter became very hard to get in gear and eventually stopped going into gear. the pedal became very spongy.

made it to a parts store in payson AZ thankfully. ( 30 miles in 3rd gear sucks )

need some help diagnosing.

if i put the truck in gear and try to start it with the clutch pressed it acts as if the clutch is not pressed. ( bucks ) 

What ive tried:

i disconnected the clutch master cylender and plugged it up. pedal was hard so mc seems to be working. 

also the clutch fork doesnt seem to move all that much when pressing the pedal. i have video of this but cant seem to get it to post.

Any ideas or suggestions? 

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What year rig and what trans does it have?

some have a hydraulic clutch cylinder that sits near the starter motor. This is what moves the clutch fork, not the master cylinder. You could have a leak,air in the line or a bad cylinder. 

If you’re at auto zone purchase the Toyota Haynes manual for your year truck. It should give you step by step instructions along with a troubleshooting guide. A good thing to carry in your rig. 

Edited by fred heath
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Two parts in a hydraulic clutch system, master and slave cylinders. The master cylinder is by the brake master cylinder. The slave is mounted down on the bell housing it is the one that actually moves the clutch fork and throw out bearing

Master cylinders $15 rebuilt, $35 new.  Slave cylinder is about the same. Both common parts and should be in stock at most auto parts.

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so i am currently replacing the slave and master cylender. im noticing that the clutch fork has almost no play at all. i cant move it with my hand. this isnt normal right? anyone encounter this? 

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No play or just a little play?   A tiny amount is good. The clutch spring has 3-400 hundred lbs of clamping pressure, you ain't moving it by hand:P

The adjustments are at the pedal push rod, pedal push rod free play between the pedal and master cylinder is .04 and .2" The total system free play ..2-.5" You SHOULDN'T need to adjust these if only changing the cylinders.

After replacing both cylinders you will need to bleed the air out. Takes 2 people. You MIGHT be able to do a gravity bleed. Fill up the master and open the bleeder valve on the slave and WAIT untill fluid runs out. Let it drain until the fluid is clear. This will work sometimes, if it doesn't then its 2 people time.

 

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